D2 Cranks but will not start
#11
#12
D2 Cranks but will not start
After reading the suggestions from RoverMasterTech I bought a Logic tester today so that I could do this at the weekend. Question is, do I have to do this at the coil packs (not the easiest to get to) or can I do it the engine harness to main harness connector at the rear RH side of the engine bay.
#13
After reading the suggestions from RoverMasterTech I bought a Logic tester today so that I could do this at the weekend. Question is, do I have to do this at the coil packs (not the easiest to get to) or can I do it the engine harness to main harness connector at the rear RH side of the engine bay.
#14
When checking a crank/nostart ALWAYS check the RPM with a scan tool. It's the 1st thing you do. If the ECU is telling you no rpm, you have an input problem. If it shows RPM you have an output side problem.
"Originally Posted by RoverMasterTech View Post
See if the OBD tester reads RPM while cranking. If it doesn't, it's something with the crank sensor/ecu/harness for sure. If you have RPM when cranking, check the ground pulse to one of the coils and power to the coil."
"Originally Posted by RoverMasterTech View Post
See if the OBD tester reads RPM while cranking. If it doesn't, it's something with the crank sensor/ecu/harness for sure. If you have RPM when cranking, check the ground pulse to one of the coils and power to the coil."
#15
D2 Cranks but will not start
After considerable hours of troubleshooting and swapping of parts from the other D 2 the engine starts.
Update on how I got there (Note that I do not have access to a OBD2 scanner with live stream or RPM readout - I am open to suggestions on which is the best one to buy Smile)
With the use of the logic tester (OTC 3630) I checked for the voltage and pulses as per the schematic from RoverMasterTech - Pulses were present at the ECM on pins 2,6,7 & 8. Ground on pin 5
I then checked for voltage at the engine harness to main harness plug (located at the rear RH side of engine compartment) - Voltage on pins 4 & 5
Unbolted the coil packs and pulled upwards to gain access to the connectors to check continuity of cables from ECM pins 32, 45 & 46 to coil packs - All good
Plugged connectors into another set of coil packs - engine cranks - no spark at plugs
Unplugged the ECM and BCU and fitted the ECM and BCU from the other D2 - engine cranks - no spark at plugs
After reading several threads reporting issues with the fuse boxes:
Changed out the engine bay fuse box - cranks but still no spark
Changed out the interior fuse box in the drivers footwell - cranks and started
I then rechecked everything that I had done to see if there were any changes with the Ignition off, Ignition on , and cranking - All readings, voltages, grounds, pulses etc were the same.
I opened the fuse box for inspection but could not see what could have caused the issue.
My sincere thanks to all that provided guidance and I hope that my write up will be helpful to others who may encounter this issue.
Update on how I got there (Note that I do not have access to a OBD2 scanner with live stream or RPM readout - I am open to suggestions on which is the best one to buy Smile)
With the use of the logic tester (OTC 3630) I checked for the voltage and pulses as per the schematic from RoverMasterTech - Pulses were present at the ECM on pins 2,6,7 & 8. Ground on pin 5
I then checked for voltage at the engine harness to main harness plug (located at the rear RH side of engine compartment) - Voltage on pins 4 & 5
Unbolted the coil packs and pulled upwards to gain access to the connectors to check continuity of cables from ECM pins 32, 45 & 46 to coil packs - All good
Plugged connectors into another set of coil packs - engine cranks - no spark at plugs
Unplugged the ECM and BCU and fitted the ECM and BCU from the other D2 - engine cranks - no spark at plugs
After reading several threads reporting issues with the fuse boxes:
Changed out the engine bay fuse box - cranks but still no spark
Changed out the interior fuse box in the drivers footwell - cranks and started
I then rechecked everything that I had done to see if there were any changes with the Ignition off, Ignition on , and cranking - All readings, voltages, grounds, pulses etc were the same.
I opened the fuse box for inspection but could not see what could have caused the issue.
My sincere thanks to all that provided guidance and I hope that my write up will be helpful to others who may encounter this issue.
