water leaking from reservoir's cap
#11
05-25-2014, 12:49 PM
As this behavior is BAD for an aluminum engine do not run the engine anymore.... you have no idea how much fun you can drop on your motor by repeatedly overheating it, no idea. Perform all tests that you can with a stone cold motor from here on out. No more starting it until you know why it's overheating. Best advice I have.
I don't know what your experience level is but I'll assume it's not equal to mine because your asking a simple question that an experienced motor head would not. So with that in mind I'll throw you a large bone.......
As you have 140k on it I would go ahead and do a head gasket replacement (and check the liner to deck height) along with update replacements to insure it's sound and will last as long as you want to remain owning it. If your motor was installed with steel head gaskets replace with the same otherwise you will drop compression ratio with a tall composite even after shaving the heads. (3.9's already have a larger cc'd combustion chamber and the heads are spec'd to shave two times without touching valve to piston dome.)
I'll tell you from experience, diving into your motor at this stage of the game will give you all the information you need to keep maintaining it properly. This is my advice and I have 6 years of saving Rover streamlined cinder blocks to prove it.
If you want a good read on what not to do find Savannah Buzz's thread on head gaskets replacement. I'm not picking on SB as he's suggested the same to other members. It was painful for me as head gasket replacement is fairly simple to do (within a weekend) if planned properly.
Good luck and I'll be following along......
I don't know what your experience level is but I'll assume it's not equal to mine because your asking a simple question that an experienced motor head would not. So with that in mind I'll throw you a large bone.......
As you have 140k on it I would go ahead and do a head gasket replacement (and check the liner to deck height) along with update replacements to insure it's sound and will last as long as you want to remain owning it. If your motor was installed with steel head gaskets replace with the same otherwise you will drop compression ratio with a tall composite even after shaving the heads. (3.9's already have a larger cc'd combustion chamber and the heads are spec'd to shave two times without touching valve to piston dome.)
I'll tell you from experience, diving into your motor at this stage of the game will give you all the information you need to keep maintaining it properly. This is my advice and I have 6 years of saving Rover streamlined cinder blocks to prove it.
If you want a good read on what not to do find Savannah Buzz's thread on head gaskets replacement. I'm not picking on SB as he's suggested the same to other members. It was painful for me as head gasket replacement is fairly simple to do (within a weekend) if planned properly.
Good luck and I'll be following along......
Thanks so very much for your sage advice,
I truly welcome any input you might have. Replacing the head gasket it is the way to go. This could be my project for July. I was wondering if I should look in to try to improve the cooling system by flushing and replacing the thermostat along with replacing the black tank with a newer white tank and new cap.
Also, can you please tell me how would I go about checking the liner to deck height. I am not very experience I can welcome the challenge.
I do have power tools to help me with job.
Thanks so very much to for your help!
George
#12
05-25-2014, 12:52 PM
Sorry bout that, can try a code scanner for obd1 maybe, or in fared laser thermometer on thermostat housing, coolant in reservoir, and shoot several areas on radiator
You can also feel hot rad. To see if there's cool spots
The black reservoir is bad plastic can break/ burst easy get white from newer d1
At this age probly a combination of semi clogged radiator about $200 new on ebay for nice aluminum one direct fit, new thermostat, good flush, newer resivoir and cap
You may have bad hg but these contribute heavily
If the system does not pressurise the coolant boiling temp is lowered some, may want a 180 stat too
Read above is supposed to be rad . Auto correct is pita
You can also feel hot rad. To see if there's cool spots
The black reservoir is bad plastic can break/ burst easy get white from newer d1
At this age probly a combination of semi clogged radiator about $200 new on ebay for nice aluminum one direct fit, new thermostat, good flush, newer resivoir and cap
You may have bad hg but these contribute heavily
If the system does not pressurise the coolant boiling temp is lowered some, may want a 180 stat too
Read above is supposed to be rad . Auto correct is pita
I will keep you updated with my progress today.
Take good care,
G.
#13
05-25-2014, 03:15 PM
The quick and dirty method is run a thumb nail from the open cylinder across liner to the block deck. If there is a drop in the liner to deck height it will tug nail. A machinist square on the deck with bright light behind it (will show light underneath if liner has dropped). The professional method is with a dial indicator, measure the liner then the deck.
#14
05-25-2014, 04:59 PM
I would lug the radiator into a professional shop and have them rod it out and boil it. They can give you an estimate of how long your current radiator will last more than I can as they can see it where as I cannot. I would freshen up the rest, it won't hurt it and it will probably last another 140k. Check the water pump while your at it and also the belt tensioner. The tensioners tend to eat their bearings, replace bearing or get new pulley with bearing installed. If you can move the water pump shaft by hand it's time to replace it even if it's not leaking at the seal. Stick with OE parts, I cannot emphasize this enough.
#15
05-25-2014, 05:35 PM
Baja
Depending where you live the new may be better price wise, cost me over $100 to rod mine new is $200 plus being in the northeast salt belt the fins were disintegrating, and rust got to love the salt belt
82* today and I am running 179* on ultra gauge with a known bad fan clutch so hope my results last when real heat hits
82* today and I am running 179* on ultra gauge with a known bad fan clutch so hope my results last when real heat hits
#16
05-25-2014, 07:06 PM
#18
05-25-2014, 07:40 PM
Me too, just fun. Did you see the guys 110 CT wannabe above your post at DS? Nailed it. Big bucks too.
You know what I was wondering?
What's under that tarp here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...25/#post462997
You know what I was wondering?
What's under that tarp here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...25/#post462997
#20
05-25-2014, 10:31 PM
Exactly.......!
The M37 blows away the 110 first because it's American, second because it's Military (the real deal, not just fluffy bunny stuff), and third because it's a Dodge. So what if it only goes 45 mph.
You should've driven the CT homage in the parade, that would've been a perfect finale for all the work you just did. I'd have given you my brand new fan clutch just so you wouldn't roach your motor while idling.
The M37 blows away the 110 first because it's American, second because it's Military (the real deal, not just fluffy bunny stuff), and third because it's a Dodge. So what if it only goes 45 mph.
You should've driven the CT homage in the parade, that would've been a perfect finale for all the work you just did. I'd have given you my brand new fan clutch just so you wouldn't roach your motor while idling.