Thanks for the latest suggestions! I will look for broken wires where they go into the door. Sounds like a good possibility.

Both windows were not working when I got the vehicle, so I dont know if they went out at the same time (doubtful) or how long between both going out separately. Next will be to test the motors.

I hadn't heard of the Nanocom. It looks awesome!

 

Be aware of the cost though. Here in Australia, they're around AU$800.

 

It's $425 from the website... https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/shop/browse

 

Thanks for the link.

With delivery it works out at AU$589 from Nanocom. Still too much for me!

 

I would pull the switches out of the center console and check for loose wires, burnt plastic and general security. It’s like 4 screws. I would even do a quick swap and hang test on the switches with the back ones. Could save you some time and money, also not having to worry about the window moisture liner.

 

To revive this thread.

I have the same issue. Bother front windows not working.
There is the clicking in the glove box dash when I hit the switches.
I have 12 v positive and negative at the wiring connector when i hit the switch.
The fuse under the hood is good. F4 or F3 i think. They are all in good conditon and the seat motors work, on the same fuse. Should there be another?

Window motor shows ~3 Ohms when i test it with a mulitmeter.

When I hook a new motor up to the wiring, it does not work with the regulator and window removed. Could I have a DOA motor?

How would I test the motor? Should I be able to connect the motor directly to the car battery, or would that cause some other issue with the motor?

Given both side stopped working, the drivers side failed after the passenger side of I recall correctly. Should there be a common fault somewhere?

The old passenger side motor was rusted solid. I had an earlier post, could that have caused a solenoid to fail?

I see the above wiring diagram, however if I have power at the connection, then the wiring should be fine?

i have cleaned the heck out of the connectors.

Any ideas?

 

I actually get about 5.5v plus and minus, up and down on the windows. I cannot swap the front and rear window switches as both my front windows are not working.
I was able to bench test the motor and it runs fine.

I am guessing that ~5 volts at the wiring harness, plug, is not enough to run the motor.
The fuses and fusible links under the hood are all in good order.

How would the plug only be getting <12 volts, and affect both doors?
A bad ground somwhere?

The diagram above is only maginally helpful to me, not exactly sure how to read it.

 

All the fuses in both compartments are in working order. I still hear the click in the glove box. The drivers side window power source is not powering the new motor when I connect the two. So the drivers side is also not getting enough juice to power a motor. There must be something common between the two that is failing. All the wiring I can see in the dash and the door wiring looms appears to be okay.

Any other advice on how to track this down?