Castor Correct Radius Arms vs. New Bushes
 

Ok, so I was under old Frank a couple days ago removing my rear sway bar (which was great, still rides like a champ on the road too. Almost no change in road manner at 60mph even around tight turns). Anyway, I glanced over at my radius arm and noticed a pretty gnarly rip in one of the bushes. Looks to be ~1.5" long and ~1/3" wide. Looks like it's time to replace. Now, I've got a 2" lift waiting to go on right now, as well as 2" shocks and extended brake lines in the near-ish future. I may bump that lift to 3" in the future, but that remains to be seen. I'm curious, at 2-3" how much difference to the castor correct arms make? What is the cheapest brand I can get that won't snap the first time I bounce it off of a rock? Should I just replace the bushes when I do my lift? I don't have a press, so I'd have to pay a shop to do it for me. That said, if I go back with stock, would it be cheaper for me to replace the whole arm than have a shop press in new bushes?

I'm just comparing prices right now. Bushes aren't expensive, but shop labor is and you have to wait for them to finish before you can continue working.

So, my options are as follows:

All new bushes.

Castor correct arms (do the rear need castor correct arms also?)

New stock arms.

I saw RTE had some for $3** with a $200 core charge. I'm assuming they just modify the ones they get in as cores. Anyone know if they'd buy an extra set for a discount? I don't know if anyone from RTE is on the forums, so I may just call or shoot them an email.

Thanks everyone!

bushings can be done in a big vise, but it sux. but an arbor press can be had for under $50 @ harbor frieght.

:eek:
yes rte are just modified. (re angled and sandwich plated for reinforcement)
having them cranked, keeps them more outs harms way.
with 2" I wouldn't recommend a correction. but if you need new bushes and are going 3", you can always go the route of correction bushes. 2birds
http://shop.challenger4x4.com/ekmps/...sic-1844-p.jpg

Hmm, if I did 3" it would be down the road a ways. My 2" is just my extra rear springs in the front and some 2.5" poly plate raisers for the rear that I made. 3" would require new springs, so probably when the ones I have get saggy. I guess that means stick with stock until that happens since I don't plan on adding much weight in the near future and they're still in factory spec.

Anyone know the best source for bushes or new complete arms?

Anyone have first hand experience with these on a D2?

I did some research here as well

I have the TF 3" lift. I got an alignment check, and the caster was off by about 3 degrees, which explains the shopping cart feel, and hopefully my pull-left under hard braking

Caster corrected bushings is not as strong or as good a solution as corrected arms, but it is an entertainable trade-off due to cost.

I just ordered the Terrafirma 3 degree caster corrected arms for about $350 shipped. Also picked up a new set of Allmakes bushings. I looked into the fancier poly bushings, but didn't want to spend 140$+ on it.

With the 2" lift, the 3 degree arms will still put you into factory spec

From what I've heard you also lose some articulation with the offset bushings.

Edit: just replied to my own old thread.... Interesting.

Same situation here.. Let me know if arms correct sketchy steering..

So sketchy! I was driving home on I-5 at night, in the rain, and felt so out of control at times.

In truth if you are running 2" to 4" lift you should use castor correction particularly on the front where it matters the most as it effects steering. IMO I prefer to use castor corrected radius arms but the cheaper option is using bushes which in truth don't give exact castor correction.

Castor, Camber and Toe in or out is vitally important to steering for highway use but less critical on offroad use only apart from tire wear and tear.

https://www.google.fr/search?q=steer...w=1280&bih=670