Thought I'd post pics after tackling my brakes and rotors on my DII. (Original post/experience here - https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...t-round-52126/)

First thing's first; Got my jackstand and jack. Lifted it enough, but left the tire on the ground and loosened the lug nuts. Didn't have any problems as some have reported. Came off with a kick and some weight.



Hand tightened back up and lifted it up and supported on jackstand (with wheel chucks in place - I'm paranoid.) Removed nuts (now loosened) and took off the wheel/tire. Those are some big-*** nuts!


Now, on to the tools. I've learned from this that the most important step to any project is to make sure you have appropriate, quality tools for the job.
In this picture you'll see (from left to right):

• Craftsmen 10-piece Bolt Out kit (saved my life after having rounded one of the banjo bolts on the rear caliper)
• C-clamp (bought this one at Autozone with a quick release) to push back the caliper piston(s)
• Hammer (I used a 24 oz. Ball Pein hammer from Advance Auto - good luck with anything lighter)
• Craftsmen impact driver with #4 Philips bit
• A 12mm standard (i.e., 6-point) short socket to remove the front and rear calipers' banjo bolts
• A 13mm 12-point short socket to remove the rear calipers' housing bolts (pictured here on my 3/8" drive ratchet)
• A 13mm 12-point long socket (long in order to avoid using a short extension and get better clearance to use the breaker) to loosen the rear calipers' housing bolts (pictured here on my 1/2" drive breaker bar)
• A 19mm 12-point long socket to remove the front calipers' housing bolts (again, long socket here because the lower bolt is somewhat hidden and this gives you clearance without having to use a short extension)

A closeup look at the Bolt Out kit (this one is 3/8" drive and is impact grade, so it wouldn't get damaged when used with an impact driver if you see fit or hammer away at it to put the socket on)


Do not use those "home" cheapo kits. This is what happens:



The front has the brake line and abs sensor wire clamped near the bottom of the suspension spring. Just remove the bolt and the clamp to give you some room and especially avoid damaging the abs sensor wire. Then proceed to remove one of the banjo bolts to swing open the calipers and remove the brake pads. (This pic was taken after the rotors and new pads were put in, but I snapped it for reference.)


Some people remove the pads last, but I did it first because it made it easier to remove the caliper without anything in them. Besides, as you'll see later, sometimes the rotors are so worn down, the pads are somewhat "grooved" in there.

Anyway, now you can loosen and remove the caliper's top housing bolt (for the front it's a 19mm 12-point / for the rear it's a 13mm 12-point.) Using a breaker bar, to at least loosen it, will save you from cursing. Here you can see the abs sensor wire's bracket; Remove the wire from it first or, as you can see, it's so tight that you can risk damaging the wire.


After removing the caliper, hang it with a wire or coat hanger out of the way. Again, be careful not to damage the ABS sensor wire.


In order to prevent spillage later when I press back the caliper pistons, I sucked out some of the brake fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster.


Now, let's get that rusty rotor off. Using the impact driver with the included #4 philips bit, it only took two or three hammer hits to loosen the locator screw; Then I easily removed it. I discarded it, since the new rotors each came with with one.


Once the screw is out, if you can't pull the rotor off, get ready for some hammering. I sprayed some Liquid Wrench, took a little break, then went back to hammer. Don't worry about damaging the rotor with the hammer hits. The way it worked best for me, was to first hit (pretty hard) at 12, 9, 6, and 3 "o'clock." Then once more moving incrementally around the "clock." Finally, the shield has a gap where the caliper used to be; *That's* where I hammered from behind pretty hard, till it loosened. I could then nudge and pull it out by hand very easily. Be careful when hitting from behind that you don't hit the brake line, sensor wire, or the part where the caliper housing bolt goes in. In other words, it takes some controlled, but firm, hits directly to the rotor and it will loosen. This is why a hammer that's anything less than 24oz will probably cause you to resume cursing.
Voilą! I sprayed some break cleaner here, just because I could now. Not sure if it was necessary, but why not?


These rotors were obviously *never* changed (I'm at 116K) - they're not only badly rusted, but uneven, warped, and deeply grooved (that's why I removed the pads first, otherwise that caliper was not coming off easily.)



