Hi all
My mechanic recently diagnosed that both my head gaskets were leaking... so of course my unwillingness to pay 2k for them to do it has lead me to try and do it myself. All I have done is change fluids and replace the break pads (on a friends land cruise...)
All this to say I am bit nervous about it and don't really know where to start but I think will be able to get it done seeing as though I bought the disco for cheap and it ran perfectly for a year.
My questions are other than replacing the head gaskets, thermostat and spark plugs what else could I do while i'm in there? and what tools will be needed for me to complete the job.
Another potential issue is I will be doing this parked on the street as I don't really have a place in the city to do it... so hopefully I will be able to work all day and put what I need to away in the car or inside for the next day of work.

I appreciate any help
Thanks

 

No real specialty tools needed. A 12 point 8mm (iirc) for the valve covers.
A good breaker bar 24 inch, a 5/8 6-point impact socket.
You can get all the needed tools for $100 @ harbor freight.
A gasket and bolt set for a couple hundred more.
Plugs, Wires (kingsborn) and a land Rover 180 TD5 thermostat.
To give yourself plenty of time, plan a day to take it down.what ever time the machine shop needs. And a day to get it back up...

Sounds harder than it is.

 

Thanks! are the plugs pretty easy to replace once i'm in there?
Also should I have the shop do a valve job when I take the heads in?

 

Torque wrench. Torque to specs. I'd spend the $40 on eBay and get 2 new coils.plugs are easy. Use anti seize and I like the champion 7070 plugs.

 

Thanks for the advice all!
I just ordered some more tools from harbor freight as well as the plugs and the 180 td5 thermos. I just recently had one of the coils replaced because of a misfire, about a month before the head gaskets started leaking...
I also purchased a good torque wrench and understand the importance of being meticulous with that. As soon as everything gets in this week ill start it up next weekend (pending the weather in philly is nice)

 

Im Gonna follow this
Engine Refresh (top end) | PaulP38A.com

 

Quick idea - you could probably rent a 10x15 or 10x20 storage unit for a couple weeks for less than a $100 if you really wanted to be out of the weather, or even have one of those companies deliver a PODS storage container to you...

A couple more tips:

1. Use red silicone on the exhaust gaskets - both sides(reusable).
2. Black silicone on the valve cover gaskets - both sides (reusable).
3. Rock Auto has best prices on head gaskets (Fel Pro) and intake end seal gaskets (silicone both sides)(valley cover portion is reusable) and head bolts.
4. Vise grips clamped on the pulleys will enable removing the pulley bolts (and radiator fan nut (need a giant 1 1/4 wrench for that).
5. It's easier to put the pushrods back in if you loosen the rocker hold down bolts, but I would not recommend removing them completely (less chance to lose them or put them back wrong).

 

that is a good video but it is also for a GEMS engine and not a Boshe, so there will be some small differences.

you don't have to have a valve job done unless you see a problem,
you want the machine shop to make sure the heads are flat by removing as little material as possible.

you should give them the valve guide seals that come in the gasket kit and have them replace them,
unless you plan on doing them.

get a copy of the RAVE and plenty of bungee cords.

do not disconnect the ac hoses unbolt it and drag it to the side with a bungee cord.

only unbolt the exhaust manifold from the heads, use bungee cords to hold the exhaust manifold out of the way, they can stay connect to the front pipe.

when you get to removing the heads un-torque the bolts, don't just start pulling bolts from the front to the back.
if you do you will never be able to get the rear bolts loose.

make sure you have a large enough torque wrench or friend to use it, you do not want to be jerking on the bolt while tightening them.

it needs to be a clean easy swing drawing it down, the people that jerk on the wrench or use a cheater bar are often the ones with cracked bolt hole when completed.

jmho

 

Thanks! I have a long list of things to keep in mind as I'm doing it. Those will all be added. The bungee cord idea is genius. I actually borrowed a 1 1/4 wrench from a friend as well. Now i'm just hoping it gets above 50f this weekend to make it more pleasant to do .
I'll also check out that video, thanks Micko.
I actually printed the Rave manual at work and just need to bind the parts that I need to make it easier.
The parts are slowly coming in.

 

I'm going to look into some storage units. I live in the city so surprisingly finding a unit that has ground floor open faced one's is a little rare and I don't want to find one that's too far to avoid spending time commuting to it.