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How many times should the fan clutch spin before it comes off?

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  #11  
Old 05-25-2013, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by flanker6
VICTORRYYYYYY! Finally got that thing off!
I was going to say 3 licks to get to the center, but since you've already got 'er done..
 
  #12  
Old 05-25-2013, 10:12 PM
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Nice Job!
 
  #13  
Old 05-26-2013, 12:13 AM
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While you are in that area, belt tensioner and idler pulleys may be worth replacing. Belt tensioner is easy to source at most auto parts stores. The two idler pulleys can have just the bearings replaced pretty easy and cheap. I like to use the better SKF brand USA made bearings, and I found some on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6302-RS-SKF-...90418021426%26

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6304-RS-SKF-...item35c3c5b50b

You can remove the bearings by removing the pulley bolt with a box-end wrench and hammer to do the tapping again, or if the fan it out you can use a socket on at breaking bar with the hammer, or extended piece of pipe on the breaking bar to increase leverage, then removing from engine mount, and them you simply remove the snap ring, and you can put the pulley in a vice thin side vertical and use a socket beside it that lines up with part of the bearing face, and use the vice as a press. Two spacers on the other side outside the bearing diameter will allow room for the bearing to be "pressed out". The other method is to use something as a spacer on the bottom of the pulley laid flat on a very firm surface, like a concrete floor, and use the socket in the same manner using a hammer to use the socket as a drive pin of sorts to drive the bearing out, like described in this link. http://www.performanceprobe.com/foru...ad.php?t=45283

Once out, use your preferred method to drive or press the bearing back in and replace snap ring and you are back in business. New snap ring is up to you. Snap ring pliers kit is pretty cheap if you do not have one already. Good item to add to you garage tools.
 

Last edited by Rover_Hokie; 05-26-2013 at 10:17 AM.
  #14  
Old 05-26-2013, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Rover_Hokie
While you are in that area, belt tensioner and idler pulleys may be worth replacing. Belt tensioner is easy to source at most auto parts stores. The two idler pulleys can have just the bearings replaced pretty easy and cheap. I like to use the better SKF brand USA made bearings, and I found some on ebay.

6302 RS SKF Brand Bearing 6302 2RS1 15x42x13 New | eBay

6304 RS SKF Brand Bearing 6304 2RS1 20x52x15 6304 2RS New | eBay

You can remove the bearings by removing the pulley bolt and removing from engine mount, and them it by simply remove the snap ring, you can put the pulley in a vice thin side vertical and a socket beside it that lines up with part of the bearing face, and use the vice as a press. Two spacers on the other side outside the bearing diameter will allow room for the bearing to be "pressed out". The other method is to use something as a spacer on the bottom of the pulley laid flat on a very firm surface, like a concrete floor, and use the socket in the same manner using a hammer to use the socket as a drive pin of sorts to drive the bearing out, like described in this link. how to: upgrade serpentine pulley bearings - Performance Probe Forum

Once out, use your preferred method to drive or press the bearing back in and replace snap ring and you are back in business. New snap ring is up to you. Snap ring pliers kit is pretty cheap if you do not have one already. Good item to add to you garage tools.
Thanks Hoke,

I'll grab a tensioner today, but will probably save the rest for another weekend. This weekend's goal is just to replace the waterpump and the viscous clutch.... Halfway home.
 
  #15  
Old 05-26-2013, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by flanker6
Thanks Hoke,

I'll grab a tensioner today, but will probably save the rest for another weekend. This weekend's goal is just to replace the waterpump and the viscous clutch.... Halfway home.
on second thought, I'll save the $140 and take my chances for a month.
 
  #16  
Old 05-26-2013, 10:24 AM
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Advance Auto has them for $42.99 in the Dayco brand Part# 89287. If you go to their web page and order it from a store that has it in stock, no shipping, and the Advance Auto in NE Kansas City on Barry Rd has one in stock. By using the web page you can get 20% off and a coupon for $50 on your next order, and have it ready at the store when you get there. The other option is to have it shipped to your house, and if you add a few more items to get to $75 you can get that shipping free. This is a Dayco belt tensioner, which is a good name brand and what I used 2 yrs ago now with no issues. O'reilly's also carrier it in a Gates brand for $55 Part# 38245.
 

Last edited by Rover_Hokie; 05-26-2013 at 10:34 AM.
  #17  
Old 05-26-2013, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Rover_Hokie
Advance Auto has them for $42.99. If you go to their web page and order it from a store that has it in stock, no shipping, and the Advance Auto in NE Kansas City on Barry Rd has one in stock. By using the web page you can get 20% off and a coupon for $50 on your next order, and have it ready at the store when you get there. The other option is to have it shipped to your house, and if you add a few more items to get to $75 you can get that shipping free. This is a Dayco belt tensioner, which is a good name brand and what I used 2 yrs ago now with no issues.
Sweet man! much appreciated.
 
  #18  
Old 05-26-2013, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Rover_Hokie
While you are in that area, belt tensioner and idler pulleys may be worth replacing. Belt tensioner is easy to source at most auto parts stores. The two idler pulleys can have just the bearings replaced pretty easy and cheap. I like to use the better SKF brand USA made bearings, and I found some on ebay.

6302 RS SKF Brand Bearing 6302 2RS1 15x42x13 New | eBay

6304 RS SKF Brand Bearing 6304 2RS1 20x52x15 6304 2RS New | eBay

You can remove the bearings by removing the pulley bolt with a box-end wrench and hammer to do the tapping again, or if the fan it out you can use a socket on at breaking bar with the hammer, or extended piece of pipe on the breaking bar to increase leverage, then removing from engine mount, and them you simply remove the snap ring, and you can put the pulley in a vice thin side vertical and use a socket beside it that lines up with part of the bearing face, and use the vice as a press. Two spacers on the other side outside the bearing diameter will allow room for the bearing to be "pressed out". The other method is to use something as a spacer on the bottom of the pulley laid flat on a very firm surface, like a concrete floor, and use the socket in the same manner using a hammer to use the socket as a drive pin of sorts to drive the bearing out, like described in this link. how to: upgrade serpentine pulley bearings - Performance Probe Forum

Once out, use your preferred method to drive or press the bearing back in and replace snap ring and you are back in business. New snap ring is up to you. Snap ring pliers kit is pretty cheap if you do not have one already. Good item to add to you garage tools.
Question for you. How difficult should it be to remove the serpentine belt? My tensioner is hardly budging.

Following this video (See 3:53 mark) and am getting nowhere. I weigh around 220 lbs, and the tensioner is all but stuck.

 
  #19  
Old 05-26-2013, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by flanker6
Question for you. How difficult should it be to remove the serpentine belt? My tensioner is hardly budging.

Following this video (See 3:53 mark) and am getting nowhere. I weigh around 220 lbs, and the tensioner is all but stuck.

Range Rover - How To Replace Water Pump P1 - YouTube
I got it off.. Probably just stuck from not being started for so long.
 
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