There's a couple of things to think about here. First, like many things, you have to do a cost-benefit analysis. The Gen V and 8 speed are probably at about $5k for just the drivetrain. The programming and harnesses for those engines are significantly more expensive (around $2k). That is pushing into the $10k swap category just for parts. Although I love my Discovery, and I think the values will increase, at this time, I don't think many people would want to put that much money into a Discovery. And the people who are willing will not want to buy a kit, they will just have a shop complete it.

Second, for a kit, even the Gen 3 swap is close to the limit of what most enthusiasts could do at home without a lift. The Gen V swap would be quite a bit more complicated. However, again, I could see shops doing it in-house.

Don't think that I am knocking this idea, I like it, but there are some practical limitations. We have looked into going this route in the future, and I am sure that we will pursue it down the road -- we should actually be able to electrically support it now. I probably would not go with the 8-speed, but jump straight to the new 10-speed. The 8-speed will have a relatively short production run; I think the 10-speed will be around for a while. It comes down to build goals: if you want a solid replacement for the Rover V8, using the ZF and a Gen 3 LS engine is a great option, fairly straightforward to install, and competitively priced with a Turner engine. If you want to make the Discovery into the absolute best possible vehicle it can be, then the 6.2L and 10-speed may be an attractive option.

 

When pulling the 4.6 is it necessary to pull the heads in order to gain access to the top bolts that bolt the block to the transmission? Or can you get to those without removing the heads when you lower the engine (after removing the engine mounts)?

Also, are you guys leaving the steering pump lines attached to then engine and pump and removing all together or leaving the pump and lines in the engine bay?

Thanks!

 

You have to pull the upper intake, but you do not need to remove the heads. The top bell housing bolts are difficult, but not impossible with the heads on. Once you take out the motor mounts and lower the engine, there is a fair amount of room to get at the bolts.

It is easiest to remove the power steering lines and pull the power steering pump with the engine.

 

 

Lets just say your rover will spend its entire life in the altitude range of 5000-13,000 feet. so you're looking at a minimum power loss of 15% and as high as 40% going over passes. How about then? I would think then the 6.0 would perform at altitude like the 5.3 at sea level, so in theory it wouldn't push the power limits. Thoughts?

And side note, if ANY of you think your rover is slow and you DON'T live at altitude, you need to quit your whining because you already have almost 40 more HP to use than I do!

 

I think in that situation, you would likely be fine. The life of the transmission can be significantly influenced by how you drive. With proper care and no abuse, I doubt it would be a problem.

Regardless, you will want to make sure the transmission stays in its proper temperature range -- I'd get a second or larger cooler. I would stick with a 4HP24 and consider the larger torque converter from the P38 (still working on this option).

 

I have nothing against getting more trans cooling! At altitude it's a good idea anyway since the air has less cooling effect with less humidity as well. I plan to buy a rover specifically to swap in to so I'll make sure to get an 03/04 for sure for the better trans. Between those two years is there a preferred?

 

Beta kits are heading out to new homes. Looking forward to seeing some more LS-powered Discos soon!