So I've been dealing with the p0130/150 gremlin.

I have power to the harness plug yet I receive no voltage signal from the front 02s according to the Ultraguage. While checking the red/black and the solid green wore on the right bank.. I see this hard wrap with bare wire sticking out, the shrink tube had fallen away. Can someone tell me what this is for and if it would explain why 2 brand new 02 sensors do not work?

 

I can't really tell what's what in the picture. Are any of the wires broken? Could they have shorted out somewhere?

 

I'll take a better picture when I get home.. might help. The image is of the 4 wires coming out of the orange 02 sensor plug heading into the harness.

I've torn all the covering off of the harness looking for a broken or shorted wire and have found nothing. I get power to the sensor, but Ultraguage tells me there is no voltage when the engine us running. Ultraguage also shows a 25.00 on the trim.

 

There shouldn't be any bare wires in the harness. The right front should have red/black, brown/pink, white/orange, and blue. The brown/pink is 12v right from the fuse box and supplies power to the heater only. If it was shorted at some point it may have melted the insulation away over time using several fuses. The white/orange is grounded by the ECU to turn on the heater. The remaining two handle the signal generated by the sensor. There would be no output unless the engine is running, the exhaust of which reacts with the sensor to create the output voltage. That said, the 12v power has no effect on the signal, other than warming up the sensor after start-up.

 

Thanks for that. I did check the fuses uner the hood for the hell of it and all are good. I'm still perplexed by that bare strand. It isn't connected to anything that I can find.

Any idea if there is another fuse I can check? Like I said I've followed the brown and the white wires and found no break in them, not even in the insulation. My next step is to just throw my last 2 02 sensors at it and see if it is just the cheap junk sensors I bought causing the issue.

 

Just so I understand, you have 12v at the orange female connector that is clipped to the bracket on the bell housing, right? That is a brown and pink wire in the harness that goes up to the engine and ties into the main harness by the coil pack. If so there are no other fuses affecting the O2 sensor operation other than the main ECU protection. I think I see red and blue in the photo, so guessing the "switch" wire for the heater is burned. That would keep the heater on all the time if it is grounded. If not, and the short has burned away, the sensor will not heat, you will not get a reading when cold, it will go to open loop and post the code. It may be the two signal wires were damaged at the point of shorting.

The wires go up to the big loom on the cowl, then over to the corner of the engine compartment, then down through the firewall and into the ECU. The total run less than six feet. The 12v wire breaks away before the firewall and gets to the fuse box through the big connector that is hooked to the cruise control bracket.

You can check continuity by pulling the ECU connector, the pins are in RAVE under the electrical library. Specifications are in the workbook under emission controls, exhaust.

OK update, I see the white black, so you have five wires in the loom?

 

Thank you very much for that, I did look to see where they would go in, looks like pin 13 and 19 for the front sensors. I will have to ohm them when I get home, or at least before I out the right bank head back on.

 

Hi, i dont want to turn your topic into a mess but i have a question and cant find a specific topic about it!
Would you be able to explain this picture to me?
i was having the CEL flashing and so many codes on it, I cleared them, played with the spark plug wires, cleaned the maf and started the engine again....now non of the o2 related errors show up(just 1 code left which is cyl6 misfiring) and this is what they look like on Torque.
Thank you in advance!

 

I cannot explain the graphs, but I can tell you that a MAF can cause many codes to pop.

 

I unplugged the maf just to see what will happen, and it throws maf errors right away, those codes go away once i plug the maf cable back. So i guess the maf is good?
These are the codes i have