About to complete this Audio Install that I feel like I have been working MONTHS on.

I am about to hook up a JBL MS8 Sound Processor/Amplifier and will be putting it where the stock power amp was. I need to identify at that harness the speaker outputs from the radio and to the speakers and the remote turn on.

I noticed that the amp I pulled out was a Lear HIPO L25.

The RAVE Electrical Diagrams pdf only show one amplifier for the High Line system and that the front door Mid and A Pillar Tweeter are connected to one channel (I'm guessing with a passive crossover located somewhere).

The RAVE Electrical Circuits pdf shows a High Line with either a Harman or Lear Amplifer. If you have a Harman then the front door Mid and A Pillar Tweeter are connected to one channel but with the Lear that a wire comes back to the amp from each and is connected to its own channel. Also, the RAVE manual is not clear as to which is + or -

The RAVE Workshop Manual pdf only mentions a power amplifier and gives no specifics as to pinouts of the connector or anything else.

So questions:

Does the Lear amplifier push the Front door Mids and A-piller tweeters on two separate channels?
When looking at the RAVE manual, how do you know which wire is which?

 

I've played with my DII H/K system on and off a few times and read through the RAVE diagrams enough out of curiosity (while browsing the forums for many years) to know with a fair amount of certainty that no one will be able to answer your question lol!

Seriously though, you already sound like you know your $hit and are on the right track.

Having said that, I've got a decent amount of experience with a lot of funky high-line audio systems in various cars and there is hardly ever an advantage to driving a similarly-located tweeter with its own channel and wires, they almost always (as you mentioned) are driven off of / from either a low freq. or mid (depending on 2-way or 3-way) speaker directly, with the installation of a high-pass crossover on one speaker or the other.

Before you know it you've got 8+ extra wires back to the amp just for 4 extra speakers which don't even have independent input channels in the first place.

I've never seen the main amp harness on my LR3 yet, but with 14-independent channels I can see why they had to use a fiber bus to eliminate wires elsewhere!!!

Good luck with the install, and let me know how it turns out. My H/K system sounded great initially (with 2 10s in the back) but I fear the amp and/or speakers are really starting to age and it pushes mids really hard, just super hollow sounding and annoying.

 

I trolled through the forums and did a lot of reading trying to figure out what you are to no avail. I ended up saying f*** it and rewiring the whole speaker system including dedicated amp for the speakers, amp for the 12" in the back, I added speakers to the main rear pillars, and changing the head unit. 8 ga power and grounds along with 16 ga speaker wire run through the whole truck. The only thing I'd change if I had it to do again is to run the wires over the head liner instead of along the edges of the floor in black tubing since I couldn't get the floor trim up without shattering it.

 

i got some great diagrams of the 03 alpine high end system at Crutchfield, told me what each wire on all the plugs were by color, number and picture. it also included the plug in on the amp.

 

Did you keep the 3-way system design in the front? That's the only thing holding me back right now, as designing a well-tuned-3-way 4-channel system is incredibly complicated and expensive.. so many wires/crossovers and crap!

 

click on the link below, then check on bottom of the page to get link for your year and stereo.


2003-2004 Land Rover Discovery with Alpine Wiring Information

 

And the diagrams from Crutchfield turned out to be correct?

 

I'm hoping they are separate channels. My plan is to go three way active in the front.

I am putting a Peerless 6.5 in the bottom of each front door, then will mess with the crosses to see if it will match the factory mid and tweets. If not, I got a set of scanspeak tweets ready to go, but have no idea what I would do with the factory mid. Not alot of room right there unless I build a pod. I already pretty much did that for the 6.5

 

The crap we'll do for our daughters!

 

the wires i checked were correct. I only checked the steering wheel control wires, since i had to hook up gray/red to swi-rc, and the gray/black to ground. Since others on here have used the metro 70-1786, and it was plug and play, i wasnt checking all the wires. By the way, after building my complete OEM to Pioneer AVH4000NEX harness, plugged in and programmed the steering control module, and the response code while programming did just as instructions said. I will know better when i plug the unit in. Still working on the 2-din fascia build.