2000 Disco 2 burning oil!
I have a 2000 d2 with 186000 miles, I recently had my head gasket replaced along with valley pan, intake plenum, and rocker cover gaskets as it was leaking oil everywhere. I also had a burnt valve on cylinder 8 with a constant misfire. That is all fixed now and truck has been over 2000 miles and is running excellent, but is now burning ALOT of oil. A lot of blue smoke out of tailpipe on acceleration. Does this mean I now need a valve job? Where else could the oil be going? Thanks in advance for any help.
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You need to do a compression test to find out if its rings or valves.
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What do U mean it smokes a lot under acceleration? 1- Is it a constant smoke as long as pedal is kept depressed? Or is it a burst of smoke for few second and it fades-out? 2- When u say burned Valve and now fixed, what did u do, just change one valve? How were the other valves? Did u re-seat(lapped) all valves with lapping compound? How tight or loose were valve guides, and did u use new valve steam seals all around?
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What I mean is it smokes under initial acceleration but then tapers off un till I come to a stop light then smokes again when I start moving again. My mechanic checked all the valves and replaced what was needed. The vehicle ran absolute great for the last 2000 miles and then my oil started to dissapear, that's when I started noticing the blue smoke
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Service invoice
Check no compression no 4 R&R cylinder heads, replace timing chain race all hoses, radiator, water pump radiator. Injector service Replace all fuel injector screens, o rings, and o ring seats Repair heads Grind valves Clean heads and oil pan Resurface heads Pressure test heads |
When idle no smoke, as accelerate from stop starts smoking and fades away, cruising at same speed no smoke but when accelerate from crusing speed wili smoke few seconds and fade away. If this is happening I can assure u piston rings are ok otherwise U will have constant smoke even at idle and crusing speed. Oil is getting into combustion chamber from between valve guides and valve stem, either valve guides and or valve stem's or both are worn out more than normal tolerance , so if he replaced stem seal's they only held up for short time,( or if guide's and valve stem's were ok he didn't change the seals , but I doubt it, cause then it would smoke from day one.)
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"Repair heads, Grind valves, Clean heads and oil pan, Resurface heads,Pressure heads";
I am going to assume heads did not do all this work and not replace the $4.00 valve guide seals. despite what others people my think you quite easily could have blown the rings out by putting a fresh tight top end on, not uncommon when a valve job is done on a high mileage vehicle. I would do a compression test and go from their |
Originally Posted by drowssap
(Post 515655)
"my think you quite easily could have blown the rings out by putting a fresh tight top end on.
I would do a compression test and go from their |
Originally Posted by drowssap
(Post 515655)
"Repair heads, Grind valves, Clean heads and oil pan, Resurface heads,Pressure heads";
I am going to assume heads did not do all this work and not replace the $4.00 valve guide seals. despite what others people my think you quite easily could have blown the rings out by putting a fresh tight top end on, not uncommon when a valve job is done on a high mileage vehicle. I would do a compression test and go from their |
in the days of old 100k was the mark that was used as a borderline. Under 100k do a valve job over 100k just deck the heads and replace gaskets.
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