Condensor Fan/Engine Temp Questions
#11
Oops - left this out about the hard to find temps:
From the RAVE:
request is output if vehicle speed is 80 km/h or less while the external air temperature is 28
From the RAVE:
Engine cooling fan control
While the A/C system is on, operation of the electric engine cooling fan, to assist refrigerant condenser operation, is
determined by a combination of vehicle speed and external air temperature. When cooling fan operation is required,
the ATC ECU outputs a cooling fan request to the ECM, which then energises the cooling fan relay. The cooling fan
While the A/C system is on, operation of the electric engine cooling fan, to assist refrigerant condenser operation, is
determined by a combination of vehicle speed and external air temperature. When cooling fan operation is required,
the ATC ECU outputs a cooling fan request to the ECM, which then energises the cooling fan relay. The cooling fan
request is output if vehicle speed is 80 km/h or less while the external air temperature is 28
°C (82 °F) or more. The
request is cancelled, and the cooling fan switched off, if either the vehicle speed increases to 100 km/h, or the external
air temperature decreases to 25
air temperature decreases to 25
°C (77 °F).
So if you are less than 50 mph and air outside is 82 F +, fan on (guess AC must be on as well)
If you are 62 MPH or outside air drops below 77F, fan off.
Guess if the blades are on wrong or the wiring is backward, the electric fan would be "fighting" the air flow while driving, which might account for a fan every six months....
Guess if the blades are on wrong or the wiring is backward, the electric fan would be "fighting" the air flow while driving, which might account for a fan every six months....
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 11-02-2011 at 09:35 PM.
#12
OK thanks for all the info...
@Mike - I hooked up a scanner and got the same temp readings from the computer as the with the laser/infrared thermometer. I put it in different places on the block and it all came back similar. I realize that there are always variables that impact the readings but we were pretty thorough and when you get similar readings multiple times I tend to believe it. I don't know what a "good scanner" is so let me know and I will get my hands on one if I can.
@Spike - I replaced the fans because the motors blew on the first two within 12 months of replacing, my guess on why is that they were/are running constantly. Its doesn't matter what the outside temp is they always come on, made me think that the engine was running hotter than it should.
@SB - Good info thanks for taking the time to write it...as far as the fans go I did the grocery bag test and it passed...tested the fan clutch before and its operating normal with resistance as it should (also blowing the right way). I don't have the "wooshing" sound behind the dash...never have. I had the water pump replaced 2 years ago, double checked it and its working properly, coolant level is normal and coolant is clean.
Appreciate the feedback, I am going to start with Thermostat and see where that takes me. Going to flush the system and replace it this weekend, also switching to green (aluminum safe) coolant and see if that fixes the issue. If not or if there is porblem with the radiator, I'm sure it will rear its ugly head in that process.
Thanks again as always for the help.
@Mike - I hooked up a scanner and got the same temp readings from the computer as the with the laser/infrared thermometer. I put it in different places on the block and it all came back similar. I realize that there are always variables that impact the readings but we were pretty thorough and when you get similar readings multiple times I tend to believe it. I don't know what a "good scanner" is so let me know and I will get my hands on one if I can.
@Spike - I replaced the fans because the motors blew on the first two within 12 months of replacing, my guess on why is that they were/are running constantly. Its doesn't matter what the outside temp is they always come on, made me think that the engine was running hotter than it should.
@SB - Good info thanks for taking the time to write it...as far as the fans go I did the grocery bag test and it passed...tested the fan clutch before and its operating normal with resistance as it should (also blowing the right way). I don't have the "wooshing" sound behind the dash...never have. I had the water pump replaced 2 years ago, double checked it and its working properly, coolant level is normal and coolant is clean.
Appreciate the feedback, I am going to start with Thermostat and see where that takes me. Going to flush the system and replace it this weekend, also switching to green (aluminum safe) coolant and see if that fixes the issue. If not or if there is porblem with the radiator, I'm sure it will rear its ugly head in that process.
Thanks again as always for the help.
#13
Take a look in the stat, see this pix https://landroverforums.com/forum/at...mostat-005-jpg,
can be plugged with gunk, which changes point it operates at.
can be plugged with gunk, which changes point it operates at.
#14
Take a look in the stat, see this pix https://landroverforums.com/forum/at...mostat-005-jpg,
can be plugged with gunk, which changes point it operates at.
can be plugged with gunk, which changes point it operates at.
Will post some pics on Sat when i get it out...thanks again for the advice
#15
Also, thinking about on all the time, what about the cooling fan relay? It is in the fuse box under the hood, switches volts from F5. See attached drawing.
Guess if you have double cooling (both fans running when not needed) that might explain the 100 degree variation in rad in/out temp. You can unplug F5 to disable fan for testing, it just runs the fan.
Guess if you have double cooling (both fans running when not needed) that might explain the 100 degree variation in rad in/out temp. You can unplug F5 to disable fan for testing, it just runs the fan.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 11-02-2011 at 09:55 PM.
#16
Looks Good...
OK...just to update and close this out. First off thanks for all the help as always.
So Saturday i changed out the thermostat, and flushed the dex cool out put in the blue stuff. Thermostat was pretty brown (attached some pics) but not blocked anywhere. i will say that although the coolant looked pretty clean in the expansion tank, when we flushed it was pretty cloudy and brown.
Since the change, engine temps went from about 225 at idle to about 195-200, and the condenser fan no longer comes on. Also, the hoses are closer in temp. So when i test the hose on the bottom of the rad to thermostat its about 105-115, the hoses on the top are about 165-170.
Once again thanks for all the advice.
So Saturday i changed out the thermostat, and flushed the dex cool out put in the blue stuff. Thermostat was pretty brown (attached some pics) but not blocked anywhere. i will say that although the coolant looked pretty clean in the expansion tank, when we flushed it was pretty cloudy and brown.
Since the change, engine temps went from about 225 at idle to about 195-200, and the condenser fan no longer comes on. Also, the hoses are closer in temp. So when i test the hose on the bottom of the rad to thermostat its about 105-115, the hoses on the top are about 165-170.
Once again thanks for all the advice.
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