The dIi lives agian. Is running with good oil pressure agian. 50-55 at high rpm and 15psi at hot idle.

Congratulations

SUSVMAN - did you end up replacing all the cam bearings or just the walked one? Which bearing(s) did you buy?

Do you have any idea how long you bearing had been "walked" before you replaced it? I am at 82k (on a 2004) with my walked bearing (looks similar to yours with the notch from the lifter). I am trying to figure out how critical it is that I fix this. Based on what I have seen on this forum, I would bet that this walked bearing is a common problem that many people may not realize that they have.

every time the lifter go by the bearing its knocking more metal filling into your oil, kind of critical.

I have no idea how long but suspect it was a long time. I bought the truck recently w 204k on it. Lots of commuter miles. It had the dreaded hot idle tick as well but its now gone! If your oil light is now coming on I would replace it. It comes on when psi drops below 6psi which is very low. There was no wear on the lifter amazingly. I reused it and only changed out the one bad bearing. It was the second from the back. I bought a complete set so I have all of the others bearing if yours is not the same one that walked They are all different in size slightly. I can sell you my tool I made as well possibly or machine you one for your specific bearing.

There was no damage to the cam so there was plenty of oil keeping it lubed. When the bearing finally walked far enough to expose the entire oil passage port that's when I lost pressure < 6psi. There was no gauge on the truck before this happened so who knows what the pressure was like in the past or what it looked like when it was new. I think the notch wore into the bearing over a long time and any metal particles would get picked up by the filter. Before discovering this I had replaced the oil pump, rod bearings and main bearings and there was no damaged from particles that I recall only normal wear you would expect from a rig with this many miles.

I replaced the head gaskets as well and didn't see any signs of a slipped liner. So the hot idle tick had to be coming the the cam bearing/lifter or the fact that the oil pressure was so low that a lifter wasn't staying pump up do to low oil pressure.

I hope this helps.
Mel

SUSVMAN -- yes, your post is extremely helpful and gives me hope that I may be able to tackle this repair myself.

Details about my issue are outlined in post #49 and a pic in post #62 of this thread. In short, I had flickering oil light at hot idle, replaced oil pump gears (they were cracked) and main rod bearings. No change in oil light coming on until I replaced the oil sensor. I haven't had a oil light on since then (about 4 months). However, looking at the pic in post #62, you can see that my bearing has walked far enough out that the entire oil hole is exposed in the bearing.

My problem bearing is the same as yours, second from the back. I may be interested in buying your tool from you. I'll send you a PM and we can discuss it further there.

I am due for a head gasket job too, which I have been putting off until I could get this cam bearing issue resolved.

I have a Moab trip planned this weekend - fortunately, it is only 200 miles away for me. I have been trying to figure out if I should take my Disco in it's current condition or if I should drive another vehicle and rent a Jeep when I get there. Based on your comments above, I think I will drive the Disco, but not do any trails that are too far off of the pavement.

I suppose you'll be ok as long as your not doing much idling driving to the event. I drove mine 350 miles from Valdez back home when the light came on arriving there last fall. It made it back ok. I'm surprised your's isn't coming on now. I'll bet it's boarder line. I put a manual gauge on the truck so I could see what the pressure was doing. Before the fix the pressure would be high at rpm but as soon as it dropped to idle the pressure would plummet quickly instead of dropping slowly.

The job is a major PIA but very doable without pulling the engine. Worst part is pulling everything off the front so you have room to pull the cam out which entailed draining the AC system. Not a big deal, just had to have it recharged when I was done. Also remove the left head ground strap from the firewall not from the head itself unless you hook it up to the head before you reinstall it. You need a good 1/2 U-joint adaptor to get the back head bolt off, as well as and a long extension. Rover engineers are mechanics that's for sure.

Oh No! don't say that! haha when I bought mine it had like 20 codes! lol Ive done allot but most was just factory maintenance at minimum.. fortunately it was just cruded up, o2 sensors and this and that and water pump and new this and that and fans and this and more and more but now its purring nice for a few years ! and now you tell me its the red and blue ones!?? NNNNOOOOoooo :eek: actually I put a black hood on is so maybe I'm ok! WHEW! hahaha