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ACE system questions

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  #1  
Old 06-04-2009, 12:57 PM
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Default ACE system questions

Hey All, I am new to this forum. I am a ranger rover owner.. My daughter just bought a 2000 Discovery II SE. We got a great deal on it and as usual, it has things to be fixed. It looks like a soccer mom's throw away. You can always tell. Anyway, After downloading all the service manuals, I have discovered that the ACE..."first time i have ever heard of this system as to why i missed it on the lookover", Seems to be disconnected. The Belt does not go around the ACE pump and the resivoir is dry. Yes the ACE light is on on the inside. All the components of the system are intact as I ran threw the hole truck. It also looks like a new belt so it must be one for a discovery without a ACE system . I am taking a guess that it must of had problems like leaking so they just disconnected it as when i drove it it didnt handle like it was going to roll over or sway much. I need to know what it entails to get the system working or to see what was the problem in the first place. I see there is the dreded test book "have too", but would like to do most of the things myself and then go have it reset . I do most of all the work on my 95 Ranger Rover 4.0 SE as to rebuilding the complete EAS system and also the ABS system, so i am fairley handy. Any input or help with what to do would be a great help.

Thanks all, Chris
 
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Old 06-04-2009, 01:03 PM
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Try turning the ACE pump by hand and see if there is anything that does not seem normal. should feel about the same as a power steering pump. I have not heard of many issues with this system as mine has had no problems at all. I did however replace the pump about 15k ago just to see if it would run any quieter. If i had to guess the ACE block had problems which i think is like 1500+ or the pump did 700+.
 
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Old 06-04-2009, 01:04 PM
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fill it up and then change the belt if there are no obvious leaks. See what happens. PM DiscoMike with your telephone number. He has ACE and can walk you through a few things to check over the phone. Then post your findings on here for others.
 
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Old 06-04-2009, 01:16 PM
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Chris, PM me your tele number and I'll try and help you.
 
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Old 06-04-2009, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ryanD2
Try turning the ACE pump by hand and see if there is anything that does not seem normal. should feel about the same as a power steering pump. I have not heard of many issues with this system as mine has had no problems at all. I did however replace the pump about 15k ago just to see if it would run any quieter. If i had to guess the ACE block had problems which i think is like 1500+ or the pump did 700+.

Hey , Thanks a bunch guys, I did turn the pump by hand.......which i should have done already..."Idiot i am"...as i just replaced my rovers water pump last week...."bearing gone" ...IT has a little wabble and play if i rock it back in forth just like my bad water pump did but not as much. I think thats the problem. Is it possible to have the pump bearing replaced or rebuilt? I can see traces of oily fluid around and down wher the pump pully is so it would be highly suspect that that was the problem. They probably took it to the Stealer and they got a $2000.00 estimate to fix it. Anyway thanks for the help so far. I will post pictures of the truck soon..

Thanks again, Chris
 
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Old 06-04-2009, 06:59 PM
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As for the dry reservoir and oil leaking, a known issue. There was a TSB issued for a known leaking problem. Check under the air inlet tube going to the intake. Take loose the tube and lift up and check for fluid all over it's bottom and the pump below. If so, the banjo bolt on the top right of the pump is leaking.

This is a known issue from the factory, where this bolt is not torqued properly.The official fix is to simply tighten the bolt to spec and check for leaks. If no leaks, that's it. If it leaks, replace the two brass washers(gaskets) sealing the banjo bolt and re-torque/check for leaks.

I think the banjo bolt is 13mm. Very, very, very easy to get to after the air inlet tube is out of the way. Be careful not to over-tighten and deform the brass washers. As I recall, it was something like 12-15 in-lbs?

If it's not the banjo bolt, check the lines to & from the reservoir.
 
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Old 06-04-2009, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by PalmettoDisco
As for the dry reservoir and oil leaking, a known issue. There was a TSB issued for a known leaking problem. Check under the air inlet tube going to the intake. Take loose the tube and lift up and check for fluid all over it's bottom and the pump below. If so, the banjo bolt on the top right of the pump is leaking.

This is a known issue from the factory, where this bolt is not torqued properly.The official fix is to simply tighten the bolt to spec and check for leaks. If no leaks, that's it. If it leaks, replace the two brass washers(gaskets) sealing the banjo bolt and re-torque/check for leaks.

I think the banjo bolt is 13mm. Very, very, very easy to get to after the air inlet tube is out of the way. Be careful not to over-tighten and deform the brass washers. As I recall, it was something like 12-15 in-lbs?

If it's not the banjo bolt, check the lines to & from the reservoir.

Thanks, I pretty much think it is the pump as i have spoken with mike and told him there is play in the pump shaft. Bearings are the problem. He told me they dont rebuild pumps so i am on a mission to get mine rebuilt. We send people to space...you cant tell me you cant rebuild a simple pump. I will post my progress as tomorrow i will take off the pump and dissemble it. Will keep all of you posted.

Thanks All , Chris
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 03:33 AM
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Chris. I have ACE on my truck and you will unhappily realize why it was disconnected. The systems benefits do not out weigh it's flaws (mainly noisy whining) my suggestion is to to rover and ask them to shut off the system on the computer. The light will go away. Mine is on it costs about $150 to do it. Seriously though it sounds to me that it was disconnected for a reason. My car feels free without it!
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 09:35 AM
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"if" for what ever reason you "disable" the ACE, you really need to replace the anti roll bars as the ACE actuators will over time "bleed" oil from each side of the ram and go very soft so the vehicle will handle terribly, This is what happens when you get a RED warning light when there is a fault with the system and its warning you not to drive it.

And a vehicle without ACE drives no where near as good as one with it. FACT, its a superb system, yes it can be a pain, but worth it imo........It makes the D2 miles ahead of the rest as far as on road driving goes, and it has more Axle articulation than a vehicle without it from the factory, so its actually better off road to.
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Urban Panzer
"if" for what ever reason you "disable" the ACE, you really need to replace the anti roll bars as the ACE actuators will over time "bleed" oil from each side of the ram and go very soft so the vehicle will handle terribly, This is what happens when you get a RED warning light when there is a fault with the system and its warning you not to drive it.

And a vehicle without ACE drives no where near as good as one with it. FACT, its a superb system, yes it can be a pain, but worth it imo........It makes the D2 miles ahead of the rest as far as on road driving goes, and it has more Axle articulation than a vehicle without it from the factory, so its actually better off road to.
X2....I have ACE on my 99 D2. Drives way better on and off road than many other SUV's. With such a short wheel-base and the weight of these trucks that's saying alot! Try throwing a D1 around corners and then drive a D2 with a good ACE system, you'll be amazed.

IMO, fix the ACE system. Don't disable it. Once the system bleeds off you might as well not have swaybars on the truck and that would be a dangerous vehicle to manuver in a panic situation. Keep in mind who is driving this, your Daughter.
 


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