My 4.0 V8 Overhaul/Rebuild Thread - MY2002 107k
#11
Quick update.. still in dismantling and cleaning phase.
- took apart the rocker shafts, cleaned them. Plan on keeping the supports, bolts, and washers as long as they're still in spec on the new shafts. Still need to source rocker arms. I'm thinking turner engineering or v8tuner, both in UK.
- Cleaned the timing cover, oil pickup, oil cooler hose. Permatex gasket remover and purple power are the winners here. Heck, the gasket remover stuff is so good, I use it for hard to remove varnish as well.
- Took a stab at sandpaper-wheeling the exhaust manifolds with a dremel. Kind of works... but I burned through all my wheels really fast. Wish I had a better tool for this. Would like to get it sand blasted and ceramic painted in a furnace.. but on a budget. I also have Loctite Rust Naval jelly ... hmm didn't seem to do much. I think sand paper is going to be the only thing that works here
- box of old parts on their way out
- y-pipe is super rusted. The flange especially. Don't know what I'm going to do here yet. At a minimum it needs new studs and nuts. Magnaflows or whatever would be cool... but Im thinking lets get this rover running again first
Next up... pulling the block. It's ready to pull, need a hoist. I can rent a hoist for $34/day or buy the harbor freight one for $180 and sell it when done for ~$100. $34x2 for renting (not factoring if I have issues putting it back in and need it longer)... for piece of mind I think I'll buy the HF hoist and work at my leisure.
Following the block pull, I'll be spending a lot of time inspecting everything, measuring tolerances, etc as per the rave overhaul manual.
- took apart the rocker shafts, cleaned them. Plan on keeping the supports, bolts, and washers as long as they're still in spec on the new shafts. Still need to source rocker arms. I'm thinking turner engineering or v8tuner, both in UK.
- Cleaned the timing cover, oil pickup, oil cooler hose. Permatex gasket remover and purple power are the winners here. Heck, the gasket remover stuff is so good, I use it for hard to remove varnish as well.
- Took a stab at sandpaper-wheeling the exhaust manifolds with a dremel. Kind of works... but I burned through all my wheels really fast. Wish I had a better tool for this. Would like to get it sand blasted and ceramic painted in a furnace.. but on a budget. I also have Loctite Rust Naval jelly ... hmm didn't seem to do much. I think sand paper is going to be the only thing that works here
- box of old parts on their way out
- y-pipe is super rusted. The flange especially. Don't know what I'm going to do here yet. At a minimum it needs new studs and nuts. Magnaflows or whatever would be cool... but Im thinking lets get this rover running again first
Next up... pulling the block. It's ready to pull, need a hoist. I can rent a hoist for $34/day or buy the harbor freight one for $180 and sell it when done for ~$100. $34x2 for renting (not factoring if I have issues putting it back in and need it longer)... for piece of mind I think I'll buy the HF hoist and work at my leisure.
Following the block pull, I'll be spending a lot of time inspecting everything, measuring tolerances, etc as per the rave overhaul manual.
#12
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Jeff Blake (07-31-2016)
#13
Pulled out the engine harness (will need to redo some loom, some sections crumbled in my hands). Engine is now 100% ready to pull. Ordered a hoist from Harbor Freight for $135 + 6$ shipping.
Engine stand came today... was missing the lock pins for the wheels Oh wait... the pins from the old rocker shafts worked perfect! Ha.
I'm considering ordering a micrometer and dial bore gauge to take all the measurements myself and save on shop work. Same with valve springs & seals - thinking I might do this myself. Resell the tools after. Any opinion on this? It doesn't look like rocket science to me. I like to have my hands on everything. This way - assuming everything is in spec - I can limit shop work to installing the cam bearings, and maybe a crank polish if needed. If valves need grinding, cylinder needs boring, decks surfaced, crank turned.. etc.. then yeah that goes to the shop.
Engine stand came today... was missing the lock pins for the wheels Oh wait... the pins from the old rocker shafts worked perfect! Ha.
I'm considering ordering a micrometer and dial bore gauge to take all the measurements myself and save on shop work. Same with valve springs & seals - thinking I might do this myself. Resell the tools after. Any opinion on this? It doesn't look like rocket science to me. I like to have my hands on everything. This way - assuming everything is in spec - I can limit shop work to installing the cam bearings, and maybe a crank polish if needed. If valves need grinding, cylinder needs boring, decks surfaced, crank turned.. etc.. then yeah that goes to the shop.
Last edited by Jeff Blake; 07-31-2016 at 11:16 PM.
#14
I'm considering ordering a micrometer and dial bore gauge to take all the measurements myself and save on shop work. Same with valve springs & seals - thinking I might do this myself. Resell the tools after. Any opinion on this? It doesn't look like rocket science to me. I like to have my hands on everything. This way - assuming everything is in spec - I can limit shop work to installing the cam bearings, and maybe a crank polish if needed. If valves need grinding, cylinder needs boring, decks surfaced, crank turned.. etc.. then yeah that goes to the shop.
#16
#17
I'm considering getting a stud puller like the one you guys linked. Do they damage the threads? I was planning on replacing some of the goofy studs on the intake manifold with bolts, but there are others I would like to pull and I wonder if I will be able to reuse the studs.
#19
Top hats would break the bank. And I don't think this block has ever overheated.
re stud puller - the threads actually looked good - but I wouldn't reuse them. I took off the intake manifold studs as well months ago.. but those come off easily with vice grips. Picked up bolts from the hardware store.
Atlantic British says the grooves in the cam bearings is by design for better oil flow. Hmm. I'm going to take these $155 bearings back anyway, and get a set from Turner Engineering in the UK for only $30... along with main, rod, and other stuff I'll need. I have a good feeling about Turner. I have no idea why the bearings in the states are all so much money.
Also thinking to get Turners performance H180 Camshaft Sports Torque. Wonder how it compares to a Crower?
re stud puller - the threads actually looked good - but I wouldn't reuse them. I took off the intake manifold studs as well months ago.. but those come off easily with vice grips. Picked up bolts from the hardware store.
Atlantic British says the grooves in the cam bearings is by design for better oil flow. Hmm. I'm going to take these $155 bearings back anyway, and get a set from Turner Engineering in the UK for only $30... along with main, rod, and other stuff I'll need. I have a good feeling about Turner. I have no idea why the bearings in the states are all so much money.
Also thinking to get Turners performance H180 Camshaft Sports Torque. Wonder how it compares to a Crower?
Last edited by Jeff Blake; 08-01-2016 at 11:53 AM.
#20