Engine stops - No Codes
 

Engine runs for 10-15 minutes and stops then it won't start. After 20 minutes or so, engine will start without problem, after 10-15 minutes it'll stop again - no codes show up. Anyone have a solution? John

crank shaft position sensor maybe? also called cps sensor

Get a scanner and check for an RPM reading while cranking (when it doesnt want to start). 0 RPM while cranking will likely be the crank position sensor.
FYI apparently it is not uncommon to get a bad new sensor... I got a new bosch one that did not work out of the box. Second one working now no problem.

Just experienced the same thing 3 times today, runs for 10 or 15, stops (no start despite good crank) then recovers a bit later... 91k miles is this definitely the CPS?

Thanks

There's no definitely anything on a forum. The suggested use of the scanner will answer that question.

I had a non-rover car do basically this same thing. Oddly enough it was very strange fuel pump problem. Bang on the tank a few times and it would run fine for a while, then die, crank fine but no start.....bang on the tank, repeat cycle. They wave tested the fuel pump and it tested fine, but decided to try a fuel pump since the banging on the tank got it going every time. Seemed odd to me, but the car runs fine now with the new fuel pump.

CPS or not CPS
 

I bought a CPS yesterday and will install it soon, I'll report the outcome. John

They say you can connect a scanner and if not getting any rpm reading on the scanner while cranking the engine over then the crank sensor is not reporting the rpm and that would mean the crank sensor is bad. You will need a scanner that gives you live rpm.
also some have put in a new crank sensor and the connector was not snapped in tight causing the crank sensor to appear bad.

Trip to Auto Zone and dropped $59 for the sensor (lifetime warranty). After initial doubt about getting to that connector I dove in (car on ramps) and was able to release the clip with finger on the CPS sensor side of the connector and pull down to separate the halves. I should mention that I first removed the CPS heat shield, spacers and CPS so it was free and the cable had some more freedom. Very tricky to get new CPS side connector to mate with engine side connector as nothing is holding it from the top..once mated (loosely) I was able to wedge the upper engine side connector against the underside of the block holding clip and then with one finger holding that push the new CPS side connecter against that and hear the click!
I then put back the CPS over its mount, spacers and heat shield.

The only thing I was not able to do was to slide the fully mated connector back into that clip that is supposed to hold it next to the block.. I am not to worried about this due to the fact that the original CPS was outside of this clip (from factory perhaps) and it seems to be fairly well constrained and it clipped together.. I will have to get one of the ultra long needle nose (slight angle) pliers to try to get the assembled connector back into that clip at some point.

Summary... new CPS fixed 15minute timeout issue. 2 Hours on my back.

Also...Many thanks to LR engineers for not lowering the clip another inch or so! :rolleyes:

welcome to the world of land rover. :) tight spots for everything that needs to be replaced. and the things that dont need replaced. have the easiest access points. lol.

glad the CPS sensor got you all fixed up.

Hopefully it will fix john47uk's problem too.

:D

Autozone's Duralast SU5570 did it for me
 

Thanks MetalMarine for telling me about CPS.

teeboli, I used the 'clip' to hold the Connector (from the CPS) and managed to squeeze my arm (up to my elbow) between the block and the exhaust pipe - if my forearm was any bigger than 11.5 inches around, I couldn't have done it without removing that pipe. After ten minutes or so, fiddling around trying to mate the connectors they finally clicked in to place.

My summary: 30 minutes trying to find the CPS. At least, two hours on my back after that.