Troubled Engine.
#1
08-23-2011, 05:05 PM
Troubled Engine.
So now my 99D1 wants to stall whenever I take my foot off the pedal. Usually only when it is hot out. In the mornings it seems ok. This engine runs differently everytime I start it. Either wants to stall out or has higher than normal RPM's. Havn't changed out the rod bearings yet, waiting for the new timing chain to arrive. I'm at a loss with this engine. Just when I fix one thing a new condition arrises. The only sensors I have not changed yet are the knock sensors and fuel rail temp sensor. Only about 10 more months to go and I'm dropping this thing to the first offer.
#2
08-23-2011, 09:48 PM
Recovery Vehicle
#3
08-24-2011, 04:59 AM
But I wonder from where? I removed the Cruise control assembly because it didn't work anymore and did not care to use it. When I remove any vacume line the engine does seem to jump even higher in RPM's. This engine is crazy. Never had this much trouble with a vehicle before. What sensors cause stalling at higher temperatures? I should start there. This engine has so many new parts on it. Wish I still had my Bronco.
#4
08-24-2011, 05:15 AM
Super Moderator
#5
08-24-2011, 07:26 AM
Fuel return line I have not checked yet. The line just travels along the passenger side right? I'll have to look at it. I plan on changing all the vacume lines when I pull the engine to do the rod bearings and timeing.But for now, what about that fuel rail temp sensor? Would that have anything to do with running like !@#$# when hot? This morning she ran ok. The RPM's were idling at 1000-1100 when in park. She stumbled a bit at stops but did not stall. In the afternoons when it is HOT, HOT, HOT in Oklahoma, I have to ride with one foot on the brake and always give it gas to stay running. As soon as I come to a stop or slow down and my foot is off the pedal, the RPM's drop suddenly and she dies. Sometimes it is hard to restart.
#6
08-24-2011, 08:08 AM
Super Moderator
Well perhaps, but maybe also the coolant temp sensor. It drives the ECM, there is a second one that drives the guage. Next door to each other on the engine, the sensor is the two wire one. Both the coolant and the fuel temp sensor report to the ECM, which decides on injector timing, etc.
From the RAVE:
From the RAVE:
Engine coolant temperature sensor
The engine coolant temperature sensor is located in
the front of the thermostat housing. The sensor
provides engine coolant information to the ECM. The
ECM increases the injector opening time when cold to
provide improved driveability, and reduces the
opening time as the engine reaches normal operating
temperature.
the front of the thermostat housing. The sensor
provides engine coolant information to the ECM. The
ECM increases the injector opening time when cold to
provide improved driveability, and reduces the
opening time as the engine reaches normal operating
temperature.
Engine fuel temperature sensor
The engine fuel temperature sensor is located in the
rail on the RH side of the ram housing. The sensor
sends fuel temperature data to the ECM, the ECM on
receiving the data will adjust the injector open time
accordingly to produce good hot starting in high
ambient temperatures.
rail on the RH side of the ram housing. The sensor
sends fuel temperature data to the ECM, the ECM on
receiving the data will adjust the injector open time
accordingly to produce good hot starting in high
ambient temperatures.
Idle air control valve
The idle air control valve is screwed into a housing
attached to the rear of the plenum chamber, between
the plenum chamber and bulkhead. The idle air
control valve has two windings which enable the
motor to be energised in both directions thus opening
or closing the air valve as required by the ECM.
The idle air control valve will open and allow extra air
into the plenum chamber to maintain engine idle
speed when the engine is under increased (Electrical
and Mechanical) loads.
The idle air control valve will control engine idle speed
when the vehicle is stationary.
Seems like that coolant temp sensor on the 5.8 liter engines in Broncos and pickups would go off line and the idle would keep on climbing, poor truck thought it was -40 degrees outside.
What would be real fun to chase down would be a wiring problem associated with one of these sensors that is heat dependent, like dirty cable connector, etc.
attached to the rear of the plenum chamber, between
the plenum chamber and bulkhead. The idle air
control valve has two windings which enable the
motor to be energised in both directions thus opening
or closing the air valve as required by the ECM.
The idle air control valve will open and allow extra air
into the plenum chamber to maintain engine idle
speed when the engine is under increased (Electrical
and Mechanical) loads.
The idle air control valve will control engine idle speed
when the vehicle is stationary.
Seems like that coolant temp sensor on the 5.8 liter engines in Broncos and pickups would go off line and the idle would keep on climbing, poor truck thought it was -40 degrees outside.
What would be real fun to chase down would be a wiring problem associated with one of these sensors that is heat dependent, like dirty cable connector, etc.
#8
08-24-2011, 09:13 AM
The vacume diagram is under the hood. I never found one in Rave either. I changed my engine coolant temp sensor with no improvement a while ago. I was reading other forums about the fuel temp sensor. Other people that experienced a fuel temp sensor fault experienced almost the same effects. Does anyone have a used fuel temp sensor for sale? I want to try it.
#9
08-24-2011, 05:31 PM
So I went out at lunch and disconnected the fuel temp sensor and noticed the gound wire was kinked in a few places near the connector. I straightened the kinks and fiddled with the connector a bit. This afternoon on my way home, my engine started up no stutter and drove all the way home with no stalls. I didn't even have to right the gas pedal and brake. Wonder if I accidentally fixxed something.
#10
08-24-2011, 08:36 PM
Super Moderator
Since it is not high speed data, I don't think the kinks would make much difference (they sure can on data cables) - but the connector is certainly an idea. The extra heat under the hood could cause problems with expansion, etc. So if the connector lost the original "tension", it becomes almost like a cold solder joint.
With you doing a little scrubbing, poking, cleaning, etc. that could have improved.
And you might have hit on a reason that the reman alternators drop like flies... the fan exhaust is practically ducted into them, and if they utilize simple plug in or slip connectors, these could be "spread' by the continual blast of hot air. But I bet they also skimp on the parts quality, and the reman electronics can't take the heat.
I checked my scanner tonight to see if fuel temp was a reported parameter for live data, did not see it, at least on mine.
With you doing a little scrubbing, poking, cleaning, etc. that could have improved.
And you might have hit on a reason that the reman alternators drop like flies... the fan exhaust is practically ducted into them, and if they utilize simple plug in or slip connectors, these could be "spread' by the continual blast of hot air. But I bet they also skimp on the parts quality, and the reman electronics can't take the heat.
I checked my scanner tonight to see if fuel temp was a reported parameter for live data, did not see it, at least on mine.
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