Specifically, 2/3 of my pedal travel is wasted. My mech checked the rotors and pads and says they seem to have decent remaining material, but... nah; this is just not good.

And, of course, after I took it to the dealer for it's Used Car Inspection -- and after they found out I'd have to *put off* a front-driveshaft replacement ($1300) for a week or so, instead of just whippin' out the ole' checkbook -- now it's slightly to seriously worse than the stable mediocrely bad it was all last week since I bought it.

I did check the fluid when I bought it, and the level seemed acceptably high, though the cap gasket may be going.

I notice also that the dealer didn't do an acidity test strip on the brake fluid in *my* car.... :-P

(Ok, you can't edit the title. "Brakes"

 

bleed air out of brake system ($5 for new DOT4 fluid)
remove front shaft and have U-joints/center ball replaced (@ $200)

 

I was actually going to have him do a complete flush, but the mech at Dimmitt says that, for his part, even after that, he's not himself all that happy with the pedal response.

As for the front shaft, that's half of what AB wants for a new one, and my mechanic's pretty cheap.

So, anyone with *non*-obvious answers? :-)

 

DII brakes are a bit sloppy but a full quart flush should help. If that is not good enough try a new master cylinder and stainless steel brake lines. Don't buy a new driveshaft as you will just have to rebuild it again with greasable u-joints. As said above a rebuild is about $200 or DIY for $75.

 

The AB one doesn't *come* with greasable U-joints? Really? Wow. Ok.

I'll hunt up a driveline rebuilder Monday. Tnx.

 

Yeah they come with the "lifetime" sealed u-joints. If you want a new one a tom woods is $350 shipped from roverguy.com. It is a beast of a driveshaft, even the centering ball is greasable.

 

I had heard Tom mentioned, but no one had put up the URL; thanks.

 

SLOPPY!!!!



bwhahahahahahhahaha

 

you've been drinking tonight sloppy?

 

http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html Here is the link to Tom Woods... far and away the best way to go... super beefy, but overkill for the average Joe.

I have always had soft brakes on my rovers, but I come from the jeep world where a rover on a bad day is way better than anything Jeep. We spend half the time putting disks in the rear, amping up the master cylinder etc...

For my rover, I did replace the rotors with slotted and did the ebc brake kit with a proper flush and bleed and I thought it was good as new... I did notice a big difference when I got rid of those dust shields too, seemed to do more harm than good... for what its worth. But nontheless, there still seems to be a good little bit of travel.