front brake rotors: turn or replace: $30 rotors OK?
#11
I don't know if any of you guys had considered this, but Amazon turns out to be a great place to get rotors and pads (and probably a lot more) for cheap. I have Amazon prime (half off for like $40 a year) so I get free UPS ground shipping and I got Raybestos Professional Grade rotors all the way around for $120 total, but the rear akebono pads (fronts are fine) were $55 on their own. Anybody else use Amazon Prime to get their stuff?
#12
Lots of change-outs, no problems?
So,
All you guys are saying you changed this and that, but none of you are even mentioning you had any issues with torquing bolts or lubing parts? None of you home guys had any issues? Are all of you former LR techs? I mean, my guy is not an idiot as far as I know, so why am I having all these problems?
I just had the damn pad sensor light come on after only 2K miles? The vibration is bad!
I have a call in to my mechanic to find out all the details on my rotors and pads, but they were all new OEM parts...
All you guys are saying you changed this and that, but none of you are even mentioning you had any issues with torquing bolts or lubing parts? None of you home guys had any issues? Are all of you former LR techs? I mean, my guy is not an idiot as far as I know, so why am I having all these problems?
I just had the damn pad sensor light come on after only 2K miles? The vibration is bad!
I have a call in to my mechanic to find out all the details on my rotors and pads, but they were all new OEM parts...
#13
I just did my front and rear brakes yesterday. Truck has 284000 kms on it (whatever that means in miles) and I didn't have a problem getting a single rusty bolt out. I didn't use any air or power tools either. I only had difficulty getting the front rotors off, I called TRS here in Calgary and was told to use a bigger hammer and swing for the fences. Rotors came off eventually.
When I was buttoning everything up, I used a bit of anti-seize on all the parts. So far after about 50kms of driving I have no lights on the dash or issues with my brakes.
When I was buttoning everything up, I used a bit of anti-seize on all the parts. So far after about 50kms of driving I have no lights on the dash or issues with my brakes.
#14
I was on the fence on this issue, turned vs new. My front wheels had to be cleaned from brake dust, weekly. i stumbled upon a new set of EBC (GDC rear) rotors on Craigslist for 100.00, new in box. Then I found a matching set for the front for 125.00. I took DiscoMike's advice(and others) and got the Akebono Euro Ceramic pads from Amazon and paid 30.00 for the front(open box) and a set of rear pads, both from Amazon.
CaptainCulp- I have used Amazon Prime for many years, and 8 out of 10 times, they are the lowest price delivered to my door, and in 2-3 days. I also enjoy the streaming movies that is part of the Amazon Prime package.
CaptainCulp- I have used Amazon Prime for many years, and 8 out of 10 times, they are the lowest price delivered to my door, and in 2-3 days. I also enjoy the streaming movies that is part of the Amazon Prime package.
#15
If the rotors have not previously been turned then they are most likely good to go for 1 round of machining. If and when you do purchase a new set of rotors, I suggest that you not buy the cheapest available. Remember, you get what you pay for. One of the first times I did a brake job (on a vehicle much lighter in weight than a Disco) and installed a cheap pair of rotors, I had to remove them and return in exchange for the most expensive because my truck was shaking so bad during the initial test drive. Too much time and work to do it all twice. Buy quality parts the first go-round.
#16
So,
All you guys are saying you changed this and that, but none of you are even mentioning you had any issues with torquing bolts or lubing parts? None of you home guys had any issues? Are all of you former LR techs? I mean, my guy is not an idiot as far as I know, so why am I having all these problems?
I just had the damn pad sensor light come on after only 2K miles? The vibration is bad!
I have a call in to my mechanic to find out all the details on my rotors and pads, but they were all new OEM parts...
All you guys are saying you changed this and that, but none of you are even mentioning you had any issues with torquing bolts or lubing parts? None of you home guys had any issues? Are all of you former LR techs? I mean, my guy is not an idiot as far as I know, so why am I having all these problems?
I just had the damn pad sensor light come on after only 2K miles? The vibration is bad!
I have a call in to my mechanic to find out all the details on my rotors and pads, but they were all new OEM parts...
#17
There are minimum thicknesses shown in the RAVE manual. Turning them down slightly, I repeat, slightly, is good as the rotors are castings and suffer from heat stress relief distortion whereas turning them gets rid of any high spots and distortion, possibly for good, similar to cast iron exhaust manifolds. You'll need a medium sized lathe and dial gauge plus a micrometer. Always clock up the rotors on the locating face and never on the friction face, for obvious reasons. If you have the kit and time it's well worthwhile. Good luck.
#19
There are minimum thicknesses shown in the RAVE manual. Turning them down slightly, I repeat, slightly, is good as the rotors are castings and suffer from heat stress relief distortion whereas turning them gets rid of any high spots and distortion, possibly for good, similar to cast iron exhaust manifolds. You'll need a medium sized lathe and dial gauge plus a micrometer. Always clock up the rotors on the locating face and never on the friction face, for obvious reasons. If you have the kit and time it's well worthwhile. Good luck.
#20
for the 95 percent of us that don't have a medium-sized lathe lying around, you can drop it off by most O'reillys Auto locations. I used Napa about 10 or 15 years ago, I don't know how many locations serve this need anymore. Oreillys did mine the other day for $12 or $15 apiece
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