How to remove D2 Radiator Sticky
#1
02-19-2013, 07:21 PM
How to remove D2 Radiator Sticky
Having just removed the D2 radiator - here is how to do it.
Hopefully this will go to a sticky.
Firstly!!
It is easier to remove the radiator as intended by Rover on the D2 as a unit - with the oil cooler and transmission cooler attached to the radiator.
Theory:
How is the radiator held in?
1) it has two rubber prongs on the bottom which stick in the frame.
2) it has two pegs about 3/4 the way up which go into holders. The pegs hold the radiator assy to the truck via specialized mounts. You goal is to get these mounts out.
The screws for the mounts are behind the FOAM which is behind the HORNS on left and right sides.
So, first you do the usual.
1) Remove plastic shroud on top of radiator - 4 quick lock screws.
2) Remove fan with large crescent wrench and a hammer. Whack it to the LEFT with the wrench facing UP at 12 oclock.
and more
3) remove the plastic shroud behind the radiator. This means taking out #3 phillips screws on top of the radiator and lifting it out.
4) pull off the little hose on the right top.
5) pull off the large rad hose right top.
6) pull off the lower rad hose lower right. This will dump a lot of antifreeze.
7) Take off the wire from the sensor on the lower right. This means pressing IN on the wire clip - maybe with a Phillips screw driver from the side and pulling the plug off carefully.
8) Take off the transmission cooler temp wire. This is at the top left and is near the top of the radiator. It is on a clip held in by a 10mm nut.
9) Take off the transmission cooler lines. Push collar back and pull of the lines. This is hard. Be careful and force nothing. Vice grips on the metal part of the lines may help - but don't let the vice grips bite into the metal. If the lines are not rusted, they will come off. One hand pulling back collar. Other hand pulling off the hose. Once all 4 hoses for trans cooler and oil cooler are disconnected then you are done with this part.
And now - to get the actual mechanisms holding the radiator in place off.
Objective - get off 4 fasteners - two per side.
Objective - get horns out and get behind foam to get 10mm nuts out.
How?
1) Take out each turn signal light - left and right.
2) Remove grille by removing lower trim pieces above bumper. Long Phillips to reach
the screw for the trim piece thru wheel arch opening. Look thru where the turn signal light was.
3) Remove grille. There are three plastic screws on top. Remove those. Remove the little plastic keepers. Grill now comes off.
4) Remove horns with 13mm socket on the one 13mm bolt. Pry metal to the side to get horn out.
5) move foam DOWN to find 10mm bolt. Remove the bolt.
6) Remove the collar from the radiator stay.
7) Now on each side there are two more 10mm bolts holding on two more stays or mounts. Use a #3 screw driver bit or a 10 mm socket to get these out. The 4th bolt on the left side facing the rover needs a 10mm wrench.
8) remove these stays from the radiator.
9) carefully pull up and wiggle the radiator side to side. It should break free from the rubber mounts on the bottom.
10) Lift out the radiator assy.
Prepare the new radiator
1) Put the new radiator and the old one on the ground - one above the other.
2) Remove the two 10mm bolts at the top.
3) Remove two #3 Phillips screws on each side which hold on the plastic wind deflectors on left and right sides.
4) Pull the plastic assys on left and right sides FORWARD or OUTWARDS the same direction the screws come out. These are in a little track on the bottom and come right out.
5) Now see remaining screws. One left and one right which hold on the oil cooler and the transmission coolers respectively. Remove these screws and then remove the oil and transmission coolers from the tabs.
6) Pull the rubber strip off of the bottom of the radiator.
Assembly.
1) Fit the oil cooler into the tab on the new radiator. Put in the #3 screw.
2) Fit the trans cooler into the tab on the new radiator. Put in the #3 screw.
3) Slip on the plastic assy into the grove on the bottom.
4) secure plastic assy with (2) #3 Phillips screws on each side. Taking note of putting the wind directional plastic directors on each side as they were.
5) Pull the retaining nuts out of the old radiator.
6) Put the retraining nuts into the new radiator.
7) Put the 10mm screws into the top of the radiator assy. Note the electrical clip on the left side of the radiator that goes UNDER the 10mm screw.
8) Note the trans sensor wire. Make sure it is routed neatly up the plastic assy to the metal retainer which goes UNDER the 10mm bolt.
9) Put the rubber strip on the bottom of the new radiator.
8) Remove the sensor from the lower right of the old radiator.
9) Remove the white plug from the new radiator. Remove the rubber seal.
10) Note the rubber seal and the steel ring from the sensor on the old radiator. Reuse them if in good condition and screw in the sensor to the new radiator.
Putting radiator assy back into the rover.
1) Mind the wires! Make sure you know where the wires go and keep the wires out of the way.
2) Lift the new radiator assy into the Rover. Get the rubber pegs into the holes.
3) Connect the plug to the bottom right sensor.
4) Put on the bottom rad hose.
5) connect the trans cooler sensor to the wire at the top of the left side of the radiator to the dangling connector.
6) Put on the bottom cooler connecting hoses to the bottom cooler. Easy does it. When the hoses snap on - make SURE YOU CAN'T PULL THEM BACK OFF!! With a gentle pull.
7) Put on the upper cooler hoses. Same thing - make sure they don't pull off. Don't touch the loosening collars in these steps!
8) Put on the top rad hose.
9) Now put on the holding collars. Each collar is special made for left or right and not interchangeable. You'll figure it out. Use a long extension and a 10mm socket to get the bolt into the retaining collar whilst holding the foam down.
10) Put on the other collars that hold the evap. These have the two 10mm bolts each per collar.
11) Pull the rubber strip off of the top of the old radiator and put it onto the new radiator.
12) Put the lower fan cowling back on. These take two #3 bolts that go into the top sides of your nice new radiator..
12a) Now route the little black thin hose across the front of the radiator. Put that hose on the right side onto the little nipple provided using a small clamp. Not too tight! Make sure this hose is routed with the grooves provided in the top rad shroud cover.
13) put the fan back in. Spin it on clockwise.
14) Put the horns back in left and right with 13 mm nuts. Leave the star washer on the horn side.
15) Put on the grille. a Phillips on either side and the top plastic Phillips.
16) Put on the plastic decorative left and right plastic pieces. Long Phillips thru the wheel well.
17) Put the left and right turn signals back in.
18) Put the main radiator cover back on with the 4 captive screws.
check for loose tools and extra screws..
DONE!
Fill the system with 50/50 and bleed it.
Hopefully this will go to a sticky.
Firstly!!
It is easier to remove the radiator as intended by Rover on the D2 as a unit - with the oil cooler and transmission cooler attached to the radiator.
Theory:
How is the radiator held in?
1) it has two rubber prongs on the bottom which stick in the frame.
2) it has two pegs about 3/4 the way up which go into holders. The pegs hold the radiator assy to the truck via specialized mounts. You goal is to get these mounts out.
The screws for the mounts are behind the FOAM which is behind the HORNS on left and right sides.
So, first you do the usual.
1) Remove plastic shroud on top of radiator - 4 quick lock screws.
2) Remove fan with large crescent wrench and a hammer. Whack it to the LEFT with the wrench facing UP at 12 oclock.
and more
3) remove the plastic shroud behind the radiator. This means taking out #3 phillips screws on top of the radiator and lifting it out.
4) pull off the little hose on the right top.
5) pull off the large rad hose right top.
6) pull off the lower rad hose lower right. This will dump a lot of antifreeze.
7) Take off the wire from the sensor on the lower right. This means pressing IN on the wire clip - maybe with a Phillips screw driver from the side and pulling the plug off carefully.
8) Take off the transmission cooler temp wire. This is at the top left and is near the top of the radiator. It is on a clip held in by a 10mm nut.
9) Take off the transmission cooler lines. Push collar back and pull of the lines. This is hard. Be careful and force nothing. Vice grips on the metal part of the lines may help - but don't let the vice grips bite into the metal. If the lines are not rusted, they will come off. One hand pulling back collar. Other hand pulling off the hose. Once all 4 hoses for trans cooler and oil cooler are disconnected then you are done with this part.
And now - to get the actual mechanisms holding the radiator in place off.
Objective - get off 4 fasteners - two per side.
Objective - get horns out and get behind foam to get 10mm nuts out.
How?
1) Take out each turn signal light - left and right.
2) Remove grille by removing lower trim pieces above bumper. Long Phillips to reach
the screw for the trim piece thru wheel arch opening. Look thru where the turn signal light was.
3) Remove grille. There are three plastic screws on top. Remove those. Remove the little plastic keepers. Grill now comes off.
4) Remove horns with 13mm socket on the one 13mm bolt. Pry metal to the side to get horn out.
5) move foam DOWN to find 10mm bolt. Remove the bolt.
6) Remove the collar from the radiator stay.
7) Now on each side there are two more 10mm bolts holding on two more stays or mounts. Use a #3 screw driver bit or a 10 mm socket to get these out. The 4th bolt on the left side facing the rover needs a 10mm wrench.
8) remove these stays from the radiator.
9) carefully pull up and wiggle the radiator side to side. It should break free from the rubber mounts on the bottom.
10) Lift out the radiator assy.
Prepare the new radiator
1) Put the new radiator and the old one on the ground - one above the other.
2) Remove the two 10mm bolts at the top.
3) Remove two #3 Phillips screws on each side which hold on the plastic wind deflectors on left and right sides.
4) Pull the plastic assys on left and right sides FORWARD or OUTWARDS the same direction the screws come out. These are in a little track on the bottom and come right out.
5) Now see remaining screws. One left and one right which hold on the oil cooler and the transmission coolers respectively. Remove these screws and then remove the oil and transmission coolers from the tabs.
6) Pull the rubber strip off of the bottom of the radiator.
Assembly.
1) Fit the oil cooler into the tab on the new radiator. Put in the #3 screw.
2) Fit the trans cooler into the tab on the new radiator. Put in the #3 screw.
3) Slip on the plastic assy into the grove on the bottom.
4) secure plastic assy with (2) #3 Phillips screws on each side. Taking note of putting the wind directional plastic directors on each side as they were.
5) Pull the retaining nuts out of the old radiator.
6) Put the retraining nuts into the new radiator.
7) Put the 10mm screws into the top of the radiator assy. Note the electrical clip on the left side of the radiator that goes UNDER the 10mm screw.
8) Note the trans sensor wire. Make sure it is routed neatly up the plastic assy to the metal retainer which goes UNDER the 10mm bolt.
9) Put the rubber strip on the bottom of the new radiator.
8) Remove the sensor from the lower right of the old radiator.
9) Remove the white plug from the new radiator. Remove the rubber seal.
10) Note the rubber seal and the steel ring from the sensor on the old radiator. Reuse them if in good condition and screw in the sensor to the new radiator.
Putting radiator assy back into the rover.
1) Mind the wires! Make sure you know where the wires go and keep the wires out of the way.
2) Lift the new radiator assy into the Rover. Get the rubber pegs into the holes.
3) Connect the plug to the bottom right sensor.
4) Put on the bottom rad hose.
5) connect the trans cooler sensor to the wire at the top of the left side of the radiator to the dangling connector.
6) Put on the bottom cooler connecting hoses to the bottom cooler. Easy does it. When the hoses snap on - make SURE YOU CAN'T PULL THEM BACK OFF!! With a gentle pull.
7) Put on the upper cooler hoses. Same thing - make sure they don't pull off. Don't touch the loosening collars in these steps!
8) Put on the top rad hose.
9) Now put on the holding collars. Each collar is special made for left or right and not interchangeable. You'll figure it out. Use a long extension and a 10mm socket to get the bolt into the retaining collar whilst holding the foam down.
10) Put on the other collars that hold the evap. These have the two 10mm bolts each per collar.
11) Pull the rubber strip off of the top of the old radiator and put it onto the new radiator.
12) Put the lower fan cowling back on. These take two #3 bolts that go into the top sides of your nice new radiator..
12a) Now route the little black thin hose across the front of the radiator. Put that hose on the right side onto the little nipple provided using a small clamp. Not too tight! Make sure this hose is routed with the grooves provided in the top rad shroud cover.
13) put the fan back in. Spin it on clockwise.
14) Put the horns back in left and right with 13 mm nuts. Leave the star washer on the horn side.
15) Put on the grille. a Phillips on either side and the top plastic Phillips.
16) Put on the plastic decorative left and right plastic pieces. Long Phillips thru the wheel well.
17) Put the left and right turn signals back in.
18) Put the main radiator cover back on with the 4 captive screws.
check for loose tools and extra screws..
DONE!
Fill the system with 50/50 and bleed it.
#7
02-20-2013, 04:21 PM
#8
02-20-2013, 05:17 PM
TReK
#9
02-20-2013, 06:25 PM
Problem is -
There are all these conflicting ways of people saying to remove it.
Some are trying to leave the coolers in.
That is just very hard.
If you are trying to leave in the coolers -
you need to take IT ALL APART and remove the
airbox and the battery box.
NOT WORTH IT.
I agree - one hour if you read the guide I printed up.
If reading the RAVE or a board with conflicting information and opinions - good luck.
To remove the whole assy with coolers -
grill must come off.
Horns must come out.
two mount collars per side MUST be removed.
One mount attaches the radiator and coolers to the front assy cross member of the truck.
Other mount or collar holds the A/C to the cross member.
Removing at all in the truck is messy messy and hard.
Remove it all as an assembly.
This is not terribly clear in the RAVE.
Fear not the quick disconnects.
Use the force.
There are all these conflicting ways of people saying to remove it.
Some are trying to leave the coolers in.
That is just very hard.
If you are trying to leave in the coolers -
you need to take IT ALL APART and remove the
airbox and the battery box.
NOT WORTH IT.
I agree - one hour if you read the guide I printed up.
If reading the RAVE or a board with conflicting information and opinions - good luck.
To remove the whole assy with coolers -
grill must come off.
Horns must come out.
two mount collars per side MUST be removed.
One mount attaches the radiator and coolers to the front assy cross member of the truck.
Other mount or collar holds the A/C to the cross member.
Removing at all in the truck is messy messy and hard.
Remove it all as an assembly.
This is not terribly clear in the RAVE.
Fear not the quick disconnects.
Use the force.
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