Front prop shaft stuck to transfer case (really stuck)
 

This is my first post, but after purchasing a Disco 2 for $500 two months ago I've spent countless hours reading this forum.

Current problem is that the front driveshaft is stuck, and I mean REALLY stuck to the transfer case. I've spent hours, twisting, taping, banging, lubing, pulling, crying, yelling, etc. The thing just won't budge.

The prop shaft was replaced with a greasable after market shaft about 3 years ago, but had not been serviced in over 30,000 miles. So my plan was to remove it, replace the u-joints, clean and grease both the centering ball and the shaft port. I've got all 8 bolts off but the thing just won't budge.

Any suggestions?

2002 Disco 2
140K miles.
Work done since purchase:
new water pump, rebuilt brake master cylinder, brake bleed, new wheels/tires, new windshield, Oil Flush, coolant flush,
All previous questions (which were numerous) have been answered without starting a new thread. Thanks Guys!)

I would wedge a pry bar between the u joint and the yolk, and push the drive shaft has a slip joint in it.

Have you tried putting t-case in Neutral, tranny in N , blocking rear wheels and jacking up R passenger FRONT tire and using the tire to rotate the shaft free? Jerk the tire one way then the other. Worked for me.......

^ that ^ usually works

That's a great idea... it'll be the first thing I try when I get home this afternoon.
I'll let you know.

No Dice.

Reconnected the prop shaft to the front differential (T-case side still does not have nuts on it), lifted front passenger tire, placed both T-case and transmission in Neutral and it just spins freely (as it should). Reversing direction quickly has no effect.

Put it in park and repeated and while I now have resistance from the transmission I can't get it to break free.

Why did you suggest putting it in neutral?

I think you need a bigger hammer!:)

I went ahead and disassembled the u-joint closest to the transfer case. I'm going to service the shaft from there, it'll just require assembling the last u-joint on the truck.

Yea I was saying if you did that it should spin freely (N) but you could use the tire to "JerK" it right and left and see if the quick jerking motion would help separate the end of the shaft from the output flange .... I had a similar issue when I bought the rover and it helped release the tension on the flange side. I've had the shaft off several times and it just slides out from the bolts. There is a circular rib ( if u will) on the backside of the shaft that fits into the flange. Possible rusted together? PB blaster squirted on the bolts from the flange?
Something on the backside has to be rusted / heat fused together. It's just metal fitting into metal with the 4 bolts tightening it all together.

Well if you have it all off and there is just the end of the drive-shaft slid over the 4 bolts from the output flange I would just soak the heck out it with PB and let sit overnight. I don't see why a chisel banged between the drive-shaft end and the flange would not separate it.....
If you ever needed to service the Flange ie: seals etc. It would need to come off anyway to get at the large NUT behind the drive-shaft end.