I was at the shop 2 days ago to get my y-pipe changed. I got my truck back and now when it is in gear I hear a grinding noise quite regularly. Everything was find before I took it to the shop and my tranny, diffs, and transfer case fluids were changed a few months ago.

I am trying to figure out if they messed something up, because I need to call them and complain if so. This was not an issue prior. I would guess its something to do with the driveshaft as it only happens in gear.

Ideas?

 

Hard to say. Feared noise source is the front prop shaft. But was it just disturbed by nearby work, or damaged by prying, etc.? The oem shaft is a rotating time bomb, with sealed grease fittings at one end. Grease gets cooked out by CATs, slow traffic just makes it happen sooner.

If it is anything to do with front prop shaft, and while you are driving it can decide to split. When it splits the shaft tries to thrash a hole in transmission, about $7000 at some dealers.

Shaft may have been pushed against when work was done, and changed the tension ever so slightly on what it was used to.

I'd take this as a warning from the Rover gods that your shaft needs to be inspected, rebuilt or replaced. Rebuild article in our tech area.

As for damage by shop, that would require marks on the shaft, dents, etc. Most likely you shaft just decided to act up when it smelled the after shave of a mechanic, and was ignored by the wrench wizard.

If you don't feel comfortable making the inspection, I'd suggest a tow truck to a shop, unless it is very nearby and you can drive very very slowly. If same shop that did the Y pipe would do the shaft work then even better.

 

when it goes... take the car out at night, throw a torn up chunk of car tire in the road, put on your hazards and call your insurance company *wink*

 

Oh man.. I am not happy about this. How much do you think it would cost to maybe rebuild or replace with a rebuilt one? I am on limited funds right now after a hectic few months, and would like my truck not to blow up right now.

 

rebuild less than $100.00, replace less than $300.

 

Or if you can lock CDL by lever or spud on the transfer case, and remove shaft. That will confirm diagnosis, and you can drive 2wd until repairs can be scheduled. Of course to rebuild you'll have shaft out anyway and can drive on rear shaft to confirm there is not another problem.

 

How can I do this? Is that what that lever in my truck is for? I am looking to get it replaced, but if I can toss a switch and use RWD for a few weeks till I get a shaft I would be happy.

 

what year?

 

Depends on the year. Earlier D2s did not have a locking CDL lever, just high/low. But several years had the spud on top of the transfer case that could be engaged with a small wrench. See 34 and 35 in attached drawing.

 

1999..