2003 Disco II, 65,000 miles. Started overheating with coolant smell from tailpipe -

So finally got the heads off, the two rear bolts were tough, and the M/F at land rover who decided to put a long bolt on rear of the left side head to hold a wire connector should be killed. Near impossible to get it out and the head can't come off with it attached. Coolant in left rear cylinder. Will be taking heads to a shop tomorrow to get them checked and a valve job.

Anyway, I checked the AB kit I bought and there are several small blue plastic spring cups and o-rings. I am guessing they are for a rebuild of the lower manifold, maybe the fuel system? Is this needed and what part of the Rave CD is it under?

Also, had a lot of oil leakage on the front of the engine. The valve covers did leak some, but is there anywhere else on the front of the engine that could be leaking oil that I should check while it is apart?

Some bolts were pretty loose. When I re-assemble, should I use high temp loctite for most stuff and/or does anything need anti-sieze?

Planing on replacing the thermostat also. When I'm done, is it best to fill coolant, run for a while, then do an oil change to get out whatever got in the engine during the work?

Thanks

 

Extra parts are mainly if you were rebuilding the heads. Yes use loctite except on the head bolts, those get oil. I ran the truck for a couple days with the fresh conventional oil and a fram then dumped it and put in good synthetic oil and a good oil filter.

 

I feel for ya ...as i have a long list of MF's i would love to deal with.... Check your oil hose's up front as well as your "Front Cover" ..where you have the dreaded oil pump that seems to fail on a certain vin range of 03 DII's. besides that , i would throw some holy water on it and cross your fingers...

 

have the vin range and what to look for?

 

__________________

 

I posted this a few weeks back. you should read...

Liner failures in Land Rover V8 engines - what's happening?

by j e robison service co » Mon Apr 19, 2010 5:23 am
Land Rover Discovery II overheating engine failure is getting more and more common around here. The "traditional explanation" is that the liners shift within the block and somehow combustion gases get into the coolant. In the early days I know that was true because I saw 1990s engines where the liners dropped slightly into the block. However, LR supposedly fixed that issue, yet the failures continued. In fact, the engines in the last Discovery II models seem to fail at a higher rate than the 1990s models.

I have also seen liner movement blamed for engine noises. Is that accurate?

We recently cut a 2003 Land Rover Discovery engine in half to determine why it failed from overheating. Are the "slipped liners" real or not? I have the writeup and pictures on my car blog at:


http://robisonservice.blogspot.com/2...bout-land.html

http://robisonservice.blogspot.com liners ... scroll down to article

 

Any extended wararnty coverage for the bad oil pump issue or are you out of luck if it's past warranty?

 

You are SOOL.. One of your so called MF's at LR made sure of that...Think of these as kind of like Nasa's space shuttel's...even with all the technological advances...all the Fu**7cking idiots at LR...oops i ment engineers...yea right....You have a 1 in 100 chance your POS will have a catostrophic failure ...along with a long list of other items you will loose sleep over. The day you come to grip's with the fact , that you own a big POS, you will sleep much better... and remember , you are the idiot who bought one after hearing all the horror stories on these foruns... I did ..........I am a big Fu%^king idiot

You need a big sense of humor to own one of these...It's like have a 16 yr old teenager...You love them...but most of the time you just want to kill them...

 

Don't want to beat them up too badly - it's been a good vehicle up to now!!

When I bring it in to get the heads tested, should I have them do a valve job and do they need all the extras (o rings, blue cups, etc) in the head gasket kit to do it? What exactly is a "valve job?"

How do I know if I need to use the o rings/ blue cups in the kit? Is it someting you do yourself or only if you get the valves done?

 

You shouldnt need a valve job for another 100,000 miles...Mike on the forum was a LR service manager and would know best. Try valve job, marvel mystery oil...

A valve job is removing the cylinder head(s) from the engine so the valves, guides and seats can be refurbished to restore compression and oil control.

I would put my money on top hat liners....