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Transmission fluid and filter change on a Disco 1
In the near future, I want to change the transmission fluid and filter in my 1999 sd. The truck runs fine in gears 2 and up but has a slight whine and early shift in first gear. I think a transmission fluid and filter change couldn't hurt the situation.
1) Is there a detailed link to how to perform this? The RAVE manual is a bit unclear to me on this subject- though it's been great for everything else. 2) What tools will I need? 3) What unexpected things should I look out for while performing this? |
Originally Posted by luckyd77
(Post 310164)
I think a transmission fluid and filter change couldn't hurt the situation.
I disagree... What does your transmission fluid look like, bright red or redish brown? I have spoken with quiet a few techs who DO NOT reccomend servicing a transmission on a 100K LR you do not know the history on. Reason being transmission fluid is high in detergants and if you fill your transmission with new fluid it's going to get a deep cleaning. There have been cases where after people have changed filter and fluid their trucks would not shift or drive. Here's what I think. If you're not scared to changed the transmission out if it NEEDS to be changed out then go a head flush it and change the filter. IF you have NO idea how to change a transmission then leave it how it is. I would also challenge you to investigate the wine a little bit more before assuming it's the trans.. There are a lot of other bearings and gears your could be hearing. If you decide to do it anyway, do a search you will find the transmission service instructions. |
Well, all that can be true. But also, if you had never changed the oil in the engine, would you just keep driving and hope it lasts? One reason people have problems is that they only change part of the fluid, leaving the quantity in the torque converter to continue to circulate with the new fluid. Some others just drain and re-fill, which does a great job of clogging up the filter. See https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-filter-34270/ for what to expect. And if going that route, plan on changing, then in a day or two drain and re-fill (increase percentage of new fluid present), then in another few days drain and refill again. That way you have diluted the remaining fluid considerably.
IMHO you can count on tranny problems in the future if you don't change. You may delay them if you do change. But you may also bring them on faster. The idea that tranny will last forever with no fluid change is written in manuals by people who own stock in repair shops. If fluid is red, good. If reddish brown, the clutch dust is suspended in the fluid and you are looking at a rebuild soon. If brown, and smells like burnt coffee pot, looking at rebuild now. |
The fluid is red on the dip stick.
The issue I'm trying to short is this: Once the truck is warm, I'll hear a rather low volume whir/whine when accelerating from a full stop and the truck seems to shift(I think it's a shift, could be a stumble) early. It's not affecting the performance but it doesn't allow me to pull off as fast as i'd like. |
Originally Posted by luckyd77
(Post 310196)
The fluid is red on the dip stick.
The issue I'm trying to short is this: Once the truck is warm, I'll hear a rather low volume whir/whine when accelerating from a full stop and the truck seems to shift(I think it's a shift, could be a stumble) early. It's not affecting the performance but it doesn't allow me to pull off as fast as i'd like. |
Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
(Post 310192)
Well, all that can be true. But also, if you had never changed the oil in the engine, would you just keep driving and hope it lasts? One reason people have problems is that they only change part of the fluid, leaving the quantity in the torque converter to continue to circulate with the new fluid. Some others just drain and re-fill, which does a great job of clogging up the filter. See https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-filter-34270/ for what to expect. And if going that route, plan on changing, then in a day or two drain and re-fill (increase percentage of new fluid present), then in another few days drain and refill again. That way you have diluted the remaining fluid considerably.
IMHO you can count on tranny problems in the future if you don't change. You may delay them if you do change. But you may also bring them on faster. The idea that tranny will last forever with no fluid change is written in manuals by people who own stock in repair shops. If fluid is red, good. If reddish brown, the clutch dust is suspended in the fluid and you are looking at a rebuild soon. If brown, and smells like burnt coffee pot, looking at rebuild now. |
Could you explain a little more about the kickdown cable? I'm a newbie, but having a blast working on this thing...
Side note. Took her out to do some illegal offroading with my friend in his BJ40. It was my first time ever wheeling and my truck is totally stock with shot springs. I ended up having to pull his LandCruiser with 33" MT's out the mud with my stock Disco. Never got stuck once. He looks at my truck alot differently now. CDL FTW!!! |
Originally Posted by luckyd77
(Post 310201)
Took her out to do some illegal offroading
People like you are the reason all of the legal/public offroading spots are becoming private illegal spots. I hope you get busted next time. |
re: doesn't allow me to pull off as fast as i'd like.
Well, 4500 pounds, 180 hp; I don't think it will ever accomplish that.... but with proper tuning you can expect 0-60 in say 3.2 gallons. |
My thoughts are, if it needs a fluid change, do it. If the tranny fails because of the additives, it was going to fail anyway.
As far as illegal offroading, please don't. That is the reason all our trails and roads now have gates on them. |
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