Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum - My Disco Will Not Start Please Help

Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum (https://landroverforums.com/forum/)

- Discovery II (https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/)

- - My Disco Will Not Start Please Help (https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/my-disco-will-not-start-please-help-48263/)

My Disco Will Not Start Please Help

Hi guys,
I've got a 2000 Disco it has 170k on it and blew a head gasket. It ran good except for a misfiring cylinder. The gasket blew out the side so it sounded like a big exhaust leak. As I started tearing the engine down I broke (2) head bolts trying to loosen them. Some one had put some sort of sealent on the bolts. Long story short, I ended up pulling the engine and taking it to the machine shop. They were able to extract the 2 broken bolts for me and while they had it they disassembled and rebuilt the engine. I put the engine back in and got everything buttoned back up and now it will not start. It spins over fine but is not getting any fuel. The fuel pump is not coming on when I turn the key. There is no pressure (or fuel) at the fuel rail. I have checked the fuel inertia switch and the fuel pump fuse. There are no codes to read. Anyone got any ideas?
Thanks
Jason

Alarm may not be happy you stole the engine. Red light on instrument cluster from RAVE):

The LED has a dedicated signal from the BCU to indicate the status of the following:

Alarm armed: The LED flashes at 10 Hz with a 50:50 duty cycle for 10 seconds, after which the LED flashes 50ms on, 2 seconds off until the state of the system changes.

Engine immobilised: If the engine is immobilised and the ignition is on, the LED is illuminated continuously. If the engine is immobilised and the ignition is off, the LED flashes 50 ms on, 2 seconds off.

Alarm tampered: If the alarm has been triggered, the LED flashes at 10 Hz with a 50:50 duty cycle.

Handset battery low indicator: If the handset battery is low, the driver's door is open and the ignition is switched off, the LED flashes two pulses of 50 ms on, 50 ms off, every 10 seconds.

May have to arm/disarm alarm several times in a row. Now if more problems,

Remove fuse 10 under hood, that is the fuel pump fuse. Put volt meter across open fuse socket prongs. Position meter where you can see it when turning on key. When key turned to crank, fuel pump should get voltage, but only for a couple of seconds. ECU controls fuel pump relay, inertia switch safety is in series with it. This is to give you an idea if volts are headed toward pump. Pump won't run unless meter is on amps, my pump draws like 5 amps.

If you get fuel pump volts for a few seconds, check for spark, either pull a lead or use one of those pocket testers. If no spark, consider crank shaft position sensor, which may have been moved or left unplugged. CKP makes no codes if fails when cranking. So if fuel pump times out before you can jump out and check, could easily be CKP.

Crank position sensor is not working, either it was installed wrong, not replaced or just plain old it went bad.

Thanks guys. I will check it out tonight and report back.
Thanks again.

Hey guys,
I just went outside and check the discovery. The security light is not flashing at all. I pulled the #10 fuse out for the fuel pump and checked the voltage while turn the key to the on position. I got no reading. So the fuel pump is not getting any juice. I rechecked the connection at the CPS and it looked good. So I guess the next step is to change out the crank position sensor?

Jason

Nope. The next thing is to find out why no volts to fuel pump.

A. When truck powers up from turning key, the main relay in underhood box energizes and powers up lots of engine sensors, etc. It also runs thru the inertia switch, and connects + power to the fuel pump relay. When the ECU calls for it, it supplies ground to the fuel pump relay and energizes pump for a few seconds if truck does not start and run. Wiring diagram atached.

B. Reset inertia switch by pressing on top.

C. Main relay is number 9 in fuse box under hood. Fuel pump is number 1. Should be label in top of box. You can pull fuel pump relay and bridge across contacts with a jumper for a few seconds and should hear it run.

D. Crank Position Sensor would only be indicated if fuel good and no spark.

The fuel pump will not get any voltage if the crank sensor has failed, so don't go replacing parts that won't help.

Thanks for the diagram, it really helped me understand better. I just got back in from trying to diagnose the Discovery. This is what I found.

The main breaker is getting power to it and seems fine (the IACV turns on).
The fuel pump relay is not sending a signal to to fuel pump. I ran a jumper wire from the fuel pump relay terminals and the fuel pump turned on. I switched out the fuel pump relay with another and still nothing.
I checked to see if it was getting fire and it is not.

Could the Crank Position Sensor be the culprit?

Thanks again guys.

Jason

Per RAVE:

The fuel pump is a 'self priming' wet type pump which is immersed in fuel in the tank. The fuel pump operates at all times when the ignition switch is in position II. If the engine is not started, the ECU will 'time-out' after 2 seconds and de-energise the fuel pump relay to protect the pump. The pump receives a feed from the battery via fuse 10 in the engine compartment fusebox and the fuel pump relay. The relay is energised by the ECM when the ignition switch is moved to position II.

So like Mike says, pump won't run for more than a couple of seconds if engine does not start.

If pump runs for a couple of seconds, check for spark. No spark, check CKP sensor.

The pump does not seem to come on at all when I turn it to the on position. It only came on when I jumped it.