DIY $120 Lift
#1
09-28-2015, 04:16 PM
DIY $120 Lift
Ok, let me start by saying this is super budget. It's not optimal by any means, and if you have the $$$ I'd still go with a quality Terrafirma or even better RTE lift.
Ok, here we go. For the rear, you need longer grade 8 bolts. Completely forgot what size, but I'll find it and edit back for you. I used a polyurethane pallet jack wheel with a 4" diameter rated at 30k lbs. I cut it into two 2.5" length pieces using a standard chop saw with a wood blade. Go slow and it actually cuts really well. Then it just goes under the rear spring plate and bolts down. You can use metal or polyurethane, use something else if you're feeling adventurous and be sure to post us some pictures of what you come up with! Here's mine installed.
Ok, for the front we are actually doing springs. No spacers here. I used a set of factory rear springs off of my parts truck. They do have the flat bottom, but they actually fit fine in the factory spring plates as long as you still place the end of the coil where it would go with the factory spring. You can see what I'm talking about in the following pictures.
This is very simple, I did it with a buddy in my school parking lot. I will admit, I did not replace my shocks. I need to VERY badly, but they weren't in the budget yet. You need 2 jacks, 2 jack stands, one friend in case you drop the truck on yourself, a socket set, an 18mm ratcheting box wrench, a 13mm or 1/2" ratcheting box wrench, and probably some PB blaster. I would like to note, you do NOT need to remove the front crossmember OR the front driveshaft. Just use your bottle jack and the axle will pivot on the driveshaft, no issue.
This achieved 2.5" of lift in the rear, and a whopping 3.5" in the front. For that reason, I very much recommend getting Discovery 1 spring plates for the rear. I got my set from Paul Grant, though I have not yet installed them. I am also going to use an extra spring isolator on the bottom of the rear spring when I put the D1 plates on so that it adds nearly another inch in the rear. I'm also going to do some steel braided brake lines when I have the money because 3.5 is a lot of lift on factory lines, especially with no rear sway and disconnects on the front. And finally, here is the picture of my truck!
Ok, here we go. For the rear, you need longer grade 8 bolts. Completely forgot what size, but I'll find it and edit back for you. I used a polyurethane pallet jack wheel with a 4" diameter rated at 30k lbs. I cut it into two 2.5" length pieces using a standard chop saw with a wood blade. Go slow and it actually cuts really well. Then it just goes under the rear spring plate and bolts down. You can use metal or polyurethane, use something else if you're feeling adventurous and be sure to post us some pictures of what you come up with! Here's mine installed.
Ok, for the front we are actually doing springs. No spacers here. I used a set of factory rear springs off of my parts truck. They do have the flat bottom, but they actually fit fine in the factory spring plates as long as you still place the end of the coil where it would go with the factory spring. You can see what I'm talking about in the following pictures.
This is very simple, I did it with a buddy in my school parking lot. I will admit, I did not replace my shocks. I need to VERY badly, but they weren't in the budget yet. You need 2 jacks, 2 jack stands, one friend in case you drop the truck on yourself, a socket set, an 18mm ratcheting box wrench, a 13mm or 1/2" ratcheting box wrench, and probably some PB blaster. I would like to note, you do NOT need to remove the front crossmember OR the front driveshaft. Just use your bottle jack and the axle will pivot on the driveshaft, no issue.
This achieved 2.5" of lift in the rear, and a whopping 3.5" in the front. For that reason, I very much recommend getting Discovery 1 spring plates for the rear. I got my set from Paul Grant, though I have not yet installed them. I am also going to use an extra spring isolator on the bottom of the rear spring when I put the D1 plates on so that it adds nearly another inch in the rear. I'm also going to do some steel braided brake lines when I have the money because 3.5 is a lot of lift on factory lines, especially with no rear sway and disconnects on the front. And finally, here is the picture of my truck!
Last edited by Alex_M; 09-28-2015 at 04:18 PM.
#2
09-28-2015, 04:32 PM
Did you have room for the bottom of the shock? Is there a way for you to counterbore the urethane wheel center? It appears the shock would bottom on the spacer before it would nest into place.
That is if you were to use it in front.
That is if you were to use it in front.
Last edited by rtonder; 09-28-2015 at 04:34 PM. Reason: Clicked to soon.
#7
09-28-2015, 07:52 PM
#9
09-28-2015, 10:47 PM
Yea, hockey pucks are 3" diameter instead of 4. They would work, but I didn't trust them to be quite as stable under hard articulation even though there would likely be no issue. I've also seen 3.5" poly jack points for miatas and the like which I would tryst since they're a little larger. The wheel what a completely random idea. I was just kinda browsing eBay and it popped up and was like "Hot d*mn. That just might work!"
Last edited by Alex_M; 09-28-2015 at 10:50 PM.