#16
Check fuse #14 in drivers compartment fuse box (coil pack fuse) for continuity and power with key on and relay R4 (ignition relay, right lower). Bought a Dll, $500, wouldn't start, had fuel/cranked strong...but no spark. Checked the coil pack fuse #14, good, went to swap relay and as soon as l touched it...it felt out in my hand. Pushed it back in and she fired right up.
l know you said you pulled fuse boxes looking for short to ground or loose connections...but l didn't read where you checked fuses, fuseable links or relays.
Good luck.
l know you said you pulled fuse boxes looking for short to ground or loose connections...but l didn't read where you checked fuses, fuseable links or relays.
Good luck.
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adolfojbonilla (08-27-2021)
#17
#18
After considerable hours of troubleshooting and swapping of parts from the other D 2 the engine starts.
Update on how I got there (Note that I do not have access to a OBD2 scanner with live stream or RPM readout - I am open to suggestions on which is the best one to buy Smile)
With the use of the logic tester (OTC 3630) I checked for the voltage and pulses as per the schematic from RoverMasterTech - Pulses were present at the ECM on pins 2,6,7 & 8. Ground on pin 5
I then checked for voltage at the engine harness to main harness plug (located at the rear RH side of engine compartment) - Voltage on pins 4 & 5
Unbolted the coil packs and pulled upwards to gain access to the connectors to check continuity of cables from ECM pins 32, 45 & 46 to coil packs - All good
Plugged connectors into another set of coil packs - engine cranks - no spark at plugs
Unplugged the ECM and BCU and fitted the ECM and BCU from the other D2 - engine cranks - no spark at plugs
After reading several threads reporting issues with the fuse boxes:
Changed out the engine bay fuse box - cranks but still no spark
Changed out the interior fuse box in the drivers footwell - cranks and started
I then rechecked everything that I had done to see if there were any changes with the Ignition off, Ignition on , and cranking - All readings, voltages, grounds, pulses etc were the same.
I opened the fuse box for inspection but could not see what could have caused the issue.
My sincere thanks to all that provided guidance and I hope that my write up will be helpful to others who may encounter this issue.
Update on how I got there (Note that I do not have access to a OBD2 scanner with live stream or RPM readout - I am open to suggestions on which is the best one to buy Smile)
With the use of the logic tester (OTC 3630) I checked for the voltage and pulses as per the schematic from RoverMasterTech - Pulses were present at the ECM on pins 2,6,7 & 8. Ground on pin 5
I then checked for voltage at the engine harness to main harness plug (located at the rear RH side of engine compartment) - Voltage on pins 4 & 5
Unbolted the coil packs and pulled upwards to gain access to the connectors to check continuity of cables from ECM pins 32, 45 & 46 to coil packs - All good
Plugged connectors into another set of coil packs - engine cranks - no spark at plugs
Unplugged the ECM and BCU and fitted the ECM and BCU from the other D2 - engine cranks - no spark at plugs
After reading several threads reporting issues with the fuse boxes:
Changed out the engine bay fuse box - cranks but still no spark
Changed out the interior fuse box in the drivers footwell - cranks and started
I then rechecked everything that I had done to see if there were any changes with the Ignition off, Ignition on , and cranking - All readings, voltages, grounds, pulses etc were the same.
I opened the fuse box for inspection but could not see what could have caused the issue.
My sincere thanks to all that provided guidance and I hope that my write up will be helpful to others who may encounter this issue.
So, with that being said...when you checked everything, before and after, and found voltage readings the same...this doesn't surprise me...since it was most likely a amperage (corrosion/resistance) issue at fuse box.
If l had a dollar for everytime a tech came up to me and said..."I got power there"...l'd be rich. Or if l had a dollar for everytime a corroded fuse was the culprit...same results...rich. A 10 amp fuse carries 10 amps...but if the 10 amp fuse is corroded/poor connection and only 2 amps are crossing its blades...components don't work. Like, let's say coil packs for instanance.
Glad you got her running.
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