A few months ago I was told about a coolant stop leak made by BG, has no metal, aluminum, copper or ceramic of any kind, just their chemicals and a ground up plant fiver. Iy doesn't plug up the radiator or heater core nore will it float around in big clumps like many of the others do.
I have been running it, along with a number of my friends, for the last few months and it does do what it says, Try it.

 

Spike is right that the unused KSeal will float around in suspension. If the cooling system is clear. The problem happens when your lower tubes are already full of dexcool or other sludge, which move water like a damp sponge. Some does get through. Put some sodium silicate in there, and that mud sludge can get sealed up as well. So radiator has a lower percentage of cooling, and you could overheat. If cooling system was perfect, no problem. If already a problem, could be made slighly worse. Running coolant system sealer in a dirty cooling system may not produce the desired results.

Because KSeal has the smallest quantity of material, compared to some systems that are a quart, the possible problems are reduced.

So KSeal or another product in late fall might appear great until next summer when you need a 100% radiator. I'm just saying that Murphy's Law is a multi-volume set, and it is quite possible to have a number of problems or about to be problems at the same time.

Pix of various radiator tube issues, and the water pump on left shows that some stopz leakz coat the entire surfaces of the cooling system, kinda like wearing a sweater in the summer time, makes you hotter.

A front external HG leak is more "manageable" in that it is a steady loss of coolant that can be replaced. But it will need attention at siome point.

 

Thanks for the good input here guys. Just got off the phone with AB and gave them a heads up on shipping me the entire head gasket repair kit. The Indy shop in town is closed on Mondays, but will see about getting it fixed by the end of the week.
Heading to town to find the KSeal or now that Mike has commented, the BG stop leak.

I looked at the Ultragauge web site and did some research on it. For $70 it is a no brainier.
Just was hoping the gauge would do oil pressure and volt meter? Still, I am going to get one for the coolant temp alone.

 

The weather in Denver is so good.
You can change the HG's in the parking lot.
That's what I did.
But, it look me almost two weeks and working at night too.
If you want to give money away -
For $2000 Arapahoe Rover indy shop will fix it for $2,000.
they will install rebuilt heads too.
I met the owner and the guy who works for him.
These guys are on Arapaphoe - right smack in Boulder, CO
Arapahoe Imports - Land Rover Service Boulder Colorado

He takes the heads to some place in Denver. I did not get that figured out.
Nor did I machine my heads. I just put the new gaskets in.

My Disco I had 138,000 and I flipped on new gaskets without machining the heads. That Disco I (hers) now has 162,000 on it.
The wife says "This is a 15 year old car, get RID of it".

She is also not too impressed with my 2001 Disco II.
HG's replaced in Boulder, CO at 97,000 miles. And, it looked like someone had did them before then too - one one of the heads.

I opted to do mine myself.
Personally, I believe in Baar's leaks.
But, Baars did not help the blown HG problem I had.
My Discovery kept pushing out coolant from the coolant tank.

It is a bad design that these engines eat head gaskets - and oh, as a bonus
drop sleeves when they over heat (from the blown head gasket).
Gotta love it.

I drove an old Range Rover with power brake booster motor DEAD
and on 8 cylinders - with Cylinder 1 sucking antifreeze from Seattle WA to
Rochester, NY.

Barr's leaks.
In Chicago - it was like a steam locomotive. Lots of white out the back.
Put in two bottles of Barr's leaks.
By Indiana - it was all good. No white smoke.
That was a 3.9 liter older engine.

You going from VAN to CO?
Coin toss.

I would say - if you can stop the coolant leak in VAN - then you are good to go.
Take it up the hills a few times in VAN to make sure it is fixed.

In the States and in Boulder - it will be cheaper to fix it.
And, these guys will DO a really good job at Arapahoe imports...
NO GST either.
Small place.
Two guys. Easy.

Best,
J

 

As long as your head gasket leak is external, and you frequently bleed the coolant system of air, watch the oil and keep it topped off of coolant you can probably truck on for a while. Though I wouldn't recommend a long journey like that.

 

I'll throw my experience into the ring: I had a slow coolant loss problem that went on for several weeks and a few hundred miles. It quickly and spectacularly turned into a fast coolant loss problem with lots of steam and warning lights flashing (CEL and overtemp light on temperature guage). Did the head gasket replacement myself and all was well for about 1500 miles when the other head gasket went. So, I got to do it all again for the other side. Here is a pic of the portion of the gasket where it failed:

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JdobAI50i1...600/Gasket.JPG

If you're interested in the whole story on the first one, it's here: Home Shop Diary: Discovery Head Gasket

The second one failed in just about the same place...

If it were me, I would strongly consider getting it fixed before your long trip as you have no idea when or where it will eventually let go completely. You may make it all the way to Denver, or.....

Have a safe journey!

 

Spent the morning looking for the Kseal... no where to be found in town.
I went to a DODGE dealership of all places and they had the BG stop leak as per Mike's suggestion, so I put it in, cleaned up what little bit of coolant was on the block and undercarriage and drove it around all afternoon.
I normally would see it after a short drive to town and back. Put many more miles on her today.
No signs of coolant leaking anywhere. I might just make it. lol I am going to give it another day or two before calling it a miracle but as of right now...
all looks good
FYI>>> still on the slate to get the gaskets done ASAP
Thank all you guys for chiming in. This site is a wealth of good information.
Not at all thinking I have fixed my issues but this stuff may have bought me the time I need. Will follow up with what I see with this BG product. seems to be very similar to the Kseal...

 

Forget ultra gauge, scan gauge.....It will turn you into a nervous wreck.... The reason they didn't come with one is that when everything is in good order you don't need "Sh$t".... Get the truck right and get on with your life and quit worring like most on this forum.. They only worry as they bought for nothing and think they can maintain for nothing... Thank good these members don't fly planes...

 

Thank good these members don't fly planes...

Would you fly a powered aircraft without reliable instruments on a frequent basis?

Do you think this is a normal idle temp as indicated by the gauge?

And true, some members buy cheap, and DIY to keep it within budget permitted by SWMBO. We, the unwilling, lead by the unknowing, have done so much for so long with so little we can maintain anything forever with nothing. Others maintain by open check book at the dealer. Ignore temps, and you'll have more repairs. An Ultra Gauge or scanner simply allows the owner to be more informed, and make decisons based on his/her experience and knowledge, not depend on what Rover decided was all you needed to know. But I will agree that this new information, updated in real time, can be distracting to the driver. That is where the programmed alarm point comes in, makes it easy to remind you when to take a second look.

 

Sorry Savahana.. Spell check really screws up my point... " GOD" Like the other member said.." I believe in Bar's leak"... yea, and you better start believing in Evolution... People are way to distracted these days and way to worried about their engine temp... After 12 years of ownership in many ..I still cant shake the occasional glance at the temp.. It's like getting burned bad one time...Alarm is good and i agree..But when you buy a brand new LR off the lot the last thing you are doing is looking at the gauges...

Chris


EMS Installation Part 1 - Engine Monitoring System - YouTube