I have been driving my D1 a little bit the last couple of days just to see where I stand and it doesn't look pretty. I bought the thing so I could learn how to work on rovers, (it was cheaper than any class I could take) so I will be doing everything myself, even though I have no experience turning wrenches. Here's the deal: 97 D1 with around 180,000 miles, new alternator and HG within the last few months via PO. I am throwing a misfire on #5 code which I am hoping will clear up with a tune up. It is a little sluggish on the low end before warming up and struggles on the highway (almost pulsing). You can floor the gas and it doesn't want to pick up speed any faster than if you were barely trying. After about 20 mins it begins to overheat and the oil light begins to flicker when I stop. I haven't driven it pass this point, I stop and lift the hood and see if I can find anything out of the ordinary. The coolant bubbles and boils, shoots out of the overflow, and the top pipe is really hot and I am unable to pinch it like it should. My initial thought is HG and have thought about taking it back to the shop that did the repairs, however it is a good distance away, so I don't want to drive it there or pay $100 to tow it there and back, and plus they only charged the guy $500 bucks so I'm a little leary (sounds a little screwy). I am going to take it to my local shop which is only about a 1/2 mile from my house and let them pressure test the coolant and oil. I am also going to start the 60k service but was wondering if I should just wait and see what the pressure tests say. My other mechanic was saying something about a mainbearing but I don't understand what or where that is so any help there would be appreciated. My question is... Where should I start? Does this sound like a HG or a clogged radiator (or thermostat, though I doubt I am that lucky)? Does it sound like the oil pump or do I have to just wait until after the tests? Like I said I am new to this so any advise would be great... I don't even know what questions to ask really. Thanks and please be kind as I am trying to figure this rover thing out

 

sounds like the truck has been ignored for a long time and no maintenance was done, and we all know what happens when you don't do regular maintenance, things go downhill quick. I would start with the 60k service, check the plugs, and then go from there. at 180k miles the HG should have been done already but you may be leaking elsewhere. is the check engine light coming on when it pulsates on the highway? I wouldn't drive it any longer until you get it repaired before you do some permanent damage to the engine. Do you have the RAVE manual? $500 doesnt sounds like the mechanic knew what he was doing or didnt know what he was charging either way it doesnt sound correct. I would clean everything off under the bonnet and use some die in the coolant to find your leak.

 

Do you have the black coolant expansion tank? If so, replace it with a new one from Atlantic British. They are know for cracking and also the cap goes bad and causes pressure to build up.

Eric

 

The tank has been upgraded and I am not losing much coolant unless it explodes out of the overflow valve and I am not planning on driving it until the probs are resolved. One thing about the HG replacement is the PO said the shop cut him a good deal since he knew them but I am still leary of non LR specific people working on my rigs.

 

have you checked the plugs? are you throwing any codes?

 

I would guess that if everything was done correctly that your radiator is clogged for starters. It is getting hot and burning the oil which is causing your oil light. Pull the radiator and have it flow tested and backflushed. This will run you under $100 and give you a place to start if you are not leaking much coolant.

With 180K on the ticker, your mechanic is thinking the main bearings are worn and need to be replaced. If they are worn, they let too much oil by, and cause a drop in oil pressure. What you do depends on how long you want this thing to last. If you don't want to spend much, run some 10W40 good synthetic oil through it. Change it like you would regular oil. 4K at the most. Some people will say to run heavier oil, I wouldn't suggest any heavier than 40 weight.

This is all assuming the HG were done right. It also gives you a chance to work on it in the driveway and learn more about your truck before dropping big $$ for a mechanic. If the radiator is ok, then I would have it pressure tested. As I am sure you know, do not drive it hot.

The pulsing on the HW is most likely your VSS, but get new plugs and wires on it and then see. I put the 8MM and +4 plugs in and I love them.

 

I am throwing a code for a #5 misfire...

I guess that pulling the raditator and getting that checked first is a good idea... I have heard it is not that hard to remove. I would like this truck to last a while or at least get it up to snuff so I can trade it in for another rover or some such.I have my D2 dd which I love but in all honesty if I could get the D1 in good enough shape I might keep it and sell the D2. So I guess the consensous is to continue on with the 60k service/ tune up and see what improves, change to a thicker oil, and get the radiator checked. Is there anyway to check the main bearing? Thanks for all the help!

 

To check the bearings, you will have to drop the pan and remove the bearing caps. Then you insert a plastic indicator, retighten and spin the crank. It will crush the plastic and you measure the width. Not really a weekend warrior type of job. With that mileage, I would suggest pulling it and going for an overhaul.

 

Yeah that is out of my league... By pulling it and going for an overhaul do mean pulling the whole shebang?

 

yup. It really isn't that difficult to pull. There is a lot of room in there. But you have to pull the heads and all accessories first and just give them the bottom block. But if you want it to be your DD, I would suggest refreshing the engine. Especially if your oil light is coming on. Probably need a new oil pump, timing set and cam.

Of course, you could just drive it until it pops and dump in a used engine for the same $$... I have a D2 with a popped engine and I am debating on renewing a used 4.0 or getting a new 4.6 short block.