Change the oil before you start it

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...ce44fa26be.jpg
I'm sure I won't be sleepy or bored tonight!!!
I was all ready to start it last night but I am short a couple pints of the break-in oil so it will be this evening! Exciting times!
I pressure tested the cooling system, it held 1.7 bars for 30 minutes after I replaced the clamp on the throttle-body warmer plate, and nothing came out the oil drain plug or oil filter housing when I opened that so the front cover seems good :)
I even have the hood back on otherwise my garage door can't open with the hood sitting on top of the roof of the D2! (Crazy how much darker the engine bay gets with that hood on!)
Now it will be for the oil pressure and the rest of the engine to be good to go! I filled up the oil filter and will put the VR1 oil in.
One more question, after the initial break-in and oil change, should I do the first fill with that high zinc break-in oil for 500 to 1000 miles or do I go straight to my synthetic regular running oil?

After the initial break in of my Turner, I did a regular oil change for 500, then regular again for 1000, then regular again for 3000, and now I do synthetic Rotella T6 every 5000. Cheers!

It lives!
 

Sweet!

only thing, I rebuilt the power steering pump with the ebay kit. There might be air in there. I will have to see to bleed that if it doesn't go away in the next few rides... or maybe the PAS pump rebuild didn't go that well ;)

Excellent!

Awesome! But why would you go and put synthetic oil in a flat tappet pushrod V8 from the 60's?