4.6 Liner Rust
#11
06-20-2018, 05:03 PM
come on buddy, enough of insult to injury
I wanted a new engine engine within my budget, I bought one for very likely too much, but it was a good bit less than rebuilding my current 4.6 (that has scored cylinder walls, metal shavings everywhere, and a destroyed front cover), and significantly less than a short block from AB, Turner, or any other name.
I asked for suggestions on what to do with this engine. I am not an expert. I got a good suggestion of OEM styled liners, and then your pointless comment.
I wanted a new engine engine within my budget, I bought one for very likely too much, but it was a good bit less than rebuilding my current 4.6 (that has scored cylinder walls, metal shavings everywhere, and a destroyed front cover), and significantly less than a short block from AB, Turner, or any other name.
I asked for suggestions on what to do with this engine. I am not an expert. I got a good suggestion of OEM styled liners, and then your pointless comment.
Send the block to Q&E in Anaheim, CA with your pistons numbered(that way they will bore match each top hat sleeve to each pistons). Vance is the guy there. He will try and sell you ARP head studs, but buy them from Summit or Lucky8. Also have them do your freeze plugs for $60 more. If the motor is from P38, it will be a "red" quality block, which is the best to start out with.
Good luck.
#12
06-21-2018, 05:28 PM
Pro Wrench
#13
06-21-2018, 06:19 PM
Recovery Vehicle
You can swap out liners from your old blown motor to your new rusted 3k motor?
For sure you can hone your cylinder liners. Those liners rust *fast* if not kept coated in oil, not that it's a big deal. You can adjust your piston ring size if you are worried about the honing going too far, but that might not be necessary.
I've only rebuilt one 4.6 motor, but my experience was that pulling the motor was the biggest hassle. The actual rebuilding phase was pleasant.
Check the block for flatness after the heads are off. Pressure test the block for cracks.
Deck the heads. Replace the valve stems. Check for valve leaks by spraying carb cleaner into the intake and exhaust ports of the heads and lap any valves that leak through.
Replace the bearings. Replace the timing chain and oil pump. Use new lifters and a performance cam.
I prefer the ARP studs to the factory stretch head bolts, and I like the all-metal Cometic gaskets over the cheaper silicon+metal composite head gaskets.
For sure you can hone your cylinder liners. Those liners rust *fast* if not kept coated in oil, not that it's a big deal. You can adjust your piston ring size if you are worried about the honing going too far, but that might not be necessary.
I've only rebuilt one 4.6 motor, but my experience was that pulling the motor was the biggest hassle. The actual rebuilding phase was pleasant.
Check the block for flatness after the heads are off. Pressure test the block for cracks.
Deck the heads. Replace the valve stems. Check for valve leaks by spraying carb cleaner into the intake and exhaust ports of the heads and lap any valves that leak through.
Replace the bearings. Replace the timing chain and oil pump. Use new lifters and a performance cam.
I prefer the ARP studs to the factory stretch head bolts, and I like the all-metal Cometic gaskets over the cheaper silicon+metal composite head gaskets.
#14
06-22-2018, 09:13 AM
#15
06-22-2018, 11:28 PM
You can swap out liners from your old blown motor to your new rusted 3k motor?
For sure you can hone your cylinder liners. Those liners rust *fast* if not kept coated in oil, not that it's a big deal. You can adjust your piston ring size if you are worried about the honing going too far, but that might not be necessary.
For sure you can hone your cylinder liners. Those liners rust *fast* if not kept coated in oil, not that it's a big deal. You can adjust your piston ring size if you are worried about the honing going too far, but that might not be necessary.
I don’t have budget for $1500 top hat liners
I will rebuild the engine as I have time and money, I’ll hone the cylinder just to spec
it is in fact a red marked P38 engine
I have too many financial issues outside of the project, new house new truck new everything it seems.
Ill collect parts and update the thread as it moves along.
The following users liked this post:
No Doubt (06-23-2018)
#16
10-16-2018, 02:37 PM
Alright, a lot has happened since this post. I sold my old house and so finances are back to normal-ish. My new RR is paid off, and so are a few of my other non-LR vehicles.
I decided to build a completely new engine myself for fun, I have a few friends that have rebuilt engines in the past, just not a RV8.
I bought a new GEMs P38 block, it was hot tanked, deck machined, and honed. I paid around $300 after shipping. I bought a bunch of new parts and am still slowly ordering stuff from LK8, Rockauto, and anywhere else I can source OE parts inexpensively.
Now, my question would be: The new rod bearings look "unfinished", do they have to be machined to the crank like the new cam bearings? I've been getting mixed answers on this. Some say put them in, and some say get them machined.
I decided to build a completely new engine myself for fun, I have a few friends that have rebuilt engines in the past, just not a RV8.
I bought a new GEMs P38 block, it was hot tanked, deck machined, and honed. I paid around $300 after shipping. I bought a bunch of new parts and am still slowly ordering stuff from LK8, Rockauto, and anywhere else I can source OE parts inexpensively.
Now, my question would be: The new rod bearings look "unfinished", do they have to be machined to the crank like the new cam bearings? I've been getting mixed answers on this. Some say put them in, and some say get them machined.
#17
02-18-2019, 11:18 PM
End of the thread.
The new engine was built for all in less than $1,500. New bearings, new lifters, cam, etc. Got a few great deals on parts from eBay. Had an engine shop install cam bearings, and the owner of Safari Gard helped a great deal along the way. Casey has a whole wealth of knowledge in the Rover V8 where I know only modern BMW/Jag DOHC engines.
Engine will be popped into the 2004 any time now, and I'll probably sell it right away to cut the massive loss that I've taken with it. I feel bad for the brand new tires, brakes, drive shaft, and all of the maintenance that was put into it that just sat for the past 2 years.
The new engine was built for all in less than $1,500. New bearings, new lifters, cam, etc. Got a few great deals on parts from eBay. Had an engine shop install cam bearings, and the owner of Safari Gard helped a great deal along the way. Casey has a whole wealth of knowledge in the Rover V8 where I know only modern BMW/Jag DOHC engines.
Engine will be popped into the 2004 any time now, and I'll probably sell it right away to cut the massive loss that I've taken with it. I feel bad for the brand new tires, brakes, drive shaft, and all of the maintenance that was put into it that just sat for the past 2 years.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post