braking issues, pulls to the left but right front wheel tries to lock (odd)
 

My discovery was pulling to the left when braking, so I re-built both front calipers, replaced the front brake pads front and rotors and replaced the master cylinder ( the old one was leaking, and for the price difference for the reservoir and a new one I chose the latter), and bled the system. I actuated the ABS pump by jumping the terminals where the relay goes with a jumper wire. Now it doesn't pull as bad after replacing these parts and flushing but when towing, the truck will pull to the left, but the right front tries to lock up, especially in the rain. Could this be an alignment issue? there is some play in the steering, so I was thinking if the alignment was off and/or the steering linkage was worn that it could cause this. Its the only explanation. It baffles me because normally if a car pulls to the left then it is the left tire that is getting more brake pressure. this is backwards, it pulls to the left but the front right tries to lock. It did this in the rain and my passenger determined it was the right trying to lock. Also the 3 amigo's used to come on intermittently and now remain permanently on since the repair. I am going to get the ABS codes read but have ordered new wheel sensors and shuttle valve seals and switches.

did you check the rear calipers?
if you have a frozen rear caliper it will cause the truck to pull also, because you have more braking power to one side.
just a thought

You need to get the codes for the 3 amigos and fix that problem along with a full 2 quart brake flush before you mess with the brakes.

I have done a full 2 quart brake flush and re packed the front two calipers, new rotors and brake pads on the front. It is worse when towing, but with no load I can let go of the steering wheel and brake firmly and it stays straight. could it be from the back squatting from the weight. I recently swapped out my springs for some OME springs from a buddies p38. the back springs seem much softer than the front despite being much thicker than stock. the new front springs are really stiff, I am thinking the slack in the steering and the uneven spring rates may have something to do with it. I ordered new shuttle valve seals and the switches. Its scary when towing and I have to really plan ahead and leave lots of room to stop. as a result I no longer tow, and I need it fixed so I can tow my trailer. I am going to order new steering links and get an alignment. If that doesn't help, I am going to re-pack the rear calipers and get a new terrafirma or OME lift, which I was going to do until my A/C unit went out at my house. That cost my $2,600 for the entire system, thanks to a family member that gave it to me at his cost and charged minimum on labor. It got the heat pump, air handler and aux heat coil for $1,900 plus $600 for labor refrigerant and new lines. What a steal! Everyone else was quoting over $5k! When I am done the whole brake system on my Disco will be new, as will be the steering and springs and shocks.

Quit guess and spending money and send me your number cause you are missing the problem.

I will do that Mike. Most of this stuff I am replacing because os mileage as a preventative precaution. The brake rotors were badly worn and pads were worn almost to the metal. I looked at the cost of replacing the reservior to fix the leaking at the seals between the reservior and master cylinder and decided to just replave the whole thing instead because it would be cheaper in the long run. My 3 amigos were I termittant so I ordered the shuttle vakve seals abd switches because I knew with my mileage I would need to do this anyway as I was already getting the symptoms. I know I will need steering arms and I want to order the proper spring and shock kit so everything will be correct. I am also going to get the caliper seal kit for the rears as well , as it is cheap and worth it. I will send you my number so we can talk. Thanks mike