Hi
I have a D2 2003 4.6HSE with 92k miles on it.

Like most owners, I have had ongoing issues but have maintained the vehicle.

For the past 2 months, I have noticed a ticking noise from the engine. Nothing too loud but easily noticeable.

It does not occur when the engine is cold and after driving it for 20 mins, there is still sometimes no noise but it comes and goes mostly when driven for longer periods. Then the noise is always there.

I have had sythetic oil put in the last service 3k miles ago.

I was thinking to change the oil for a more thicker mineral oil for the mileage its done, maybe Castrol GTX. Bear in mind i live in a very hot climate most of the year.

Any provisional pointers on what the problem may be or where to start?

Thx

 

Have a manual oil pressure test done. The oil light switch triggers at about 7 PSI, but the spec for operation at 2000 rpm (warm) is 50 PSI.

A 5W40 syn oil is rated to 120 F, there is also an approved spec for use of 5W50 and 10W60. Should not be using any oil at xW30, that use is only for temps under 90F.

One problem that the oil PSI test will detect is the cracked oil pump. It can make enough PSI to satisfy the switch, but not produce nearly enough pressure to make the 50 PSI you want. The moving chucks of the pump make the "tick" sound. The tick can also occur from other sources, like the Secondary Air Injection pump (you might not have one fitted), and the flex plate that couples the engine to the transmission.

But the possibility of the oil pump running at reduced power is the bigger problem, in my opinion.

 

Put regular oil in it and have the oil preasure tested, dont worry about anything else untill you have the results.

 

Check the purge valve, they like to tick and it's intermittent.

 

Thanks guys for the comeback.

I will do a oil pressure test and post the results.

Where would i locate the purge valve?

 

My intermittent tick went away after I replaced the SAI pump.

I ran the SAI pump till it threw a code but it was in the process of failing for probably six months prior, symptom being increasing bearing noise on cold startups.

Get some Rotella in your truck.

 

The SAI pump is electric, and has a plug on the pump that can be disconnected for testing. Normally it runs for only a minute or less, usually at cold startup. Here's pix of it , and the purge valve (which also has a plug). Keep in mind that unplugging these may set a trouble code you will have to clear.

 

Update :

I took it to the garage. They did not have the tools to check the oil pressure but after checking the engine, they say the ticking is 100% tappets. They said it wasn't the oil pump because that would affect all the tappets and they would all tick. Right now, they say it's only one of the tappets.

They said it's not the purge valve.

I will try and get it to a garage who CAN do an oil test. How easy is it to do and where do they attach the oil pressure gauge?

Any thoughts on the above diagnosis?

Thx

 

Update :

I cannot get Rotella oil here.

I mentioned changing to a heavier grade oil but the garage said that by putting heavier oil in, if the oil pump WAS weak, it would have to work much harder and may cause issues.

Is there any other brand of oil that anyone can recommend?

Cheers!

 

A second opinion is desired. The test is done by removing the pressure switch, screwing in a gauge that can read up to say 80 PSI, and cranking the engine. At idle, warm, should be above 10 PSI. At 2000 rpm, warm, should be 50 PSI. Many autoparts stores loan (you might not have such places in your area) kits with various adapters to fit a variety of engines. Don't have to buy the made for Rover test kit.

Some would suggest an oil flush to perhaps free gunk from the tappet, might have success. Some would point out that labor to remove intake, and valley pan to get at tappets would point toward doing more than just one of them. In the dark ages, we listened to the valve cover to see which one was loudest (with a stick or long screw driver pressed to our ear). We opened the valve cover and ran engine with cover off ( a little messy) while pressing down on the various valves springs, to isolate the trouble maker. Remember, before there were diagnostic palm carried computers the mechanics used their hands and their heads (and a lot of spare parts) - but things got fixed.

Pages attached for oil pump test and background on tappets. Tappets are somewhat unhappy with sludge and varnish in the oil.

BTW, shop tellling you they don't have the tools may be shopspeak for "please take this to someone else". They may be trying to do you a favor.