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The fix
just thought I would start something new please let us know your problems you had with your disco 2 and what was the fix ??? I had several o2 sensor faults my fix was the fuel purge valve sometimes sticking open bought a Hyundai purge valve and fixed |
Broken....everything
The fix.....$$$$$$$$ |
P1590 - Sticking slides on caliper.
Removed caliper from bracket and removed pads. Cleaned from pads, bracket and caliper. Installed anti-seize on pad slide area, pad backing to caliper and bracket and re-assembled. |
p1590 -- rough road signal implausible.
read the abs codes to find out which wheel was the culprit (left front) and the replaced the hub. 2 hours, $65, problem solved. |
Thought my block had cracked after my rebuild because white smoke started pouring out of the exhaust along with drops of what I thought was coolant dripping out of the tailpipe, too.
Oh no. Oil change shop had used the wrong oil. They filled her up with synthetic 0 weight oil. Took a couple of days of driving and then the smoke hit. Probably because the old oil was fully displaced by then and gaskets/seals breached by the super-thin synthetic oil. Changed back to proper conventional dino 10W40 oil and after 30 seconds of idling, no more smoke or "coolant" drops out of the tailpipe. That was synthetic oil dripping before! NOTE: I had no misfires or overheating. Head gasket failures or cracked blocks are going to cause overheating or misfires, etc. |
Originally Posted by No Doubt
(Post 675359)
Thought my block had cracked after my rebuild because white smoke started pouring out of the exhaust along with drops of what I thought was coolant dripping out of the tailpipe, too.
Oh no. Oil change shop had used the wrong oil. They filled her up with synthetic 0 weight oil. Took a couple of days of driving and then the smoke hit. Probably because the old oil was fully displaced by then and gaskets/seals breached by the super-thin synthetic oil. Changed back to proper conventional dino 10W40 oil and after 30 seconds of idling, no more smoke or "coolant" drops out of the tailpipe. That was synthetic oil dripping before! NOTE: I had no misfires or overheating. Head gasket failures or cracked blocks are going to cause overheating or misfires, etc. didnt think oil would do that much difference I use 5w and 10 w 30 or 40 synthetic |
Thin synthetic is for modern engines. Not these beasts.
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Originally Posted by Dave03S
(Post 675392)
Thin synthetic is for modern engines. Not these beasts.
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Originally Posted by Friday Night Disco
(Post 675395)
I disagree but, oil is like politics |
Originally Posted by No Doubt
(Post 675359)
Thought my block had cracked after my rebuild because white smoke started pouring out of the exhaust along with drops of what I thought was coolant dripping out of the tailpipe, too.
Oh no. Oil change shop had used the wrong oil. They filled her up with synthetic 0 weight oil. Took a couple of days of driving and then the smoke hit. Probably because the old oil was fully displaced by then and gaskets/seals breached by the super-thin synthetic oil. Changed back to proper conventional dino 10W40 oil and after 30 seconds of idling, no more smoke or "coolant" drops out of the tailpipe. That was synthetic oil dripping before! NOTE: I had no misfires or overheating. Head gasket failures or cracked blocks are going to cause overheating or misfires, etc. My block has however cracked, and behind the sleeves. After talking with Extinct, it seems my best option is a quality(hasn't been overheated) 4.0 short block, and transfer my pistons, rings, wristpins, rods, cam, rod and main, bearings, and 4.6 crank. Apparently the blocks are the same, and the early models don't have the casting flaws of the later models(4.6). The extra displacement of the 4.6 is from the stroke only, and the 4.6 crank fits the 4.0 block with no modifications. He has a used parts LR guy that has several good 4.0 short blocks. So, a 4.0 block, ARP head studs, and I'm still seriously considering the cometic head gaskets. It's looking like I'm going to save my Disco too! |
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