Battery Voltage at obd port? Accurate?
#1
Battery Voltage at obd port? Accurate?
Noticed today that I was only reading between 12.4 and 12.8 which seems low as most cars I've had stay steady in the 14s. Could the obd port not be accurate, or is something wrong? I will test at battery terminal tomorrow if I get a chance, but am wondering if there is an issue. The alternator looks like a newish Bosch replacement
#2
Noticed today that I was only reading between 12.4 and 12.8 which seems low as most cars I've had stay steady in the 14s. Could the obd port not be accurate, or is something wrong? I will test at battery terminal tomorrow if I get a chance, but am wondering if there is an issue. The alternator looks like a newish Bosch replacement
#3
Thanks for checking, I had a feeling since I've usually had pretty dead on readings using the same method on my other cars. I'm not showing any codes related to low voltage, but am wondering if it can be contributing to my three amigos issue. The car does have a zillion miles so it's feasible that even though the alternator was replaced at some point that it could need one again
#4
Thanks for checking, I had a feeling since I've usually had pretty dead on readings using the same method on my other cars. I'm not showing any codes related to low voltage, but am wondering if it can be contributing to my three amigos issue. The car does have a zillion miles so it's feasible that even though the alternator was replaced at some point that it could need one again
You never forget things like that!
#5
Wow! These things are odd to me, so primitive in some ways yet so complex in others. It seems like everything that doesn't involve the electrical system is super easy to work on. Hopefully this is a simple case of a weak alternator or bad ground. Funny thing is the car starts fine, and most everything works besides the power locks. Wondering if that may be related as well. I hear a click when I press the switch like a relay actuating, but maybe it doesn't have quite enough kick
#6
Wow! These things are odd to me, so primitive in some ways yet so complex in others. It seems like everything that doesn't involve the electrical system is super easy to work on. Hopefully this is a simple case of a weak alternator or bad ground. Funny thing is the car starts fine, and most everything works besides the power locks. Wondering if that may be related as well. I hear a click when I press the switch like a relay actuating, but maybe it doesn't have quite enough kick
#7
#8
I'll second Charlie's transmission experience, although happily my Rover shop pegged the alternator and battery right away. Another symptom was that the driver's window would not lift and lower without the lift arms binding. Once the alternator/battery voltage was up to par, all the transmission and window problems went away.
Now I drive with OBD2 voltage as one of the page 1 measurements on my Ultragauge.
Now I drive with OBD2 voltage as one of the page 1 measurements on my Ultragauge.
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