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- - How to Bypass immobiliser? (https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/how-bypass-immobiliser-43303/)

How to Bypass immobiliser?

Does anyone know how to do this? I have a 99 D2 with 130K on it. I think it is really a heat related issue when it does this. I have onloy had it happen and not want to turn over when it is hot outside. All the normal key fob tricks are not working. Oh, I have a new battery as well.

Thanks,

I'm not sure but, I think there is a write up about this in the "write-ups and how-to" section. Give a look around on this forum, it may have been covered already. If not I'm sure someone can help you out. Good Luck!

Or am I thinking of a DI issue that is similar???

I just went through a heat related "won't turn over when hot" - it was the soleniod on the starter. And the starter is a PITA to swap out.

As for alarm lock out of the starter, on a D1 it is a fairly simple bypass inside the dash. Just did a post on it within a few days ago. D2 is probably more complex, but a little RAVEing research should help.

Quote:

Originally Posted by handsome rob (Post 264867)

is the LED "on" or "flashing" on the dash while it won't start? If not, it's probably not immobilized, it's probably something else. You could also verify if you are getting power to the starter solenoid when trying to crank.

Have you tried the EKA code of 1515? I was able to use that on my 99 D2 to disable the alarm after replacing a couple of computers.

Quote:

The code is recorded on the security information card and is entered as follows:

Using the key, turn the driver's door lock to the UNLOCK position and hold in this position for at least 5 seconds. An audible warning is then emitted to indicate that the body control unit is ready to accept the code. Return the key to the centre position. It is now possible to use the key to enter the separate numerical values of the four digits that make up the EKA code.
Enter the first digit of the code. If the first digit is 4, turn the key to the UNLOCK position 4 times. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.
Enter the second digit of the code. If the second digit is 3, turn the key to the LOCK position 3 times. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.
Enter the third digit of the code. If the third digit is 2, turn the key to the UNLOCK position twice. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.
Enter the fourth digit of the code. If the fourth digit is 1, turn the key to the LOCK position once. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.
Finally, turn the key to the UNLOCK position and back to the centre position, a double bleep will indicate that the code has been entered correctly. A single bleep indicates that the code has been entered incorrectly.

Then, before opening the door, wait 5 minutes for the alarm and immobiliser to be de-activated. During the 5 minute wait for the alarm and immobiliser to be de-activated, the alarm indicator LED in the instrument pack continues to flash (one flash every 2 seconds). DO NOT OPEN THE DOOR OR ATTEMPT TO ENTER THE CAR until the full delay period has elapsed.

When the 5 minute wait has elapsed, the alarm indicator LED stops flashing. Immediately open the door, insert the key in the ignition switch and turn the switch to position II. If the ignition switch is not turned to position II within 30 seconds of the end of the 5 minute wait, the engine is automatically immobilised again.

The EKA code will not be recognised if there is an interval of 10 seconds or more between key turns or if the key is held turned for 5 seconds or more during the procedure.

In some system configurations a successful EKA code entry is indicated by the audible warning device pulsing twice for a period of 50 ms on, 200 ms off. The theft deterrent LED is switched on for 1 second, all doors unlock, the alarm disarms and the vehicle is remobilised allowing the engine to start.

If an incorrect code is entered, an audible warning is emitted and the procedure must be repeated. Up to a maximum of 10 attempts to enter the code is possible. After 10 attempts, the BCU will not allow any further codes to be entered for a period of 10 minutes.

This is the time of year for starter failure. I just had to put one in my minivan. I think I may have parked it a little too close to the Rover and it caught the bad starter disease from the truck.:rolleyes:

I thought for certain it was the immobiliser but now I do not think so. I am thinking the starter for a couple of reasons, one is that battery is new but ut is getting slower to turn over. The starter is probably going to be affected by heat more than the immobiliser as well. I was able to unlock the doors just fine and the alarm seemed to be working properly since I set it off a couple times trying to see if it would reset somehow.

I went back tonight where I left the truck and it started right up. I guess I will order a starter as a proactive measure anyways. I have had to put very little into my D2 so a few hundred here and there is nothing to sweat about.

Thanks for all the help guys.

Yeah, sounds like a good idea, and not too expensive to replace. When ours just went the other day my wife had stopped at a gas station and then got back in and it wouldn't do anything at all. No clicking or anything. Also, no warning at all. It just stopped working, then when I got out of work I got a ride to where the van was and it started right up. It then worked for the rest of the night and then all morning before developing the same problem again by noon-time. I was immediately sure it was the starter in that though because it has no way to immobilise itself. I suppose it can be a bit more of a guessing game in a vehicle with the capability to immobilise itself and some models of the same truck having problems with it in the past!

After replacing my starter [slow to start, no start when hot], wonder if a side of the road get moving again method might be to open the hood, let it cool off, and maybe carefully pour or squirt water down on to the starter (avoiding the exhaust manifold, which will be also very hot). Some drag strip racers (no radiators) will put ice on top of things to cool down between runs. This time of year you should have an iced drink on hand anyway.

Mine has not been so much of an issue of it being hot when I shut it off and then try to start again but more of an outside temperature heat as well. It has been turning over slower lately and so I did the battery thinking it was just about time eventhough the voltage was good. My P38 has weird issues in the summer that go away with the winter. I will replace it and see what happens and then update everyone.

Thanks for al the help.