Can anyone else weigh in on the National brand that Anti mentioned? I'll be doing my front bearings shortly, and I see these are readily available in town. I would like to get quality bearings that I don't have to wait for on shipping, and not spend a ton of money.

FWIW
National is a division of Federal Mogul which has been around since the early 1900's. In my 20 years in the parts and auto repair industry, I have never had a problem with one of their seals.

So maybe I'm a bit retarded, but without having ever bought any of these, or had the wheels apart, I'm a little unsure about what EXACTLY to get. (sorry if I'm hijacking little here)
If I get two of the following kits, will this get me the hardware I need for one wheel?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0055&ppt=C0337

yes there are 2 of those bearing sets per wheel, but there are also some seals that should be replaced with the bearings, you can get the kits at a good price here:
http://rovahfarm.com/DiscoIAxles.htm
(look about 80% of the way down the page for the 2 types of "Hub Oil Seal/Bearing Kits")


here is a picture of 1 wheel kit with bearings and seals:
(actually I think you only need one of the black seals for ABS trucks)
https://landroverforums.com/forum/at...1&d=1296739490

and here is an expanded view of the hub, note the 2 bearings (11 and 13) the grease seal (14) and the drive member joint washer (5):

https://landroverforums.com/forum/at...1&d=1296740307

Forget the kits.
Get the bearings locally and order the RTC3511 seals and drive member gaskets (and two lock washers (#8 above) from http://www.rovahfarm.com/defenderaxlesandsuspension.htm

I'd get one extra bearing, and extra hub seal, one or two extra gaskets. It's good to have the extra on hand in case you mess one up or one is defective, since they are cheap enough.

If you're not in a hurry, you could save some money by ordering these:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...zoneAssigned=1

and
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1...rt-1-0005.html

Advance gives free shipping on order over $75.

If your front bearings need replacing odds are good your rear ones do as well, or will before long. Also your u-joints will need replacing at some point also as they are a wearing part. So between the bearings and u-joints you can get over $75 worth of parts.
Food for thought.

The TIMKEN at the very bottom of the page the ones we use? They don't have normal part numbers that I normally looked for so I just want to make sure that I can get 8 and replace the front and rear wheel bearings.

8 TIMKEN wheel bearings from
Parts Geek (VERY BOTTOM OF PAGE)
or
Auto Zone

Are these the right joint washers?
Rovah Farm
8th from the top under the black swivel ball or is it 19th from the top? But 19th is for defenders..?

If you have never done it, you may have some difficulty with the inner race. When I did my brakes, I cleaned and repacked the existing wheel bearings because they were in such good condition. I had bought the kit from Rovers North, but opted to hold onto the new bearings for future use.

That inner race (I think it is called) did not want to budge so i left it in place rather than beat it out just to turn around and re-install it again. I have been told it was acceptable to do that when repacking but when replacing the inner race should be replaced as well. RAVE refer to using a brass drift to hammer it out. I could not find such a tool anywhere.

You may want to be sure you have some way to remove the inner race. It can be pressed out if you have access to a press. Or there ar other DIY shop tricks. I am sure some of the more experienced people can advise on that aspect. It would most likely help those of us who are new to these types of procedures as I certainly was.

I use a 20" oval bearing race punch.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/objec...9300/19287.JPG

I don't think brass would last too long. After doing several hubs I have to clean up the end of even my steel one with a file.
I got mine from Matco or Snap-on 20 or 30 years ago, but google "bearing race punch" and you'll find several places that sell them.

I do use a brass punch to install the race if I'm not at home.
When I'm at home I use an old race I've ground down the OD slightly, welded a cross piece to and use my press.
Then give it a few whacks using a hammer and brass punch to make sure it's fully seated.

Yes, there's no need to remove the outer race when just cleaning and repacking the bearings. But you do want to keep track of which is the inner and which the outer bearing so they go back with the correct race.

Thanks Tom, I was certain you had the answer.