It's done. I completed the 3 Amigos project this weekend!

I opted not to dick around with removing the modulator side only and chose the approach to remove the entire ABS modulator and do Option B.

Bought the SVS switches assembly from Atlantic British and the SVS valve seals from Falconworks. They were $70 and $42 respectively.

Some observations:
1. No need to remove black breather hose
2. No need to reposition power steering reservoir
3. No need to remove brake hose clamps
4. No need to remove the 8 bolts (6 mm hex) attaching the modulator half of the ABS unit. They are very snug and tight and I just wasted my time removing them.

Tips:
1. The two-pole quick disconnect trailer harness you can buy from AutoZone or your local auto store works perfectly. The 16 gauge wire fits perfectly in the two holes of the SVS
2. Use a lock washer when connecting the ground wire for Option B. It will ensure good contact with ground and lessen the likelihood of becoming loose.
3. Solder your connections and use shrink tubing as recommended and you can use a large hair dryer for the shrink tubing.

Tips - Changing the SVS seals:
1. Get a 4 mm allen key wrench - there is only one place it will go. Insert it there and turn counterclockwise.
2. Using the allen wrench, lift the part you just removed out of the assembly.
3. Take a pair of long nose pliers to grasp the part that pushes the SVS switch to lift it out of the assembly.
4. Remove the C-clip and disassemble the pieces.
5. Remove the seal with a thin blunt object (I used a very small screwdriver) and replace with new seal from Falconworks.
6. Put back together and install the 2 C-clips.
7. Lubricate assembled part with brake fluid and put it back into the assembly.
8. Screw back the spacer.
9. Repeat for 2nd SVS valve.

Bleeding the brakes
1. Buy 5/16" clear vinyl tubing from the auto store - these fit snugly with the bleeder nipples at the back of the wheels. Mine were $4.99 for 3 feet of clear tubing. Buy 2 bottles of DOT-4 brake fluid.
2. First put the 8 mm box wrench around the bleeder nipple and then put on the clear tube.
3. Have your wife (or girlfriend or significant other or regular friend) pump the brake and hold it, and looses the bleeder and when you see a solid stream of brake fluid come out then tighten it. Do it a 2nd time.
4. Repeat for all 4 wheels.
5. I noticed the sequence of bleeding is different from the Rave manual compared to what's in the posts. I followed the Rave manual, which is front left, front right, rear left and rear right.
6. Always check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Do not let it go below Min.

My 3 amigos were intermittent, so it would be several weeks before I am able to report that the problem is fixed.

One more thing: If I CAN DO IT, YOU CAN DO IT!

Thanks to everyone on this forum, especially Josh!

Regards

Al
2003 D2

 

Glad it went well, Al. I'd be willing to bet you won't see another instance of the amigos after the fix.

Best,

Don

 

Don

Couldn't have done the project without your help. Thanks again

Al

 

I am getting ready to order the rebuild kit from Falconworks and I read this:

Brake bleed procedure on Disco 1 and Disco 2 CAN NOT BE DONE fully without either the Testbook factory computer or perhaps the Autologic knock-off.


Can anyone explain how I can bleed my brakes myself?

 

You know what? I think you may have something here. If you read pages 883-884 of the Rave Workshop Manual MY1999 and up, the manual describes the brake bleeding process.

There is a this WARNING: If any components upstream of brake modulator, including the modulator itself are replaced, the brake system must be bled using the procedure on TestBook/T4, to ensure that all air is expelled from the new component(s).

In my case, I opened up the ABS modulator which is equivalent to replacing the component. Also I've been noticing the travel of the brake pedal after doing the 3 Amigos fix is longer compared to before.

I called my Land Rover mechanic and he confirmed that if the manual process does not fix the problem, they do the "power bleed" process using the TestBook T4 equipment. They charge $150.00 for this service. I'll be definitely doing this, for peace of mind.

Al

 

GOD please transport me to the 1960/70's where all I had to do was crawl underneath with a bit of tube and a jar!

 

Here are the manual brake bleeding procedures from the Rave manual

brake bleed.pdf

Note the brake bleed sequence - most generic procedures (like the ones on Youtube) recommend starting with the farthest out bleeder tubes while this one starts with the front.

Also heed the warning as I mentioned a couple of posts before regarding using the Testbook/T4 when components including the ABS modulator are replaced.

FYI I also consulted with Josh Salas and here is his reply:

Hello,

You may be able to purge out the air in the system by doing the following:

1. Find an incline and activate HILL DECENT CONTROL.
2. Find a gravel road and safely hit the brakes to actuate the ABS.

That will force some of the solenoids to actuate inside the modulator and maybe purge out air inside of it.

Let me know!

 

Just came back from the mechanic. They did manual bleeding on the brakes and also used the Testbook/T4 power bleeding process to get air out of the ABS modulator.

This is the downside of doing Option B and removing the brake lines from the ABS modulator. Cost me $150 but bought me piece of mind. The pedal is now very firm and the pedal travel is very short. I'm going to Big Bear in the next couple of weeks and don't want to have spongy brakes while going up and down the mountain.

Just FYI the power bleed used up 2.5 bottles of DOT 4 brake fluid.

Cheers

Al G
2003 D2 SE7

 

Hey Josh,

Very helpful. I performed option B without removing the brake lines from the modulator. Incredibly easy and it cost me almost nothing to do.

Thanks!

 

hi all,

I am working my way though the service bulletin first, to make sure there are no ground faults or breaks etc. A couple of points I am hoping to get some experienced opinions before continuing on with this (GREAT writeup by the way!)

First off - what is the best way to access the SLABS ECU? the picture that is commonly out there has no context as to what is around it. I gather it is under the passenger side fascia, but a quick glance hasn't revealed it and I am loath to twist myself into a pretzel if I am in the wrong area.

Secondly - looks like there is a kit out there - Land Rover Discovery WABCO ABS repair kit SWO500030 | eBay

that seems to have had some success, has anyone tried out one of these? Was thinking of having something like this on standby in case this article doesn't work out.

Third - anyone gone through the service bulletins and actually had it just be a bad ground or wire? Does the code go away instantly if you fix it, or is there a cycle?

any/all responses highly appreciated!
adam in Oz