Failed TX inspection
#12
While I am all for doing whatever you want to your own car, whats the point of having inspections if you can easily get around them?
#13
#14
I'm beginning to think someone has jacked with my wiring at one point.
I found some suspicious connections on the BROWN-PINK wire, which are supposed to be the grounds for the SAI solenoid and EVAP Purge.
I'm not an electrical whiz, but i think PIN1 and PIN2 are reversed on the plug for the Purge Valve. The reason I think this.
First, the BROWN-PINK wire on the purge valve is going into PIN1, and BROWN-RED is going into PIN2. The ECU Manual says color "NR" goes to PIN2... Not sure what color "NR" is..
2nd.
When I plug the + on my multimeter into PIN1, and connect to Body Ground, I get 5V.
When I plug the + on my multimeter into PIN2, and connect to Body Ground, I get full 12V.
RAVE says, that PIN1 is supposed to be 12V, and PIN2 comes from ECU.
I'm not sure how the wires would get crossed.
Am I reading this right? Can I just clip and reverse the wires close to the plug, in order to get the 12V into PIN1 and ECM into PIN2?
For reference, the SAI Solenoid plug appears to be wired correctly (12V in PIN1).
Thanks
I found some suspicious connections on the BROWN-PINK wire, which are supposed to be the grounds for the SAI solenoid and EVAP Purge.
I'm not an electrical whiz, but i think PIN1 and PIN2 are reversed on the plug for the Purge Valve. The reason I think this.
First, the BROWN-PINK wire on the purge valve is going into PIN1, and BROWN-RED is going into PIN2. The ECU Manual says color "NR" goes to PIN2... Not sure what color "NR" is..
2nd.
When I plug the + on my multimeter into PIN1, and connect to Body Ground, I get 5V.
When I plug the + on my multimeter into PIN2, and connect to Body Ground, I get full 12V.
RAVE says, that PIN1 is supposed to be 12V, and PIN2 comes from ECU.
I'm not sure how the wires would get crossed.
Am I reading this right? Can I just clip and reverse the wires close to the plug, in order to get the 12V into PIN1 and ECM into PIN2?
For reference, the SAI Solenoid plug appears to be wired correctly (12V in PIN1).
Thanks
#16
#18
re: BROWN-RED is going into PIN2. The ECU Manual says color "NR" goes to PIN2... Not sure what color "NR" is..
Brown & Red = "NR" in Roverspeak.
The Rover color code, translated from the original Klingon, is:
B - Black
G - Green
P - pinK
L - Light
N - browN
O - Orange u glad U red dis?
P - Purple
R - Red
S - slate (gray)
U - blUe
W - White
Y - Yellow
Brown & Red = "NR" in Roverspeak.
The Rover color code, translated from the original Klingon, is:
B - Black
G - Green
P - pinK
L - Light
N - browN
O - Orange u glad U red dis?
P - Purple
R - Red
S - slate (gray)
U - blUe
W - White
Y - Yellow
#19
P1412 & P1415 fix
Just thought I would update the thread.
P1412 and P1415 are now solved. Inspection passed!
Unsure about the status of P0441.
Turns out the vacuum canister for the SAI was backwards!!! It was on suck, instead of blow.
I thought I would post some of the troubleshooting steps we took to figure out the SAI vacuum issue, leading to the determination the canister was bad.
-disconnect vacuum hoses from Air Manifold
-disconnect vacuum hose from intake manifold.
-grab a spare piece of hose, and hook up to the intake manifold vacuum port
-hook other end up to air manifold, you should hear a difference in the exhaust, you should also notice the O2 sensor running lean if you have a computer hooked up. this indicates that the vacuum is opening the manifold, and it is not stuck shut.
-repeat for the other side.
-if all is well, proceed, if not, then need to figure out how to unstick/replace manifold ($$$)
-from here, check to make sure the brittle plastic tubes are not cracked, and can hold a vacuum.
-now connect the same spare vacuum test hose to either one side of the canister, and see if you are getting vacuum out the other side.
-if not, then look at your canister, and there should be markings on it indicating the flow direction, and which side should be connected to the vacuum. ensure it is on there properly (in my case the canister was backwards, so when we hooked up the vacuum to the canister, nothing was coming out the other end. we hooked the vacuum to the opposite end and whah-la, it was flowing. after a few head scratches it turns out the mounting bracket for the canister was on upside down, which would cause the canister to be facing the wrong way. A quick flip of the mount bracket, replace the canister with the proper flow direction and all is well in SAI land)
-of course, ensure that your vacuum cleaner is running (power, etc.)
-also check/replace the filter for the vacuum cleaner. I think there is a thread on here how to do that. Basically remove the vacuum cleaner, pop off the housing, remove the shredded up original black filter, go to home depot and buy 1x1x1 air conditioner window unit stuff, use that to make a new filter (you can't just buy a new filter from LR, they will gladly sell you an entire new pump though). replace the unit and ensure you put the canister back on in the right direction :-)
I'm sure I left some steps out, but thought I would do a little brain dump as this caused so many headaches for me, and I know others.
P1412 and P1415 are now solved. Inspection passed!
Unsure about the status of P0441.
Turns out the vacuum canister for the SAI was backwards!!! It was on suck, instead of blow.
I thought I would post some of the troubleshooting steps we took to figure out the SAI vacuum issue, leading to the determination the canister was bad.
-disconnect vacuum hoses from Air Manifold
-disconnect vacuum hose from intake manifold.
-grab a spare piece of hose, and hook up to the intake manifold vacuum port
-hook other end up to air manifold, you should hear a difference in the exhaust, you should also notice the O2 sensor running lean if you have a computer hooked up. this indicates that the vacuum is opening the manifold, and it is not stuck shut.
-repeat for the other side.
-if all is well, proceed, if not, then need to figure out how to unstick/replace manifold ($$$)
-from here, check to make sure the brittle plastic tubes are not cracked, and can hold a vacuum.
-now connect the same spare vacuum test hose to either one side of the canister, and see if you are getting vacuum out the other side.
-if not, then look at your canister, and there should be markings on it indicating the flow direction, and which side should be connected to the vacuum. ensure it is on there properly (in my case the canister was backwards, so when we hooked up the vacuum to the canister, nothing was coming out the other end. we hooked the vacuum to the opposite end and whah-la, it was flowing. after a few head scratches it turns out the mounting bracket for the canister was on upside down, which would cause the canister to be facing the wrong way. A quick flip of the mount bracket, replace the canister with the proper flow direction and all is well in SAI land)
-of course, ensure that your vacuum cleaner is running (power, etc.)
-also check/replace the filter for the vacuum cleaner. I think there is a thread on here how to do that. Basically remove the vacuum cleaner, pop off the housing, remove the shredded up original black filter, go to home depot and buy 1x1x1 air conditioner window unit stuff, use that to make a new filter (you can't just buy a new filter from LR, they will gladly sell you an entire new pump though). replace the unit and ensure you put the canister back on in the right direction :-)
I'm sure I left some steps out, but thought I would do a little brain dump as this caused so many headaches for me, and I know others.
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Doogwhan
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09-16-2015 11:14 AM