Long story short, the guys at Kowalsky Machine in Rustburg/Lynchburg Va are total idiots.
I've reported them to the Better Business Beura, for the screw ups they did to this block.
I brought them my block and crank, to hone the cylinders, polish the crank, and knock out/install new cam bearings and freeze plugs.
The cam bearings and freeze plugs I could have done myself, but since it was there anyway, hey, why not?
I'll just address one issue here.
That they did not put any sealant on the freeze plugs, and 4 of them leak! The engine never ran either, just from filling the system with coolant.
Best of all...one of the leaking plugs is on the back of the block. Not only does it not have any sealant, but the dumbass who put them in, put a big knick in the side of the sealing surface.
Look at the 6 o'clock position. See that flat punch mark, the one that looks like there's a hole in the sealing surface of the block, yeah, that IS a hole.
All from stupidity.
Now, I can't decide how and if this can be properly fixed.
And if it leaks again, yep, out comes the engine.
I have had nothing but problems with this D2, and cannot fathom throwing more money at it.
I have no confidence in this engine block now either.
I am ready to throw in the towel and walk away.
Sell it for parts, and there's a small fortune in new stuff on it, about $7k in parts.
I have considered several ways to fix the block around the freeze plug too. Possible tig weld and file to JB Weld.
But I want a solid repair, which is where I have my doubts.
What would you do?
Anyone interested in a project?
Make me an offer.
And yes, I'm not done with the machine shop either.

 

I would pop the freeze plug out see the extent of the damage to the surface. If just out there at the lip sealent and new freeze plug. A little damage smooth and fill with JB weld putty then resmooth followed by sealent and freeze plug.

 

 

lol, thanks man.
I don't know, as I know nothing about tig welding, especially on cast instead of forged.
I don't know how well it would stick.

 

That visible hole must go straight through, as there was a steady drip of coolant for days after having the engine on the stand. The only thing that stopped it was the coolant level dropped below the freeze plug.
The other 3 plugs leaking are on the sides of the block, and are still leaking, as I haven't removed the threaded plugs on each side to drain the block yet.
I don't have any motivation to work on it right now.

This ^ was supposed to quote Army Rover's post on the extent of the damage.

 

Looks like they pried the old freeze plug out, causing block damage. Usually, you take a punch or chisel and hit the lower edge of the inside of cup (not the outer lip), until it basically slips in at the bottom and pops out at the top, eye-liding them (so, they look like an eye lid closing partially), then grab it with some visegrips and pull it the rest of the way out.

I'd knock all of them out, lightly sand each bore...just to clean up any burrs...so becareful not to enlarge the bore, buy a new set of freeze plugs and reinstall with a light coat of prematex ultra gray sealant. Personally, although the angle of your picture isn't the best, that freeze plug doesn't look seated deep enough to me. Usually, you'll have a good 1/16, maybe even an 1/8 inch bore showing once installed.

This is totally do-able by you, just take your time and buy a couple extras...incase things go bad on one. You're too close to throw in the towel now.

Brian.

 

Thanks man, I can get them in and out, and wish I'de done them myself to start with.
Obviously I won't know until I remove it, but it leaked badly out of that hole knocked in it.

 

I'd trust ultra gray...if l was doing it, totally...it's the best in my opinion...especially of aluminum engine parts. Trust me, l've used it on areas of diesel engines that are ten times harder to get at again, if it were to leak, with total confidence. If you've ever pulled the front gear drive cover off the front of a Maxforce/#garbage/DT diesel engine...you'd know how much trust l have in ultra gray...because...it is a total basta*d of a job. Aluminum grows and sinks a lot during heat cycles...and this product stays somewhat soft to allow for this expansion and contraction.

​​​​​​​ Brian.

 

Right on, thank you sir!

 

Exactly.

My freeze plugs were JB welded I discovered when I pulled out my 4.6. Knocked them out, installed new freeze plugs, then I JB welded them across their entire outer (visible) surface just like I had found them because the old ones didn't leak.

My daughter's been driving on my rebuild for 7,000 miles with no problems. The JB Weld might be able to seal the hole on its own, so really there is a double seal on each freeze plug hole. JB Weld only has 22 PSI strength, so it would break and allow the freeze plug to pop out to save the block if there ever was a harsh freeze.

Tig welding won't allow that!