Place the new rotor on and tighten the new locator screw that came with it (hand tighten should be fine. This thing only holds the rotor in place in case you change a tire or something. What really holds the rotor in place is the actual wheel/tire and lug nuts.) I used the impact driver.


Place the caliper back on and add the new pads. (Using the C-clamp, you'll have to press the pistons back in, in order to close the housing over the new pads. That's why I removed some fluid from the reservoir - to avoid spillage.)

Fill the brake fluid reservoir back to max (or, even better, bleed the brakes.)

Place the tires back on and repeat for the rest of the tires.

Some words of caution from my experience doing this job:

1. Do not underestimate your stupidity (speak for myself right?) After about the third wheel, I was on autopilot and forgot to remove the locator screw before hammering away at the rotor. I thought that thing would never come off! And it wouldn't have, because... uh... I hadn't removed the locator screw. Duh.
   
2. Righty-tighty/Lefty-loosey is reversed when working with bolts that are facing you. In other words, make sure you don't spend all your energy further tightening a bolt that you intended to loosen. Yup - did that, too.
   
3. Finally, I did the front ones first. Because I didn't have time to finish all four (rookie that I am,) but at least that way I had better breaking power (since most of the stopping power comes from the front.)
   
4. Take your time. I know some pros say they take only 10 minutes or so per wheel, but what's the rush? That speed came with experience. I can do it faster and with less pain now, but I'm glad I experienced some challenges along the way, because I could now be prepared for those and pass along some tips as well.

The kit I used was the non-OEM one from AB. It cost me about $230. Some tools I already had, but the ones I had to buy, *maybe* cost me a total of $100 (breaker bar, Bolt-Out kit, 12-point sockets.) All told, I spent some two hours (don't laugh) and about $350 tops! That beats the $800-1000+ quotes I received.

That's it! Gonna go trigger some ABS action.

-Anthony

 

good write up and well done on the job. Personally I if i am removing both the pads and the rotors then i just use a small bladed screw driver to move the pads back a bit then a larger bladed one until pistons are all the way in and then remove both banjo bolts as there is less weight hanging when removing the caliper. Also I liberaly coat the back of the pads and sliders with cooper grease to stop break squweal.
As for the time then dont sweat it, take your time and get it done right the first time and make sure that you chock the vehicle and apply the e break before jacking

 

The only thing I did differently was loosen the bleed screw on the caliper when compressing it to fit the new pads. Otherwise, you push fluid back through the abs modulator which I have read can cause problems. Then just do a quick bleed and you don't have to worry about overflowing the reservoir. Some may disagree, but I figure better safe than sorry.

 

Thanks for that! 'Had forgotten about the grease! Next time. No squealing though... at least not yet. And I drove these babies down to the tip of Jersey and back last week/weekend (344 miles roundtrip way.) Got lucky I guess.

Yeah, always use the chocks. But thanks for the screwdriver tip! I didn't know these pistons were hollow with no top - made it hell, because the c-clamp kept falling off.

Next time, I'll be using those Akebonos. Tight budget this time. What rotors are those?

By the way, the back of the pads I used had a nice, cushioned rubber padding on them. Would you still grease it or would those rubber "mats" (if you will) provide the same function?

 

Cool tip. Thanks!

 

would still use cooper rease as its an anti sieze compound as well.

Must admit I dont like the idea of cracking the bleed nipple as its asking for more trouble than I want to deal with

 

Nice job.

 

it looks good but you really do have to invest in a decent socket set

also after having all that trouble with the bleeder screw why didnt you flush all the old brake fluid out while you were there

 

Nice write up. I recently did my pads and rotors, took about 30-40 mins per wheel also.
One thing I didn't do, was install a new set screw... I didn't see the purpose, if the wheel is holding the rotor on. Less to mess with next time.

 

hahaha! Yeah, really... lesson learned.
Working from home and having 3 kids forces me to do these projects in stages; Bleeding will be done this weekend. The good thing, I can squeeze under there without needing to jack up the truck.


I was going to leave the locator screw out, but then had one of those Hollywood movie daydreams where I saw my wife getting a flat and some idiot helping her change the tire freaking out because the rotor came off. I then decided it was not worth it over one little screw. I can easily take it off.

-Anthony