Head bolt question
 

I have taken apart my 02 se7 4.0 disco engine to replace my head gaskets and I'm now rebuilding. I have done the 15 ftlbs + 90° turn + 90° turn.

My question is this: does anyone know what the final ftlbs would be?

I believe that I saw online that its 90nm (wich translates to 66 ftlbs) I want to make sure they are all exactly the same torque,the 90° + 90° turns seems like there could be room for error. Can anyone lend their wisdom on this?

Look up torque to angle or torque to yield head bolts on the forum or google. You did it correctly.

I believe this is the problem with TTY bolts, if there was a final torque value, they would just give it you. I got tired of second guessing angles when doing head bolts and bought a fancy digital torque wrench that does angle calculation as well. I thought I was past angles when I started doing heads on newer models, but no. The new models use an angle sequence as well.

Don't overthink it. Just accept the specified method. It works just fine.

ARB head studs. 60 lbs. no angle, no stretch, no guess work. DONE!

Thanks for all of your input folks, helps put my mind at ease.

Is there a good time during the rebuild process to check compression? I just got the rocker arms on this evening and wondering if at some point I should or could test for proper compression before I get it all back together, hate to over look that until it's back together and have to go back in there. Low compression and a coolant leak led me to rebuild

Right now would be good, since you have the heads and the valve train installed but haven't installed the intake. If the alternator, PS pump and A/C are not yet installed that's okay. You don't need the serp belt installed to do a compression test. You may want to set the valve covers in place without torquing them down. Just put a couple valve cover bolts in place and tighten them lightly. No need to torque them now, and you don't need to install the valve cover gaskets yet.

thanks for the help!

It's actually the opposite. TTY bolts are a new thing that older vehicles don't have. Manufacturers found that they hold better over longer periods, and it's easier to get a consistent torque across the head because you actually pass the bolts yield point , meaning the bolt reaches maximum torque before final rotation, and all the bolts yield at the same point.

They should be close, yeah.

I understand, I didn't think you were. I think that it still allows it to get that much closer, and maintain that similarity despite different conditions sch as temperature, humidity, a little oil in the threads of one bolt, a little coolant or debris in another, etc. It makes the exact torque less specific taking those things more out of consideration.

Also, I believe that over time with repeated hot/cold cycles as the bolts may begin to move a little, they maintain a similar torque because they have a springy-ness to them.

The TTY bolts also help out rebuilding engines in the bush. Very helpful when proper tools are hard to come by. 15ft lbs isn't too hard to achieve with a junk torque wrench from Auto zone. Then a sharpie and big wrench does the rest. I find it very user friendly vs my $600 snap on wrench that I have to send off to get re calibrated a lot.

​​Plus out of curiosity I've "hand tightened" some head bolts then did the 90 degree turns with good success. I wouldn't recommend it, but it works.

​​​​​​​Land Rover 2004 and older have a lot in common with tractors. I love it.

Couple things.
I think it helps save the threads in the block.

I also overcranked a head bolt past the 90, went 180, and the torque on it was the similar as the other ones.

well I was going to say...as I over tightened that bolt it never got any tighter. I think the bolt was stretching as I turned it. Maybe it has something to do with how far the bolt goes in...idk.

So I've been taking my time with this project to ensure that everything was done correctly. Today everything was going good. I changed the oil and started to fill the engine with fresh coolant before I started the up, I go to slide my jack under the front end to raise it up and that's when I saw a puddle of fresh coolant pooling up underneath. It seems as the coolant is running down the right side of the transmission. Any ideas on what the culprit may be? I know that every bolt is torqued to spec and the head bolts were done in the 15 ftlbs and 90° + 90° turns. Feeling pretty crushed and ready to beat the snot out of it with a baseball bat. Any thoughts would greatly be appreciated

I actually found the leak, it's the coolant pipe with the single bolt at the the manifold. I went with a less expensive gasket kit and the 2 o rings for the heater pipes at the manifold and they didn't fit. So I did the big no-no and reused the old orings. Does anyone know what these 2 o rings are called or know their dimensions so I can get the right ones?

I found a o-ring set from all makes 4×4*
Such a relief that I don't have to dismantle the whole engine!

Ace hardware should have an appropriate size o-ring

For the record, the Land Rover part number is ERR 6434.

" ARB head studs. 60 lbs. no angle, no stretch, no guess work. DONE! " Yes, indeed, and most importantly: If you inspect carefully, blocks on these engines, that have cracked to some degree, you will see that the majority of them get cracked right at the base of one or more head bolts. With that it is prudent to ask why, at that particular point would the block crack?---the aluminum block gets one or more hairline cracks on the inner surface of the steel cylinder liner, allowing coolant under pressure to moved upward along the liner, into the cylinder, and/or downward into the oil pan. Because the OEM head bolts tend to exert so much upward pulling stress along the head bolt threads, especially at their base, and because the aluminum block is seriously thin walled at that very point where these bolts thread in, it is prudent to use ARB studs, thick ARB washers, and nuts, which don't exert such extreme stress as do OEM stretch bolts, partially due to the fact that no angle, threat of over torquing, is done, and due to fact the ARB studs exert more even stress.

thanks for the part #.
I have to correct my previous post about finding the set of o rings on all makes 4×4. I found the set at lucky 8,gotta give credit where it's due! And thanks again to everyone who chimed in on this post!

I got her back together yesterday after putting the new water pipe o rings on, primed the engine oil by turning the key for about 12 to 15 seconds ×3, I plugged the fuel fuse and relay back in and primed the fuel system by turning key to accessory and back off ×4, and she started right up on the second try. She ran for about a half hour sitting while I looked for any leaks, got in and drove. I noticed the heat wasn't warm coming from the vents until I started to actually drive. She warmed up eventually and I drove about a mile and a half to the store and back, sitting in my driveway with it still running while I readjusted my stereo settings I noticed the heat ran cold again, so I assumed that there was air in the heater core. Later I went out for a smoke and saw a puddle of coolant, so I start to investigate and couldn't really see much on account it was dark out. This morning I go and have a look, and it appears that I didn't tighten the clamp on the top of t stat tight enough. So after tightening the clamp up,I let the truck run for about 15 minutes and decided to drive around the block. When I turn the heat on it was cold and after driving it a half mile it wanted to over heat, so I let it cool down and* I limped it home after having to stop one more time to cool. I put my alltech scanner on it and it was at 253°.

Should I be looking at the thermostat as the culprit? I have no visible leaks now that the clamp has been tightened. If anyone has some suggestions I'm all ears!

Update
 

So I raised the front end and burped the coolant system, started it up with the bleeder screw out so I could see coolant moving, replaced screw and let it sit at idle for 15 minutes and then drove through town,up and down hills that I wouldn't even think about bicycling up, for another 15 minutes. I had my autel scan tool hooked up and monitoring the coolant temperature, the temp never rose above 208° and at idle it fluctuated between 199° and 201°. Unless I revved the engine and then the temp rose to 210° and the fans kicked on,and then the temps never went above 212°. I have the truck parked facing up a hill in my yard and in the morning I will crack the system open and top off coolant. Seems like I will be driving around with my autel hooked up for a week or 2 until I can pick up a ultragauge lol.

thanks again for everyone's support,advice,and knowledge! I will be back if something disastrous happens, it is a land rover!