Head Gasket in a pickel???
 

My 2001 LR Disco had overheating isues and coolant leak. I used Bar Leak
and stopped the coolant leak. I only drew 3 days after that my temp G shot up to red and coolant flushed out from the expansion tank. Finally I did the chemical block test and the result was positive. So I replaced the headgasket and I have the preassure building up and temp keeps climbing up to 217 or more. After doing the chemical blocktest again and the result was positive again, I found out the com. gases building up inside the block. I recall when I was torquing the heads, I misunderstood the torquing
procedure, I torqued 15 ft.Pound, 90 degree turn, another 90 degree turn in one shot instead of doing in three stages, which probably screwd the total torquing and probably coolant leaking from the headgasket internaly though no external leaks. Can anyone suggest any solutions to get out from this pickel. Any suggetions are appreciated.

Did you get the heads machined flat? If not you're going to have to take it all apart again.
If you did, just try taking the plenum and valve covers off and put new bolts in and torque correctly

There is a quick and easy way to patch it, and then there's the right way to do it. I don't even want to suggest the patch job unless you really need the car up and running right away, or you just don't want to put the money into doing it right.

RoverMasterTech gave you the right way to get it done. You would really have to get the entire block removed and have the block honed as well as the heads. Putting perfectly flat heads onto a warped block is going to be of no real benefit, if not make the seal less perfect (since both could have warped together).

I have used a relatively quick and inexpensive fix for people that just don't have the money or inclination to do a proper fix.

Thanks a lot for the information. Yes both the heads were machined, according to the machinist there were no cracks nor they were warped. According to Disco Mike's advise
I should check all the bolts and find out the highest torque setting and retorque all the bolts to the torque setting. So it will be consistent all over. If that fails next best approach
Is to replace the head gaskets and bolts with new ones and torque it right. I will keep everyone updated. Thanks.

Hi Discovery SE7
It would be interesting to know your patch work on this issue.

Also make sure you torque the bolts in the right order, working from the center out, so that the pressure is distributed evenly.

I really don't even like condoning it, but it does work.

I just get a metallic head gasket sealer (one with metal looking flakes in it) and a new thermostat. The non-metallic ones like Blue Devil don't work as well. I remove enough fluid from the overflow to allow me to pour the entire bottle of head gasket sealer into the tank. Run the engine until it warms up, then turn on the heater and fan. Let it run for about ten minutes, then shut it down. Let the car cool down to outside temperature. Then I let the car run again with the heater on until it reaches normal temperature. Then I run it at about 2500 rpm for a couple minutes and then let it idle for another ten minutes. Then I let it cool until dead cold, or even better, for about 12 hours. Then I remove the thermostat and flush out the system using water and then air. Replace the thermostat, then refill the system with coolant.

If that gasket seal is left in the cooling system, it will clog up the thermostat and cause a severe overheat problem, so I just replace the thermostat. Letting the car cool is so it has time to cure, and running it again is so that it can finish sealing any large leaks, and then letting it cool again allows it to cure again, so it's not quite as damaging, but that stuff can form chunks and eventually break off and clog the thermostat again latter on down the road (never saw it happen, but I know it could).

I had a Discovery that was positive for exhaust in the cooling system, the person didn't want to take the engine apart, so I used the liquid sealant. The next day, the test came back clean and the truck didn't overheat again so far as I know (I checked back like two months later). Even though it can work, I know what it can make the inside of an engine look like, and I know it could possibly do more harm if not done right, so I don't like to condone it.

This is surely an interesting input to solve the problem. I will keep this as my last resort.
Thank you very much for your input. I will keep everyone updated as I progress.

I am in the process of taking apart the heads, but I am not there yet.
I was taking off the bolts from the lower manifold, bolt #12 had already snapped, I dont know how; that is the exact location where the coolant port from the head to the lower manifold get a tight seal and there was lot of coolant internaly leaking
into the engine. I would appreciate before I proceed any further to remove the heads, your input as to whether this could be a reason for coolant leaking into the engine, building up pressure in the coolant system. I greatly appreciat your input because I dont want to take apart the heads if that is the case.

When you looked at it, you found that it was already snapped, or you tried to remove it and it snapped?

If it was already broken, that could be the cause of the loss of coolant. You may need to remove the head in order to get the bolt out anyway. It's a good idea to remove the head really, that way you will know if the loose bolt caused the gasket to crack (due to the lack of support).