Front Crank Main Seal
#1
Front Crank Main Seal
So I've got a nice oil leak from what I'm pretty sure is the front crank seal. About 15k miles ago I did my HGs, and when I did that I replaced the front cover (long story) and installed a new seal at that time. I'm not entirely sure I did it properly, since it shouldn't be worn out at this time.
It doesn't seem like to bad of a job to fix, but I'm just wondering if there are possible issues I could be facing since its leaking again so soon. I used a seal puller last time, but I remember it being very difficult to remove. I also wasn't sure if there was a "right" way to re-install the new seal.
Thoughts/tip/tricks?
It doesn't seem like to bad of a job to fix, but I'm just wondering if there are possible issues I could be facing since its leaking again so soon. I used a seal puller last time, but I remember it being very difficult to remove. I also wasn't sure if there was a "right" way to re-install the new seal.
Thoughts/tip/tricks?
#2
Use a seal driver, or a flat smooth piece of metal or wood.
Something that applies pressure evenly to the outer rigid edge of the seal, and make sure it seats flush.
Put a small amount of oil on your finger and rub it around the inner seal lip and crankshaft snout, so that seal slides easily over the crank without stretching or tearing.
Inspect the crank for burrs or gouges, and clean it with a scotchbrite pad, something that will get any crud off without removing material(as in don't use coarse sand paper).
Try to install the cover as straight and squared as possible to avoid flexing the inner seal more than it's meant to move.
Also, if you have the 3 factory studs in the bottom of the timing cover, you'll have to drop the oil pan(which can be done in the truck, and it's wise to replace the pick-up tube o-ring as well, and clean the pick-up screen).
If you or someone before put bolts in place of the studs, congratulations, the job just got alot faster and easier.
If not, for a couple bucks at the hardware store, it's worth putting bolts back in place of the studs.
Something that applies pressure evenly to the outer rigid edge of the seal, and make sure it seats flush.
Put a small amount of oil on your finger and rub it around the inner seal lip and crankshaft snout, so that seal slides easily over the crank without stretching or tearing.
Inspect the crank for burrs or gouges, and clean it with a scotchbrite pad, something that will get any crud off without removing material(as in don't use coarse sand paper).
Try to install the cover as straight and squared as possible to avoid flexing the inner seal more than it's meant to move.
Also, if you have the 3 factory studs in the bottom of the timing cover, you'll have to drop the oil pan(which can be done in the truck, and it's wise to replace the pick-up tube o-ring as well, and clean the pick-up screen).
If you or someone before put bolts in place of the studs, congratulations, the job just got alot faster and easier.
If not, for a couple bucks at the hardware store, it's worth putting bolts back in place of the studs.
Last edited by Sixpack577; 11-22-2019 at 11:17 AM.
#3
And
If the i.d of the seal hole in the front cover has any visible knicks, gouges, chips, minor damage of any kind, it's not a bad idea to run a bead of rtv silicone around it before putting the new seal in.
Then simply wipe away any rtv that pushes out the other side. Not normally needed, but good and harmless insurance to keep any oil from seaping between the cover and seal.
If the i.d of the seal hole in the front cover has any visible knicks, gouges, chips, minor damage of any kind, it's not a bad idea to run a bead of rtv silicone around it before putting the new seal in.
Then simply wipe away any rtv that pushes out the other side. Not normally needed, but good and harmless insurance to keep any oil from seaping between the cover and seal.
#4
#5
Do you have to remove the front cover to replace that seal? I thought you could just take off the harmonic balancer to access the seal?
I'm not leaking from around the front cover or its gasket. Its coming from the crank main seal and getting blown back across my oil pan.
I'm not leaking from around the front cover or its gasket. Its coming from the crank main seal and getting blown back across my oil pan.
#6
The crank pulley bolt needs 200 ft lbs too.
You can pull the starter and put a prybar phrough a hole in the flywheel to keep it from turning.
You could get it on a flywheel tooth through an access plug, but I wouldn't want to risk breaking a tooth with that much force applied either.
And, with an with an impact wrench, you never know how much force you're applying, and not all impacts will even fit with the radiator in.
With the oil pan dropped, you can jam a block of wood between a crank journal and the block, to keep the crank from turning while you tighten it.
You can pull the starter and put a prybar phrough a hole in the flywheel to keep it from turning.
You could get it on a flywheel tooth through an access plug, but I wouldn't want to risk breaking a tooth with that much force applied either.
And, with an with an impact wrench, you never know how much force you're applying, and not all impacts will even fit with the radiator in.
With the oil pan dropped, you can jam a block of wood between a crank journal and the block, to keep the crank from turning while you tighten it.
Last edited by Sixpack577; 11-22-2019 at 12:27 PM.
#7
You can definitely do it from the front, pull off the crank pulley and use an appropriate seal removed to pull it out and then drive the new one in with a piece of PVC pipe, sized appropriately.
Be aware, it is possible for the snout of the crank pulley to wear a groove where the seal is supposed to ride, and that will cause leaks. If there is a groove, try and polish it down and adjust the depth of the seal in/out to avoid it
Be aware, it is possible for the snout of the crank pulley to wear a groove where the seal is supposed to ride, and that will cause leaks. If there is a groove, try and polish it down and adjust the depth of the seal in/out to avoid it
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Sixpack577 (11-22-2019)
#8
You can thread in a couple small self tapping screws into the old seal too. Then pull on the screws with pliers or vice grips.
There's nothing behind it you can damage with them, and it can really help pulling a stubborn seal out.
Especially since the crankshaft will still be in the seal's center.
There's nothing behind it you can damage with them, and it can really help pulling a stubborn seal out.
Especially since the crankshaft will still be in the seal's center.
#9
You can definitely do it from the front, pull off the crank pulley and use an appropriate seal removed to pull it out and then drive the new one in with a piece of PVC pipe, sized appropriately.
Be aware, it is possible for the snout of the crank pulley to wear a groove where the seal is supposed to ride, and that will cause leaks. If there is a groove, try and polish it down and adjust the depth of the seal in/out to avoid it
Be aware, it is possible for the snout of the crank pulley to wear a groove where the seal is supposed to ride, and that will cause leaks. If there is a groove, try and polish it down and adjust the depth of the seal in/out to avoid it
#10