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Ace, you had previously mentioned that having done a 2" lift would make the swap easier -- how much so? I am interested in the swap but not he 2" lift....would you consider not having done the 2" lift a deal-breaker, significantly important or just "nice to have?" Thanks, m
Thanks for the update, Ace!
Correct me if i'm wrong but it sounds like we no longer have to worry about sourcing an engine with the correctly color coded ECU? I.e. Blue vs red.
Also sounds like we can include gen 3 vortec engines from later years that made the switch to drive by wire without needing to worry about grabbing the pedal assembly.
Blue and red (411) is still the easiest way to go. If this works out, with the blue-green, you will still need parts of the pedal assembly, but you will not have to swap out the electronic throttle body.
Originally Posted by Daedrix
Just wanted to put some info out there. The harness doesn't really matter when it come to the electronic pedal to a certain degree. The video i posted earlier, the engine harness originally had an electronic throttle setup. I converted it to a drive by cable setup. As long as you have the correct ecu you can add the pins and plugs required to run a cable setup. I have a bunch of ecus laying around from an "all you can carry day" at my local junkyard. So i just added the pins and swapped the colored connector as well as the ecu.
So what you can do is get whatever gen 3 motor and just find at the junkyard or whatever; 1) correct ecu 2) throttle body with sensors 3) pins and plugs. All that is left is to wire it up
Yes, but the biggest issue is the blue-green ECMs that have the ability to run the drive-by-wire are getting rarer. Car-part also doesn't seem to separate the ECMs by model number. Going to a pick and pull where you can look at them individually is a great idea if you want that route.
This new project we have been working on will allow the factory pedal to work with the drive-by-wire setups. The end goal is to use the GM cruise control instead of the Land Rover. Red-blue with the appropriate throttle body is the most straightforward.
Ace, you had previously mentioned that having done a 2" lift would make the swap easier -- how much so? I am interested in the swap but not he 2" lift....would you consider not having done the 2" lift a deal-breaker, significantly important or just "nice to have?" Thanks, m
If you do any form of off-roading, the 2 inch lift will be necessary for articulation. For on-road use, you may be able to get away without the lift. That being said, I would put the 2 inch lift in the very highly recommended category, along with a lower-profile oil pan.
Service #:12200411 aka P01 = DBC but is capable of DBW per the comments in that video posted by Daedrix. I believe this is because it was used with 1999-2003 Vette's all of which were DBW, Blue/Red connector found in 99-02 vehicles. (apparently this specific service number was only introduced in 2001). If planning DBW then you have to make sure your throttle body is from 99-02 since the pins changed in 2003 to a single 8 pin rather than two separate 2+6 pin connectors.
Service#: 12576106 aka P59 = will also with with either DBW or DBC, Green/Blue connector, most all 2003 trucks should have this PCM (commonly found in the 2004 GTO, Savanahs and Express Vans)
Are there any other advantages to going with 411/P01 other than it's easier to find? Sounds like the proper order is to source your engine first, determine the type of throttle body you have then get the appropriate PCM to match it. Great read on the PCMs with detailed pictures can be found here: https://www.lsenginediy.com/comparin...i-controllers/
No off-roading plans here -- my question was strictly from an "ease of conversion" POV....is that how you based your reply? Thanks, m
From an "ease of conversion" standpoint, I would definitely add the lift. Otherwise, some slight trimming may be required. Also, if you are using a iron-block LS you will see a little front-end sag without getting different springs. On most of these trucks, the stock springs will be worn out at this point anyway.
Originally Posted by whowa004
Are there any updates from some of the testers? Also are any of the testers in say Colorado or other high altitude areas?
Nothing to report really beyond last time. While the first batch of testers were not in high altitude areas, the second-round beta testers includes some people that regularly take their trucks to higher altitudes, so I'll have some feedback soon.
I have attached a link to the expected parts list. I want to emphasize that parts will probably change from what is stated here, so don't buy anything based on this list. I will update the list as things move forward. Overall, I think this lines up well with our expected budget from the beginning at right around $5k. I don't anticipate any major additions from here. Furthermore, there are a number of ways to lower the price further by buying a full engine pull-out with the harness and ECM.
Hey ACE can I run a electric water pump on the 5.3 I do a lot of trial driving and the hot summer and low speed I can pull a steep hill then wait for the group sometime gets a little warm
The 5.3 LM7 went in today. New setup is looking good. The new headers went in with only some slight massaging on the driver's side.
Originally Posted by 2002 beast
Hey ACE can I run a electric water pump on the 5.3 I do a lot of trial driving and the hot summer and low speed I can pull a steep hill then wait for the group sometime gets a little warm
You could, but depending on the dimensions it may conflict with accessories.
05-15-2019, 08:20 AM
