few discovery questions
 

Im looking at 96 discovery and it had a few issues, i wanted to know if ou guys knew what they were and how to fix them.

diff lock is stuck in bottom right, wont move at all
rear cargo door wont open
corrosion on battery terminals and its a new battery, so he says
when you use the blinkers they work but the interior hazard light on the dash blinks, rather than a right n left arrow.
right power mirror dosent work, left does
passenger window came off track

I also need a carfax on it if anyone can help #SALJY1248TA523180

thanks for the help
-Kyle

diff lock is stuck in bottom right, wont move at all- common issue, lube up the trans case linkage and keep trying. If it still won't budge you can replace the linkage or just ignore it if you don't plan on using the diff lock.

rear cargo door wont open- pop off LR emblem and lube it up, another common problem.

corrosion on battery terminals and its a new battery, so he says-not sure on this one, probably minor though.

when you use the blinkers they work but the interior hazard light on the dash blinks- both of the blinkers light up the same one, 2 arrows pointing left and right inside a box.

right power mirror dosent work, left does- Does the right mirror shake at all while driving? Does the motor make a noise when you push the button? Mine popped off the little bracket and would shake badly while driving and the motor wouldn't turn it, I just pushed it back into it's spot and it worked fine.

passenger window came off track- probably needs a new regulator, another common problem. open up the door panel and have a look around in there.

Also just so you know you need to use premium gas, no exceptions, and save a few hundred bucks to do DiscoMike's 60k list (stickied at top) as soon as you get it to bring all maintenance up to date. Also pics :D

haha thanks alot that really helped, as for the mirror it didnt shake idk about noise though. my sister has one so i know about premium and i have no problem doing this. how much would all this cost to repair roughly? also my main concern is the battery, i dont want it dying on me, it will be my DD. As for pics ill get em up if i buy it, exterior is fairly good, interior alright and 117XXX miles, hes sellin for 2500, got him to 2000. good deal overall or should i keep my blazer?:p

P.S. anyone with a extra carfax that will give me it please do, i will be very grateful

There's $2000 in parts alone under the hood + body panels so I'd call that a great deal, absolutely. The battery issue I'm not positive about. If it were my truck I'd probably just run a load test on the battery and alternator, assuming they came back ok I'd say everything's fine there. For a new window regulator it depends where you can get it. If you have a junk yard near you with a DI in it, grab the window regulators from there, I got mine for $20, just make sure it's the right part, LR changed them I think from '95 to '96. If you want a new one check atlanticbritish.com, but they could run ~$100 each.

Overall, with the 60k maintenance and the various repairs you'll make at first I'd say $500, but that could change once you get it and take a real good look around it. But for now plan on no more than $500.

ok thanks, now all i need is a very nice person willing to lend a carfax haha

forgot to mention, brake pedal jumps some when applied. whats that mean?

The brake issue is a nice cheap and easy fix.
open the hood and on the passenger fender is a fuse box, open it and find teh fuse marked "ABS", remove fuse.
Close fuse box, close hood, problem solved.
The ABS modulator is bad and that will set you back $1500.

There are no separate left and right turn signal on the dash, left and right blink at the same time.
There is a separate hazard triangle on the dash for when the hazards are on.

As for the battery, unless he cleaned the cables they will still have corrosion on them even with a brand new battery.

i doubt he cleaned the cables but idk i can ask, the corosion was decent on the terminals tho for a new battery. could there be a short somewhere?

The only thing a short would do is drain the battery.
Battery terminal/cable corrosion is a normal part of battery usage and you cannot tell how old a battery is or what shape it is in by corrosion on the cables.
The vapors from he battery react with the lead terminals and corrode.
Yes they should be cleaned once and awhile, the corrosion can wick its way down the inside of your battery cable rendering the whole cable useless.
This is why GM switched to side terminal batteries, less corrosion.
Worse case scenario you buy a $10 battery cable.
Look at the battery, does it look new?
Where did he get it from?
I would not worry about the battery corrosion.

ok thank you, you guys are making me want this deal more and more every post. You guys are all very helpful. I'll ask about the battery. also what will pulling the fuse do other than stop the shaking pedal? will something not work after that?