![]() |
Any trick to the steering knuckle?
I'm trying to do the front ball joints. I am working on the front driver's side first. I am down to taking the knuckle off, but I cannot get it to budge. I have followed the RAVE manual, but I am using a "pickle fork" as I have heard it called, and not the exact tool listed in the RAVE. I cannot get it to budge off the ball joints. Maybe of note, but the bottom ball joint seems to twist when I move the knuckle, I can see the threads moving. The top doesn't do that. I've been hammering at it (1/2 kg sledge) on the fork for maybe 1.5 hours now. I've soaked it before in penetrating oil, but I have it soaking again. Any tips to get that damn thing off?
|
Originally Posted by DiscoOslo
(Post 928043)
I'm trying to do the front ball joints. I am working on the front driver's side first. I am down to taking the knuckle off, but I cannot get it to budge. I have followed the RAVE manual, but I am using a "pickle fork" as I have heard it called, and not the exact tool listed in the RAVE. I cannot get it to budge off the ball joints. Maybe of note, but the bottom ball joint seems to twist when I move the knuckle, I can see the threads moving. The top doesn't do that. I've been hammering at it (1/2 kg sledge) on the fork for maybe 1.5 hours now. I've soaked it before in penetrating oil, but I have it soaking again. Any tips to get that damn thing off?
I’ve started with a dead blow mallet, then escalated to a 3lb, and then finally knocked it off with a 5-er. |
Originally Posted by Brandon318
(Post 928046)
This is one of the more frustrating disco projects, sorry it’s giving you grief. So I’ve found the most success by giving it a blow with a sledge on that top flat spot.
I’ve started with a dead blow mallet, then escalated to a 3lb, and then finally knocked it off with a 5-er. |
Sorry for the struggles. Land Rovers are good reasons to buy good tools. I like to back the section up with one heavy hammer, then whack it on the opposite side. Theory is to cause a slight deformation that allows the taper to drop out. Maybe also use a clamp-style remover to create some tension prior to hammering. Some heat might also help, for a bit of expansion. Once the technique is perfected, it takes only minutes. Check out online videos. Note the tapers fit so closely that penetrating oil does not penetrate.
|
Originally Posted by JohnZo
(Post 928065)
Sorry for the struggles. Land Rovers are good reasons to buy good tools. I like to back the section up with one heavy hammer, then whack it on the opposite side. Theory is to cause a slight deformation that allows the taper to drop out. Maybe also use a clamp-style remover to create some tension prior to hammering. Some heat might also help, for a bit of expansion. Once the technique is perfected, it takes only minutes. Check out online videos. Note the tapers fit so closely that penetrating oil does not penetrate.
|
Originally Posted by JohnZo
(Post 928065)
Note the tapers fit so closely that penetrating oil does not penetrate.
|
What about heat and wax? that may be just enough to get it loose? It always hard to tell what did loosened a fitting, but I seem to have had luck that a number of times. Could have been the penetrant or heat or anything else I used, but it seems to have helped.
|
Originally Posted by redrover75
(Post 928225)
What about heat and wax? that may be just enough to get it loose? It always hard to tell what did loosened a fitting, but I seem to have had luck that a number of times. Could have been the penetrant or heat or anything else I used, but it seems to have helped.
|
Originally Posted by DiscoOslo
(Post 928226)
I thought I posted, but I don't see it. I was able to procure a 2.7kg sledge hammer, and after about 5 minutes of hitting the taper joint it broke loose. Ball joints are replaced now. ☺️
|
Originally Posted by Brandon318
(Post 928228)
Great feeling isn't it?
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:20 AM. |
© 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands