'04 D2 won't start - Ordered 2 Ultra-Gauges!!
#1
'04 D2 won't start - Ordered 2 Ultra-Gauges!!
I've been wanting to get them for a while now, but have yet to pull the trigger due to other expenses. Well, the wife calls me at lunch today and says her D2 won't start. The engine would turn over, but wouldn't ever fire up. She left it in the parking lot, went back about 4 hrs later and it started up fine. I had her take it to the local autoparts store to have the codes read. I also told her to get a copy of them.
Well, Advanced Auto couldn't read 2 of the codes (so she says) and the other 3 weren't related to the car not starting. She took it to a Midas shop and had him read the codes... He didn't give her the readouts either, just explained some of them. UGH! I told her I wanted the codes!! She's not very good at listening. So, I've been looking into what this could be... I've read that it could be the crankshaft sensor (got the RAVE printouts on it and a write up on how to change it), fuel pump (hopefully not), maybe a bad spark somewhere, etc... but without the codes, I have no idea. So, I ordered 2 Ultra-Gauges just now... one for her truck, one for mine. Now, at least I'll have the codes to look up whenever something comes up. Hopefully I can figure out why her car wouldn't start. It's an '04 w/115k miles.
Well, Advanced Auto couldn't read 2 of the codes (so she says) and the other 3 weren't related to the car not starting. She took it to a Midas shop and had him read the codes... He didn't give her the readouts either, just explained some of them. UGH! I told her I wanted the codes!! She's not very good at listening. So, I've been looking into what this could be... I've read that it could be the crankshaft sensor (got the RAVE printouts on it and a write up on how to change it), fuel pump (hopefully not), maybe a bad spark somewhere, etc... but without the codes, I have no idea. So, I ordered 2 Ultra-Gauges just now... one for her truck, one for mine. Now, at least I'll have the codes to look up whenever something comes up. Hopefully I can figure out why her car wouldn't start. It's an '04 w/115k miles.
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Yes, the wife has the '04 D2. So far, the truck hasn't had the hiccup again. Apparently it did the same thing once before on my sis-in-law right after she bought it (We bought it from her when she upgraded to the LR3). The truck wouldn't start with a quick turn of the key, but a little hesitation (half second or so) in the "on" position and it fired right up. Same scenario both times. My wife has already started the truck numerous times today with no problems. It hasn't been too warm here... mid 70's so far and temps are dropping fast. 76 yesterday for a high, freeze warning for tonight and rest of the weekend. Oklahoma weather is crazy... as the saying goes, "if you don't like the weather, wait 2 minutes and it'll change again". Our only constant is the July/August heat that is usually in the 100's w/ 60-70% humidity. UGH!
Mike, I'm going to read the codes this evening and see what they are. A co-worker is letting me use his reader to check them and clear them out. I even tried it out on mine ('99) and found out that I apparently need new O2 sensors. Got 3 codes for those at lunch today.
Mike, I'm going to read the codes this evening and see what they are. A co-worker is letting me use his reader to check them and clear them out. I even tried it out on mine ('99) and found out that I apparently need new O2 sensors. Got 3 codes for those at lunch today.
#7
OK ---
So two things.
You have a wife.
She will expect perfection from a less than perfect 9 year old car.
This is the same expectation plied onto me.
Beyond that..
I believe..
Sometimes the cooperation between modules in the Rover are suspect.
If the Body Control Module is not informed of "permission to start" then
the key crank will not affect the starter..
I am *GUESSING* on this one.
Our Discovery I does exactly THIS SAME thing.
Once and a while - you turn the key to start - does not start.
And, you need to go to OFF and then start it again.
I get a lot of grief when that happens. But, it does not happen often.
What I do hear is "The rover is too old.. Is falling apart. Is not dependable"
And add some adjectives here which will get the BEEP BEEP on TV and you get the idea.
As long as the 2nd try does get it crank - or the third try you are fine.
This can happen once a month or every few months.
So two things.
You have a wife.
She will expect perfection from a less than perfect 9 year old car.
This is the same expectation plied onto me.
Beyond that..
I believe..
Sometimes the cooperation between modules in the Rover are suspect.
If the Body Control Module is not informed of "permission to start" then
the key crank will not affect the starter..
I am *GUESSING* on this one.
Our Discovery I does exactly THIS SAME thing.
Once and a while - you turn the key to start - does not start.
And, you need to go to OFF and then start it again.
I get a lot of grief when that happens. But, it does not happen often.
What I do hear is "The rover is too old.. Is falling apart. Is not dependable"
And add some adjectives here which will get the BEEP BEEP on TV and you get the idea.
As long as the 2nd try does get it crank - or the third try you are fine.
This can happen once a month or every few months.
#8
Thanks jfall, I know exactly what you mean.
Ok Mike, here are the codes I got from the wife's truck...
P1412
P1415
P0327
P0455
P0441
I've done some research to figure out what they are, I think. Looks like the first 2 are SAI issues. The third is the knock sensor. Fourth is an emissions leak (maybe gas cap, but it's already been replaced before). Fifth is the purge valve?
Now, the SAI issue... where is that located? When we start the truck, cold start, we here a pump running. It almost sounds like a air pump. It will run for about 60 seconds, then shut off. After researching the 1412 & 1415 codes, this sounds like it may be it. Maybe I need a solenoid? I'm not sure.
Knock sensor... I told the wife to start using 91 octane gas... she's never put in there before, but I told her to start using it this morning and that's the reason this code came up. I know there may be other reasons or causes, but it'll be the easiest/cheaper fix or test to see if that code comes back.
Emissions leak... not sure where to start with this one. Gas cap was replaced before we got it. I'm sure there are a TON of other places to look. Don't really have the time to look with a fine tooth comb.
Purge valve... How do I check if it's bad? I saw a post about just making sure the valves are secured with hose clamps. I'll look at that. Do I just replace the purge valve itself? I saw a few posts when I did a google search on it, that some people have replaced it with a valve bought off of amazon or used a Hyundai purge valve and it was the same valve, but a LOT cheaper than getting it from AB or the Dealer. Thoughts?
Thanks for the replies thus far!!
Ok Mike, here are the codes I got from the wife's truck...
P1412
P1415
P0327
P0455
P0441
I've done some research to figure out what they are, I think. Looks like the first 2 are SAI issues. The third is the knock sensor. Fourth is an emissions leak (maybe gas cap, but it's already been replaced before). Fifth is the purge valve?
Now, the SAI issue... where is that located? When we start the truck, cold start, we here a pump running. It almost sounds like a air pump. It will run for about 60 seconds, then shut off. After researching the 1412 & 1415 codes, this sounds like it may be it. Maybe I need a solenoid? I'm not sure.
Knock sensor... I told the wife to start using 91 octane gas... she's never put in there before, but I told her to start using it this morning and that's the reason this code came up. I know there may be other reasons or causes, but it'll be the easiest/cheaper fix or test to see if that code comes back.
Emissions leak... not sure where to start with this one. Gas cap was replaced before we got it. I'm sure there are a TON of other places to look. Don't really have the time to look with a fine tooth comb.
Purge valve... How do I check if it's bad? I saw a post about just making sure the valves are secured with hose clamps. I'll look at that. Do I just replace the purge valve itself? I saw a few posts when I did a google search on it, that some people have replaced it with a valve bought off of amazon or used a Hyundai purge valve and it was the same valve, but a LOT cheaper than getting it from AB or the Dealer. Thoughts?
Thanks for the replies thus far!!
#9
Sai pump is located under hood passenger side fender and firewall corner. its a black plastic housing. It has a filter you need to check that is a bad thing if you don't hear that noise on start up.
You are correct it needs to run on premium fuel and not doing so can cause problems.
Leak. Its hard to say where it is it could be anywhere you will have to start looking them over.
Definitely check all clamps on valve hoses and i have never used the Hyundai purge valve cant comment on it sorry.
You are correct it needs to run on premium fuel and not doing so can cause problems.
Leak. Its hard to say where it is it could be anywhere you will have to start looking them over.
Definitely check all clamps on valve hoses and i have never used the Hyundai purge valve cant comment on it sorry.
Last edited by lr2001silver; 10-26-2012 at 10:46 AM.
#10
Time to down load a free copy of the Rave CD so you can read up on the testing procedures for those codes.
As for the knock sensor, that is the only code showing that could cause a start issue especially on a poorly maintained engine and regular gas.
Might want to let your wife ride a bike for a while so she remembers to follow directions.
As for the knock sensor, that is the only code showing that could cause a start issue especially on a poorly maintained engine and regular gas.
Might want to let your wife ride a bike for a while so she remembers to follow directions.