Another Knocking Noise
 

So I read all the posts on the forum I could find about knocking sounds but I don't think mine is engine related. (But who knows.) When I am sitting still no knock. When taking off I hear a knock that sounds like it is coming from the front passenger side tire area. There is no difference in the knock when turning the steering wheel. There is no knock at all when turning the steering wheel at a stand still. No bubbles in the fluid. So I have thrown out the idea of a power steering issue. I don't believe it is an engine knock and here is why. When I am rolling and hit the brakes fairly hard I hear the knock from the front, then when I gas again it knocks again almost like something is loose and rocks forward with a stop and then rocks back when taking off. It will continue knocking until about 20 mph then I no longer hear it (not sure if that is just because engine noise and road noise at that speed is enough to cover it up). There is no engine hesitation, no change in knock with speed, no knock standing still, and no metallic clashing sounds. I just had her out in the mud for about 20 min the other day and this is when it started. It was a pretty rough road but nothing it shouldn't have been able to handle. I did not lock the diff either. Everything I can grab underneath seems to be tight. I also jacked it up and took off the passenger side front tire. There is maybe a 1/16" play out and in on the hub but almost impossible to even tell. When I twist the hub the tire rotates about 1 1/2" to 2" before stopping. Same rotating backward. I am not really sure how far it should rotate when jacked up with the parking brake set and the automatic transmission in park. I realize it will stop but I don't know how much rotation is normal. My first thought is a wheel bearing? Also I have only had it about a month and a half and I have not greased the swivel balls on the front end yet. That's everything I can think of to tell you so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Mine makes the same noise from the drivers side. It's not a continuous knocking for me. Just one clunk at take off and one when I stop. I did all the same tests...

busted engine mount? Made that sound in my wife's Pilot.

So I cleaned up the unbelievable mess of 14 years worth of grease, dirt, brake dust, and God know what else. Then I greased my swivel balls, U-joints, and slip joints. The passenger side front was basically dry (it had a marginal amount of grease left). Everything is good and greased now. I checked the exhaust and all the bolts seem tight. I don't believe it is a lifter but just to be sure I am going to check the oil pressure and change the oil. I am going to go with Rotella Diesel Engine Oil 10W-40. Is this what you guys would recommend on the oil? I will change every 500 miles for 2 or 3 times and see if that changes anything. I also plan to jack it up and check the brakes well tomorrow and make sure that there are no loose parts on the brakes causing this. I also checked the motor mounts today. They are worn but not broken. Any other suggestions on a course of action? Is the oil plan a good one? It needs to be done even if this is not the source of the noise. BTW the noise is more of a clicking than a knocking. Thanks guys.

For the summer Rotella 15w-40, for the winter Rotella 5w-40.
Change it every 1000 miles for the next 2-3 thousand and then you will be fine to go 5,000 miles between oil changes after that.
That will flush the engine good and then you will be fine.

Her is what I do...
I change my oil every 5,000 miles, so everytime a "5" or a "0" is third place from the left it is time for a oil change.
Never mind about the "hundreds", this time you change it a few hundred miles early next time a few hundred late, make no matter.
As long as you change it when there is a "0" or a "5" third from the left your fine.

Example, this oil change you had 85,236 miles, next oil change is due at 90,000 miles.
You change it at 90,096 miles, next one is at 95,000.
You get the idea.

this sounds like it could be a bad front driveshaft if you can hear it you should consider not driving the truck till the shaft has new greaseable U joints installed and the pivot ball is replaced in the Cardian joint otherwise you will also be doing this plus replacing the transmission

Thanks for the info Spike. I will take it to heart. I plan to get on a good schedule with her. Thanks. Mrmerlin, the drive shaft seems to be nice and tight, no play, u-joints still had some grease in them (mine are the greasable u-joints as it is a 96 Disco). I think you could be right though. I had a 95 F-250 that did this and I had to replace the u-joints. If I remember right it was a very similar noise. Thanks for the tip. I will get some new ones tomorrow and get them switched. I will post an update tomorrow night.

The rave cd (download the complete one below) states on the DI you can use 15-40 down to -10deg.F - if I'm not mistaken.

When you say there may be 1/16" on the hub, I must mention the hub is to be pre-loaded - "0" play.

Some DI's are missing the stainless rail the brake pads move on, that can/will cause "clicking" when taking off after braking - not an emergency. look at them while your wheel is off.

The noise also could be any number of your bushings being worn (incl. shocks)

It could be your front cv joint(s) since, as you say, the pass side was "basically dry"
If you have to replace your large swivel seals, there's a cool way to do it, I'll post it if necessary, but I can't type, so it'll take me 30mins to type, you, 2mins. to read.

And I agree on the driveshaft, (worth checking) although we don't have the drama the DII's do.

luck,greg

Thanks for the info Greg. Since you are on here how do you feel about napa or autozone u-joints. They both have the grease-able u-joints for my year model. Autozone comes with a 2-yr warranty. I was thinking about picking them up in the morning first thing as I don't need to have my DD out of service while I wait for ordered ones to come in. Thanks.

I'd say they're probably fine, as long as you don't off-road like a lunatic and they have grease fittings, (although there's valid argument that greaseless are stronger).

You also know to grease them (even new) until the grease starts to ooze out of all four caps. (wipe off excess)

Precision #344 ujoints are supposed to be good & reasonable.

luck,greg