90000 MILE SERVICE
 

I am gearing up to perform the 90000 mile service on my 2000 Disco II. Just wondering what you guys would suggest as far a fluids go. Should I use a synthetic gear oil? What brand of plugs, wires? I plan to sea-foam it, and flush everything. Any thoughts on LE (lubricattion engineer) products? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

RE: 90000 MILE SERVICE
 

I have used Royal Purple synthetics in the engine and differentials with good success. I also use redline synthetic transmission fluid,and Lucas power steering fluid. I have a 1991 Range Rover Classic with 140K on the clock.Many on this forum use the Magnecor wires when it's time to change them, and Bosch Platinum spark plugs.

To greatly ease the job of changing the plug wires on a Disco II, you firstremove the upper intake plenum. Get yourself a plenum gasket BEFORE you tackle this job, as 50% of the time, it seems, the gasketdelaminates when you remove it ---and then you are stuck.

regards,
Geoman www.eurotekapg.com -- Land Rover Hard Parts delivered to your door

"serving the do-it-yourself owner/enthusiast"

RE: 90000 MILE SERVICE
 

Thanks for the advice. I also need to pick up a service manual. Any suggestions?

RE: 90000 MILE SERVICE
 

You can buy a Rave CD from E-Bay that will contin the shop manual.
As for the fluids and items that need to be done on the 90,000 you might want to look up a post I placed under the Title of Disco fluids. There you will see all that may need to be done depending on your trucks past service history.
If you have any questions get back to me.
Mike

RE: 90000 MILE SERVICE
 

just know that once you use synthetics you can't go back. the molecules in petroleum oil are smaller and will leak after a synthetic has been used.

RE: 90000 MILE SERVICE
 

That is not the case, you can use one or the other or use a blend like I do. You are not locked into a sunthetic just it was used in your truck for awhile.
Mike

RE: 90000 MILE SERVICE
 

Actually, molecules in the synthetic fluids are smaller, and this is the reason that you might get more leaks when going from a petrolium based to synthetic fluids. No reason you wouldn't be able to go back.

I use Mobil 1 5000 (extended service) oil, and Mobil 1 filter. Valvoline synthetic gear oil in diffs and transfer case, and Valvoline ATF with a bottle of Lucas Transmission fix mixed in. Not a pitch for any of the products, but my truck has 95K and has been driven 25K on this stuff without anything falling appart - yet :)

I would strongly recommend a paper manual (vs CD). I bought one new on ebay and it is pretty good ( I forgot who published this one)Might be my personal preference, but I think the extra money for a printed manual is well worth it. I have a CD for my audi and I hate it. Even having a laptop in the garage is a pain - unless you don't mind your laptop getting grease all over the keyboard...
Piotr

RE: 90000 MILE SERVICE
 

Probably trying to kill a dead horse here but to address the issue of Syn vs Conventional oil up top:

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It used to be that switching from synthetic to conventional and back etc. caused havic on the various rubber seals. They had slightly different swell rates and would cause a seal to swell and then go back to normal when switched to conventional again which, in turn would cause you leaks and worn out seals. Now when I say 'used to' this was back when synthetics were first implemented in themainstreamauto industry circa 1977(?) Modern day synthetic is required to be compatible with all oilsboth synthetic and conventional. You can read the fineprint on a bottle ofMobile One which will state that it is Compliant with SAE standards and compatible withall motoroils or something to thateffect.
The reason I like to stress the oil topic is that it is STILL one of the most controversial topics in motoring today, and not all synthetics or conventionalare best for the same given engine.When I purchased the Porsche I belived the hype that you couldn't mix and could never again go back to modern conventional after switching to synthetic. The prior owner had used full synthetic but after recomendation by a porsche mechanic I switched to a syn/con mix that my porsche absolutley loved.

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-Roger
Luke AFB
Arizona

RE: 90000 MILE SERVICE
 

I am a partner in the transportation/industrial side of Royal Purple. You can go to synthetic and back with no problems at all. You might have a little blow by in the engine on the first oil change when switching only because the new oil has an anti-varnish ingredient and cleans out the deposits. The seals are also re-conditioned and may leak alittle at first, but any imperfections in the metal surfaces are polished out, creating a better seal.

I have run a bearing tester for years demonstating the performance of Royal Purple and other synthetics vs conventional oils. I will never run anything other than synthetics from now on. Of course RP does the best, but Mobile 1 and other leading synthetics are good oils too. I sell to major truck fleets and the industrial market, so I am not trying to sell anything on here at all. I can't sell to an automotive market. It is just upsetting to me when people post things that they really don't know about.

In your driveline, use synthetics. They never break down and if it is sealed well, don't get dirty. In an engine, the composition does not change. You can run it for as long as you want, but it gets dirty. With Rovers, as I have been told and seen, there is a lot of blow by, so you get fuel in the oil. Running extended drains is not the best in these engines. (Mike--I did get back my last analysis at 7K and there was too much fuel to keep running. This was before you told me not to run longer drains. Thanks for the tip)

These vehicles are expensive enough...Run the good stuff. Stick with Synthetics!!! and always remember to recycle your used oil.

OK, I am done....

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RE: 90000 MILE SERVICE
 

Couldnt Agree more