Yeah I realize I should have done the crank first! Hopefully I will get rained out at work today, that would give me an extra few hours to work. I've been taking pictures, tried to post up a few, but I have to resize them first. I will work on that too!

if you are going to replace the belt (i hope so) wrap the old belt around the pully a couple times and clamp it on there with vise grips.
You should then be able to hook the other end of the belt to something under the truck to hold it tight.
This is how i got mine off, that is why I know breaking the crank bolt is the first time you want to do "NOW".

We all learn from our mistakes, some learn from other peoples mistakes.

Any tips on getting oilpan out of there, my crossmember ain't coming off...I've got it jacked up pretty high, but it won't come out???

you need to go up high enough to get the weight off of the suspension. then drop it and turn it a little to the side to clear the pickup

I got the pan out, I'm now trying to get it put back together...Having trouble lining up oil pump gears on crank when I put the cover back in place. Any tips?

It should just slide on through. I don't remember having an issue with the oil pump gears when I rebuilt my 3.9L DI. I don't think its different on a 4.6L.

Well, I got it on...I just was frustrated and not paying attention to the keyways!, DUH! It went right on, but my gasket slipped and I didn't notice it. When I rocked the cover forward to see what was going on, somehow I ripped the corner off my gasket. I only ordered one (rookie mistake). All progress was lost. I went the nearest dealership, said they had one, I got there and they couldn't find it. So I went to the next dealership down in Dallas. They had 5, but at $20 each I just got one and took better care of it. After a 4 hour runaround with the gasket and stopping to eat some tacos, I just got it on. No problems this time.

your getting closer

After that last post I went back out to work on the pan, should have went to bed. I got the pan on and the back corner of my gasket popped out of its seat (the tab/nipple thing) so of course everything went pretty smooth except bolts 10,14 had a gasket in the way! Frustrated, I took it off gently and spent the next 2 hours removing the RTV. FUN. Cleaned everything and went to bed. This morning I got it to go on correctly. Now I'm having a problem lining up the pan on to the bellhousing, specifically on the drivers side where those trans cooler? lines are. The 2 on the other side went in just fine, treads are not jacked up either? RAVE talks about a special tool that bolts up back there, but it is not very clear on what it does or how it what to do with it. Suggestions?

Thanks, pwaltrip

If you are using coolant -
And, the coolant is not going into the ground.
If the coolant is leaking from the intake manifold at the head gasket junction and going into the "V" and onto the oil - not good.
You don't seem to have that.

If you are getting antifreeze into a cylinder and then the CAT converter for that bank is ingesting it. Unfortunately, you get a code down the road saying "Catalyst efficiency bank 1 or 2" is below threshold.
And, then you are needing to replace the cats as they come as a pair.
So, best to get this corrected ASAP.

You don't have misfire codes.

You could put in a bottle of Barr's Leaks and see if that plugs the leak.
I use it in our Discovery I without fail.
Have had Barr's Leaks in the Discovery I for a few years now.
It does not use antifreeze now - since I did the head gaskets,
and added Barr's Leaks.

Well, the antifreeze did get into the cylinders - probably #7 and #8 and wiped out the CATs.

So, I had to replace those too.
Cross fingers - now 30,000 miles later - no codes. NO cat problems.

I did have a coolant expansion tank leak - split at the seam.
That got really bad.

In all of Seattle, no dealers carry a Discovery I coolant tank.
Always need to order.

I was worried about a blown head gasket again making pressure in the cooling system.