Hey Slang, are you replacing the glass with diamond plate? Is that what you mean? A diamonde plate sunroof that still opens would be SUPERFLY.

Is your rear floorboard still getting hot? Mine is bare metal and it never feels hot, even in the summertime. I was thinking about that as I was riding and thinking you must have heat gain from an exhaust leak or cats maybe?

I have had a lot of good success with Muguires Paste wax and their swirl/scratch remover on a black 86.5 Porsche 928.

 

The closest thing Presta has on its site to what I use is the Ultra Buffing System. They have changed from the arbor attached pads to the ones that use a backing plate, thats the only difference I can see from what I use. Same pads and products though just a different method of attachment. Looks like Presta wants a buck fifty for the kit but if you search around you can find it cheaper from some independent suppliers. Ebay has the shop pak for $129 which looks to be the same thing and I saw a few more on the Google search for around $120.

You really need a high speed buffer to utilize something like this as most of the products are activated by heat. I use a cheapo Harbor Freight high speed buffer that cost me $29 so it's not a huge investment. I've been using mine for 7 years and it still works just fine. You could just order the products without the pads and try a random orbit but the product specific pads and the high speed buffer make a huge difference.

If you order the kit you may want to call them as ask if you need an arbor adapter for the backing plate or if it just pops on to the standard 5/8 buffer shaft. I've never used the backing plate so I'm not 100% sure how it attaches. In my experience with Presta they do usually include everything you need in the kit to mount the pads.

 

By the way if your 7" rotary is just the mini version of a typical high speed, it will work fine if you can get the backing plate to mount to it. Some of them have the same size shaft as the larger models (yes I know how wrong that sounds) so you might get lucky.

 

No Danny, not diamond plate. I have an old Jameson box that I am going to use for the sunroofs. I'd take pictures but I can't find the memory chip for my Sony....I saw your fancy Disco and then realized the pic was from 2007. Nice CDL pics too.

Floorboard cooks. But the angled up transition to the back and the back are now insulated and only get slightly warm to the touch. I'm going to do the same floor treatment to the rear and front floor one day in the future.

I love the work I did on the floor and back bumper. I'm ready to go on a rebuilt front - ghetto grill, stinger, renovated end caps, bumper cut down. She's lookin mean.

I need to do a bunch of stuff under there so I'll look into the cats and potential exhaust leak. I remember another discussion about roasting a pig down there and a couple guys having the same problem. I'm surprised your floorboard stay cool. And now a little concerned. I was thinking normal driveshaft related but I'm all up to date on my work there.

 

Brad...looks good. By the way I painted the AC condensor in the front Chevrolet Orange. A little thing you might notice if you look thru the grill. How do you apply the TR3? Which product do you use?

I'm going to try and buy a $30 high speed and some attachments and do it up. I probably won't do it again for another ten years but if it comes out nice it'll be worth it all. The roof I have to repaint - too much rust repair. No way around that.

 

For the roof if you just want a cheap black finish, you can buy dupont single stage in a rattle can. Bout 10 beans a can but it looks pretty good.

 

i think i'm going to paint the roof with the same stuff I painted the inside - KBS. It stops rust, adheres well, self levels out brush strokes. it looks really good. very shiny inside tho. i noticed my back bumper went a little flatter in the sun which may be good for my color pref. they also have aluminum and galvanized colors. a competitor (can't remember which one - POR15?) has flat black.

 

i've also sprayed flat black over the KBS (Stinger) and R'oleum Plastic paints (grill) with very good results. Don't know how it will hold up yet but looks good.

 

AS you suggest, I think I'm going to go with something like this:

PROCESS:
-WASH
-LIGHTLY SAND PROBLEM AREAS W/ 1000 GRIT WET (WHITE OLD CLEAR COAT)
-FINISH UP WITH 1500 GRIT WET
-BUFF WITH CUTTING CREME (ULTRA CUTTING CREME)
-1500 POLISH (ULTRA POLISH - CHROMA 1500)
-SWIRL REMOVER (SWIRL REMOVER)
-HAND GLAZE (AURORA HAND GLAZE)

EQUIPMENT:
-POLISHER
-PADS
-WOOL CUTTING PAD
-PRODUCTS (WASH, CUTTING CREME, POLISH. SWIRL REMOVER, GLAZE, etc.)

The Presta products are all sold in 8oz. about $9 ea. Except for the glaze...32 oz. at $21...which messes me up on shipping and overall price. AM I OK WITH 8 OZ of each??? The D2 needs the same for sure. I may choose another product but am going with your process Slooo...thanks.

I guess there's not too much more to it than lightly covering the truck with the right pads and right stuff at the right time. I better watch a youtube vid or two before I take the paint down to the aluminum.

 

Before you paint, try the TR-3 it comes in a can similar to a mineral spirit can. It says tr3 resin glaze. You put it on a rag, rub it in like a wax. Wait for it to dry, wipe off with a clean rag. If your roof is like mine it might take two coats to bring gloss back. It was $8 at my local auto parts store. I was like you wanting to paint, found this said what the heck ill give it a try, now I've changed my mind as of right now.